fook me (flame on)

[doublebacker4l69]

Ok...fook me, so I've been woking on my engine for about 9 hours now...I finally broke down and rented a damn engine crane for $30 a day (rape), and pulled the 2.5 and have it separated from the tranny. I can't think of all the Q's I have, but the only one I can think of is how do you get the crank pulley off...pardon me for being assinine (check my spelling), but you need to take the crank pulley off to take the timing cover off, right? (prepared for flamage)

O yea, and to make a EGR tube for a 3.0 with 3.0 UIM/LIM and WR headers, you need to frankenstein the two EGR tubes together right?

O yea, and our cars come with sach's clutches stock?

[Instigator]

youll be aight man.

yes you have to remove the crank pulley. i have the tool.....ill let you have it for free, but you have to come down and get it :) one stipulation is if i ever need it again you gotta give it back.....hopefully i wont.

yes you need to unite the two egr's together.

dont know about the clutches :shrug:

[doublebacker4l69]

yes you have to remove the crank pulley. i have the tool.....ill let you have it for free, but you have to come down and get it :) one stipulation is if i ever need it again you gotta give it back.....hopefully i wont.

CRAP FCUK...I wanted to have the thing done by monday...atleast have the engine in the car, with nothing connected...because this damn $30 a day blows ass...where do you live bro? Hopefully only a foot walk away because I don't feel like driving my mom's jesus jeep. And is their anyway to get it off using something other than the "real" tool...?

[nadthomas]

I'm sure there is a way, but it will probably end up damaging something else. You can pick of the tool you need for about $15 at Autozone, or I beleive they may rent those out as well.

[Instigator]

i have an engine lift you can borrow too

you need a truck to carry it, but you are more than welcome to use it

im about 2 minutes from orlando speed world remember? :)

[doublebacker4l69]

ok...shizzle, I have come to another fcuk up, I can't get the crank pulley off from the 3.0, I asked blackcoog a while back, and he recommended just cutting it off with a sawzaw, will this work?

[doublebacker4l69]

check that: got it off, forgot the fukcer was left-hand thread...:banghead:

But on the pulse wheel, I am assuming you choose the notch that says 25-blah blah...and not the one that says 30-blah blah...right?

[Blackcoog]

correct

[doublebacker4l69]

crap...blackcoog, you do your 3.0 swaps without taking the heads off, correct? So how in the heck do you fit the top motor mount between the heads without taking them off, because I'm trying my hardest and I can't figure it out. Do I have to take my timing cover back off?

[Blackcoog]

Damn, dude did you do your research? If you haven't already, check the FAQ's on CEG as they cover things ours doesn't.

As far as that engine mount you need to cut the crap out of it to get it to fit. There are pictures I posted up a while ago of where to cut but basically it's cut and test, cut and test, etc until it fits.

I'm not sure why people think the swap is so easy. It's far from a direct bolt in. Make sure you have the right oil pan and timing covers swapped over if you didn't get an escape engine. Pulse wheel in the 2.5 spot as you stated above. All the intake connections are a pain in the butt. You'll probably be going with the 3L intakes right?

[doublebacker4l69]

Well I know the swap isn't easy, I've been reading since August of last year. The only problems that I have ran into were the ones that weren't covered thoroughly on this forum. Yes, I have the correct oil pan and timing cover, and yea I am using the 3.0 intakes. Thanks though, now I gotta whip out the...grinder? Is that the best tool to use on the mount?

[Blackcoog]

Yup, an angle grinder will be your best bet.

[doublebacker4l69]

o, and once again, flame on, but I noticed that when I went to put my flywheel on, that there is a steel ring that looks like it would limit how far the spline in my transmission would go through my clutch, and when I measured it out, it seems that it sticks out and extra half inch. I don't know what it is and it doesn't look like it can come out. I'm thinkin about grinding it down...any help is good. Thanks.

[RodneyBur]

yes you either have to have that flexplate bearing removed or grind it down.

You will also need to grind down a tab on the block and a tab on the head so that the alternator bracket will fit.

