3.0 Build Pictures

[RodneyBur]

I've finally got around to posting the pictures of my 3.0 build. I just wish I would have invested in a better camera. These shots are taken with a sony digital camcorder. It took me about 3-4 days to build and install it. I ran into a few problems such as a broken valve cover bolt and wrong size axles from advance. I also cannot seem to get it started, which has been a real nightmare. Due to the wiring issues when I got the car and switching to the SVT ECU, it is a real headche. The engine is 100% together and all components installed, I just don't have the updated pictures yet.

The engine specs are:

SVT UIM
SVT TB
SVT CAMS
SVT LIM w/ butterflies removed
SVT ECU RJL1
ST200 Valve Springs
AEM intake
Underdrive pulleys
Dual Mode Crank Dampner
Weapon R Headers
24# blue injectors
160 degree Tstat
Clevite Rod Bearings
Updated Oil Pan
Updated Pickup tube
Polished Timing Cover
Polished Valve Covers
Fidanza flywheel
SVT Clutch
Updated Shift forks
Updated Shift Tower
Torsen LSD
2 New Axles
Lots of other new parts
All Genuine Ford Gaskets

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This is how I got the car home just over a year ago. Long tow from Mass to Ohio.

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A shot of the car as it sat when I got it.

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MX-3 loaded down with parts. I had even more that couldn't fit in the car.

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All the parts laid out and ready to go on.

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[RodneyBur]

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Engine tore down with bearings installed.

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Timing set and marked.

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Set to the 2.5 mark.

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Engine assembled and ready to go in.

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[RodneyBur]

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True 24# blue injectors.

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30-40 hours of hand polishing.

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[RodneyBur]

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[RodneyBur]

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[RodneyBur]

Reserved2

[J-Man]

damn, that looks nice man!

[recliner15]

that is how you do things right! looks awesome man

[wadespencer99]

Wow...that polishing is amazing. Definetely one of the cleanest looking 3 liters I've seen so far. Nice work!

Now get it running!!!!

[muntus]

Please tell me you used hardened steel washers on your flywheel!

[fordrule]

thats one of the nicest looking 3L

did u use clear pint over to protect it?


what are u going to use to tune it? chip or xcal2 w/ prp

[fordrule]

did u get ur keys re-pats? since u are using the svt ecu

edit: sorry man i just rad ur post on ur problem with the wiring. sorry man.


good luck on getting her started....

[mond12345]

Very nice job, hope u get it running soon.

[RodneyBur]

thanks for the comments guys.


did u use clear pint over to protect it?

what are u going to use to tune it? chip or xcal2 w/ prp


I did not clear coat the polishing at all. I figured it would be better left bare in case I needed to "spruce" it up. I covered it with Mothers polish if it makes a difference.

I originally was planning on using an xcal chip with a dyno tune to remove the secondaries and do some other changes such as temp settings. At this point I just want to get this thing running.

Please tell me you used hardened steel washers on your flywheel!

I used the bolts that came off the 3.0 flex plate. I don't believe they had washers on them. Will this be a problem?

[FastCougar]

Once you have broken in the engine/clutch (500 miles), remove that POS FRAM filter and replace it with a Mobil1/K&N/Motorcraft filter (far superior)!

Also, the lack of washers on the aluminum lightweight flywheel will be an issue!

[mond12345]

Yeah i knew i forgot something in my post.... Nice 3L motor with a POS Fram filter!!! Y????

[FastCougar]

Also, the lack of washers on the aluminum lightweight flywheel will be an issue!Read Why (http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=164405&Forum=tranny&Words=Fidanza%20Washers&Match=And&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=164245&Search=true#Post164405)

[mond12345]

Read Why (http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=164405&Forum=tranny&Words=Fidanza%20Washers&Match=And&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=164245&Search=true#Post164405)

Great thread... but why is this the first time i have heard of anything like that? I have a Fidanza and SPEC 3 clutch for my 3L and im pretty sure my Fidanza flywheel came with no bolts or washers....

"Here is the info I got from Terry:

With the Fidanza flywheel, you get six new bolts with spring washers, these are to hold the clutch pressure plate TO the flywheel. You do NOT reuse the stock clutch bolts!

As for the actual flywheel mounting bolts Terry said that you have to mount the flywheel with thin washers under the bolts (between the bolt and the aluminum flywheel). The stock bolts for this are GOOD to reuse.