[fordrule]

i will post pics of the front tabs to remove from the front of the block, also there is anoher tab on the rear of the block if u want to install a svt oil cooler

[fordrule]

here is pics of the flexplate bushing on my 3l that i cut, i cut the bearing flush. i could have taken it to a machine shop to have them press it out. but i didin't

http://x12.putfile.com/11/32513035320.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6536/crankbushing16os.jpg

and here is the to ear tabs on the front of the engine to cut also

http://img450.imageshack.us/img450/5924/ears4yj.jpg
http://img450.imageshack.us/img450/302/earremove5em.jpg

any other questions?
i didn't use a svt oil cooler yet so i haven't cut the rear ear off yet. sorry man dont have a pic of the rear ear

[DanG]

Ummm... Glazed flywheel/clutch much? :ugh:

[DemonSVT]

Damn that flywheel is hot-spotted like a biotch...


...oh... What DanG said...

[fordrule]

thanks i know. i cleaned and scuffed it up again before the final install. that was 25k miles on that flywheel. a l ot of track time on it. i used to live down the road from the local 1/8 and 45 min from the 1/4

[doublebacker4l69]

Yea, I had my dad grind down the bearing...looks good. I'm so glad I have a dad that has 36 years as a welder under his belt helping me. Next is the EGR, and my dad says it should be cake.

[doublebacker4l69]

Well WTF mate...I'm not sure if this is an engineering flaw, or my supidity, but why on my W-R headers does the slot for my O2 sensor (the one next to my EGR tube) not have threading inside it? I'm kinda at a F it all point...so if I can get away with plugging my O2 sensor ports I'll do it. Which one's are neccessary to have?

Also, I have my driveway looking like a hillbilly sanctuary...so I accidently lost track of a bolt...does anyone know where the ground terminal from the battery attaches to? It's got the bolt still on it. For some reason I keep thinking its a bolt that connects the bell housing to the motor.

And for a comment, making that custon EGR tube sucked gonads.

Also, I am basically trying to get the motor into my car, then worry about my injector and fuel rail stuation...but these injectors would work, correct? I'm return style.

clicky (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Taurus-DOHC-Fuel-injection-line-with-injectors-B16_W0QQitemZ8028659617QQcategoryZ33553QQssPageNam eZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

And yes, I know they're #24, and yes I'm not gonna drive it until it's tuned.

[DanG]

Well WTF mate...I'm not sure if this is an engineering flaw, or my supidity, but why on my W-R headers does the slot for my O2 sensor (the one next to my EGR tube) not have threading inside it? I'm kinda at a F it all point...so if I can get away with plugging my O2 sensor ports I'll do it. Which one's are neccessary to have?

Weapon-cRap strikes again!!! :stupid: :loser:

You need to get the hole threaded- You need the oxygen sensors! You need all four of them until you get a tune that disables the downstream lower 2.

Also, I have my driveway looking like a hillbilly sanctuary...so I accidently lost track of a bolt...does anyone know where the ground terminal from the battery attaches to? It's got the bolt still on it. For some reason I keep thinking its a bolt that connects the bell housing to the motor.

You are correct. The main ground wire goes to the transaxle bolt second from the top to the left (front of the car).

And for a comment, making that custon EGR tube sucked gonads.

Weapon-cRap what??? :rolleyes:

Also, I am basically trying to get the motor into my car, then worry about my injector and fuel rail stuation...but these injectors would work, correct? I'm return style.

They look like the right style... Pic is blurry though, no close-up...

[doublebacker4l69]

You need to get the hole threaded- You need the oxygen sensors! You need all four of them until you get a tune that disables the downstream lower

I am assuming these are the two found on the Y-Pipe and at the bottem of the front header.


Weapon-cRap what??? :rolleyes:

lol...I hate my life

[spridget]

most had LuK clutches, some have Sachs.

And credit to the guy who sent me these pics a while back. They were very helpful. Thanks again!

[Blackcoog]

Hey those are my pictures. :)

[doublebacker4l69]

Yea, I forgot to post that I got the mount in...It was kinda tough, just finding all of the spots to grind down. But I finally got it to a point where it was almost in, and I tapped it with a rubber mallot and it fell right in.

But progress wise, the only thing I have left to put the motor into my car, is to figure out how to put that O2 sensor in my header. Me and my dad looked around everywhere to try and find a tap that would fit (I can't remember the exact size), but no one had it. So what I'm thinkin about doing is grinding down the threads on the sensor, and then mig tacking it in to the port. Only on like two sides, so that it wouldn't be impossible to take back out. Any other suggestions?