The reason behind using washer on the flywheel bolts is that the steel bolts can spall the aluminum as you toque them down, and without washers, what happens is that after a few miles you lose the preload on the bolts and the flywheel comes loose. VERY BAD!

The washers allow you to toque up the bolts without "grabbing" the aluminum on the flywheel. He also suggested using a litle bit of oil on the washers to aid in the slippage."

[RodneyBur]

I've never heard that before about the washers. It seems like a good idea and I guess I was in a hurry to get it in and didn't really think about it. Thats ok I was going to replace my clutch anyway, prob with a spec. Thanks for the heads up.

As for the fram and penzoil, I was using them just for the start up then I was going to change the oil after a dozen miles or so and then again after the break in. The only problem is that the start up time never came.

[FastCougar]

No, FRAM pretty much sucks: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html AND http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

[Blackcoog]

I've been running my Fidanza for years now without a single issue and I reused the stock bolts. I did put loctite on them though which was described in the manual. Terry always goes overboard. A 3L SVT I just picked up took him over a year to build and the transmission blew up shortly after he finished it. I have yet to dig into the car to find the problem though.

[FastCougar]

Well, I have only searched this issue in the context of the CDW-27 platform and that is what I found recommended. HOWEVER, I just did a google search and found an FAQ by ACT clutches and they recommend EITHER washers OR locktite. Using both is good insurance in my book and since they don't add much cost to the build, might as well :shrug:

[muntus]

Well, I have only searched this issue in the context of the CDW-27 platform and that is what I found recommended. HOWEVER, I just did a google search and found an FAQ by ACT clutches and they recommend EITHER washers OR locktite. Using both is good insurance in my book and since they don't add much cost to the build, might as well :shrug:

Best dollar twenty I've ever spent.:)

[spridget]

I followed the instructions provided with my Fidanza flywheel. I reused the stock bolts, no washers, just loctite, and torqued to spec. Two days of road racing, and 7000 miles later it's still ok..... not to say it's perfect, but I don't think the washers are required. The biggest fear is that the bolts will gall the aluminum and that aluminum expands more than steel when it gets hot. The weakend mating surface and added force may cause the bolts to snap.

Bottom line, do not overtorque and use loctite.

The washers Terry is refering to are very slim, small diameter, stainless, and high grade. Don't use Grade 8 washers you find at Home Depot. Check out McMaster-Carr for every fastener known to man.

[RodneyBur]

Wooot. Ford reprogramed the keys today and I was able to start it up. It ran fine but had idling issues caused from the removal of the secondary butterflies and using a stock ECU with 24# injectors and SVT intake and timing parts. If the idling rpms were set around 1500 it would idle perfectly. The car doesn't have any exhaust except headers and it was loud, but had a very nice grumble to it. I only ran it a few minutes but it was the best three minutes in a year planning and work.



:thumbsup:

[wadespencer99]

Glad to hear you got it running!! Congrats!

[fordrule]

WOOOT WOOOOTT welcome the the addiction.....

[Instigator]

congrats ive been there and its very satisfying knowing you did it yourself.

now go get it tuned!

[RodneyBur]

I definately getting a tune ASAP. I tried to take it around the block and it was nearly impossible since it was dying so much. I have to keep on the throttle to bring it up to about 1500 rpms or it dies. It didn't help that all I had is headers and it is loud as hell. Its running good considering I have no secondaries, 24# injectors and a stock ECU.

[FastCougar]

Sounds like it's running TOO rich and only after you get a good amount of air mixed in (1,500+ RPM) does she maintain idle/accelerate.

[RodneyBur]

yeah I knew I'd have some issues with the 24# injectors and no secondaries which is why I originally planned on using the SVT ECU but that fell through since the one I bought was incompatible (see other thread). I am still searching for a replacement SVT ECU that I can use and be able to actually drive it. I've also thought about buying another LIM and 19# injectors as a temporary solution to break it in before the dyno. I haven't decided yet since I am focusing on getting the exhaust on right now.

[mond12345]

Why run the #24 injectors anyway? Whats wrong with #19's? Do you really think you need the #24's?

[RodneyBur]

A couple of reasons why I ran 24#:
They are cheaper than the 19#. About half price.
Both require a tune any way with a stock ECU.
Both work well with an SVT ECU.
I wanted to run a 75 shot and would need them then.
Most of all I just wanted to have them.

It would of worked well if I had gotten the right SVT ECU.

[mond12345]

Ok i was just asking or wondering really. Cant wait for some dyno sheets.