[doublebacker4l69]

Ok, I kinda need a quick reply...it would help alot. I am using the 3.0 UIM/LIM...but when it comes to the fuel rail, I do need to some how connect the fuel pressure regulator in the system, correct? I mean, it seems like common sense. But the only reason I ask is because, with the 3.0 UIM, I don't think that it has a vacuum tube for the fuel pressure regulator...and if it does, what color is it? Thanks.

[doublebacker4l69]

bump

[DanG]

If using the 3L fuel rail, you need to braize in the 2.5L fuel rail connections that go to your car's fuel hose(s). There's no direct hook-up! Silver braizing p3wns.

Also, you need to ensure you're using the correct injector type (return or returnless) depending on your car's fuel system and ECU, not to mention a chip saying that you're running larger injectors- 17#ers definitely won't cut it!

[Blackcoog]

Cut your rails up and make your new connections the same as your old one. Chop the ends off each and braize the correct one on. If you have a return car you need to make your own return line.

[doublebacker4l69]

Cut your rails up and make your new connections the same as your old one. Chop the ends off each and braize the correct one on. If you have a return car you need to make your own return line.

I've made my return line, and just worked my fuel regulator into the system...so it's pretty much just like my 2.5 rail. But the only Q is, I effed up and can't remember what vaccuum tube connects to the top of the regulator. :mad: Can someone help me out. Thanks.

Silver braizing p3wns.
:biggrin:

[DanG]

There's a long red vacuum line that comes from the main vacuum tree off the UIM- It connects to that. You need a true vacuum signal to the FPR (or electronic regulator on returnless) in order for the ECU to adjust pulse width (and pressure if returnless) properly.

[Blackcoog]

Test it for leaks. You don't need the FPR hooked up to test it for pressure. Just plug in the fuel line connections and injectors and check it for leaks by turning the key over to run. Your fuel pump should pressurize the line.

[doublebacker4l69]

Alright...I'm using the 3.0 UIM/LIM, and I'm not sure what one of the ports are for on the UIM...it's the largest port that is right next to the TB...:confused:

damn...

[Blackcoog]

It was for the 3L PCV system. If you aren't using it plug it.

[doublebacker4l69]

Concerning the vacuum tree...since I am using the 3.0 UIM/LIM, the only tubes I have to use are the ones from the FPR and the EGR valve, then the one that attatches to the EVR, right???...:confused:

And what about the other vacuum supply hose? Can I just plug it or something? It's just dangling there and I have no place to put it.

Thanks.

[doublebacker4l69]

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/spencerzc/th_rolex028.jpg (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/spencerzc/rolex028.jpg)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/spencerzc/th_rolex027.jpg (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/spencerzc/rolex027.jpg)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/spencerzc/th_rolex026.jpg (http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/spencerzc/rolex026.jpg)


(I'm running 3.0 LIM/UIM by the way)

The first picture shows the vacuum tree from the 2.5. The green line I know is the EGR valve, red is FPR, the large elbow is for a vacuum supply hose, but I don't remember what the baige tube is for??? Will my ECU need it's input, whatever it is? The only vacuum tubes on the 3.0 were the ones going into the UIM and the one from the EGR valve...then they met at the EVR. So, if I don't need the input from the mysterious baige tube, all I need to do is just run the tubes from my FPR, EGR, and UIM into the EVR right?


eff me. This sucks.

[todras]

Someone needed to search CEG hardcore. Can't believe you didn't do your homework on something like this! Pics of 3L vac routing. Need to piece the vac from both engines.
http://www.fototime.com/EBA0BA981FD7BAD/orig.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/CB780BD77DA833D/orig.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/7BB2D43F9BE867A/orig.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/A1FF38FFE2BCCDB/orig.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/12FF8A7FCA83EB2/orig.jpg

[doublebacker4l69]

well, I'm getting my keys made today...I'm praying to god that the thing turns over...wish me luck

[fordrule]

good luck man.. thats why we need a sticky on a honest to good ness how to for
1. hybrid build (3l block, 2.5 heads)
2. full 3l build ( every-ting 3L)
3. svt/3L franken-motor

so all the answers are answered.