Do you guys think its "Go" time yet?

[Instigator]

okay, i have officially 1100 miles on the clock now. and about 900 of that is here in town, i purposely traveled during rush hour to maximize stop and go traffic for a good clutch break in.

My chip is on its way back to ADC for a reburn. the one they sent me initially doesnt keep the car running for 30 seconds before the car stalls. hopefully ill get that fixed.

I know i have a CEL for faulty lower o2's, no imrc and no EGR. The CEL light worries me a little. For the past week or so i have been giving it more and more throttle, and its fun. but sheer paranoia just takes over because i dont want to chance anything until i have that chip in there.

when i do give it some gas my AFR guage read in the 12's and the car idles cleanly and driveability is great. this reassures me, but again, once i give the thing so pedal, its an animal:evil: and i havent even gotten started on it yet.

So can or should i go WOT once maybe? just to see what it does? i havent exercised this much self control ever, but i have a good reason.

or should i wait? once i have a working chip im going to a reputable SCT dealer here in FL for some dyno tuning so everything is perfect.

Help me out:)

[Gebby]

i know it is hard but you have to wait till you get the car tuned. it only takes a mere second and the engine could go BOOM! all that work you put into it and then nothing to show for it. i would wait!

don

[pgtatx]

Break-in wise... you're fine to go. 1k is usually sufficient to break in a motor and turbo, especially when done together.

Have you changed the oil at all? Check for shavings, or other signs of motor damage?

You can wait till your blue in the face, but eventually you're gonna punch it. Just take care of the tune, and the CEL's before you go at it.

Good luck either way...

[Bigoudi]

Wait for the chip! I would also do a shorter break-in with the new program :)

Greg

[cvsmightymouse24]

You've come this far and waited so long. Might as well wait a lil longer till the chip gets in! Have that baby all tuned up and good to go. After that i'd start to rip that mother up and down the roads!!!

[fordrule]

wait man u have waited so long so far. do it man

[Instigator]

Break-in wise... you're fine to go. 1k is usually sufficient to break in a motor and turbo, especially when done together.

Have you changed the oil at all? Check for shavings, or other signs of motor damage?

You can wait till your blue in the face, but eventually you're gonna punch it. Just take care of the tune, and the CEL's before you go at it.

Good luck either way...

i did the first 550 miles with regular shell oil i got at Target:rofl: i then changed to mobil1 full synthetic and i did stare down that oil and i didnt see and shavings or foriegn objects. well, i guess im just gonna wait until my chip gets back.........i just wanted to hear some opnions......

thanks guys

[Rikenbomb]

I used to think the same way about breaking in and stuff. This I took a look at the following website from the 3L FAQ section in the CEG forums.

How to break in a motor (http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm)

[C4L3]

I used to think the same way about breaking in and stuff. This I took a look at the following website from the 3L FAQ section in the CEG forums.

How to break in a motor (http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm)

Ive heard (read) the same thing that the guy swears by...I know Ducati motorcycles even tell you to break yours in just like that. But people always read this stuff or 'know someone' who's done it...but honestly, I would like to hear it from your (NECO) mouth. Anyone tried this method of break in before?

[Rikenbomb]

Actually that's how I test drove my car with 5 miles on it.

[C4L3]

Did you find it at all advantageous at all? Or no different than past cars you've had/driven. Im just curious as to wheather it really does make as big of a difference as claimed. After all...that guys tests were all on motorcycles and snowmobiles. What do you think?

[pgtatx]

There are 2 schools of thought in engine break in...

one is the, keep it under 4k, and no hard acceleration for 1000-5000 miles. Others say nail it right away, and be on with it.

With a built motor and new turbo. I strongly recommend keeping it gentle. A new built motor (not factory spec), where internals are set with bigger tolerances than stock due to the expansion of the forged materials, break in is key. With aftermarket stuff, you want to check and recheck everything. You want to make sure you get a good seal, and do not have any excessive blow by. You want to make sure the rod/main bearings are seated nicely... You wanna make sure you (or your builder didn't make any mistakes). Also, a new turbo need to be pre-oiled and kept out of any real boost (or you can and most likely will destroy the bearings, or shorten their lives).

The combo together (new turbo, forged internal built motor), I would say it's a good idea to run the motor for 100 miles gently with no boost. Change the oil... run again till 500, and change again, and again at 1000...

Also it's good to break in a motor on standard dino oil, and not synthetics.

No matter what people say... I prefer to listen to the manufacturers.

My car said to keep it under 4K and low boost for 1K... When I was at BMW a while back the M3's used to come with a sticker "service at 1200mi"... the car was governed for the first 1200 mi. Then you brought it in, the techs took the electronic governers off (basically like a reflash), changed the oil and other fluids, and you were good to go.

Nonetheless... in Instigators case... i wouldn't push it, till the CEL's and tune were caken care of (as I stated earlier). You DO NOT want to run into problems with Detonation on a fresh motor... or ever for that matter...

[Rikenbomb]

Well I do think there is truth in that matter. I test drove my car pretty hard when it only had 5 miles on it. Since then it seems to have more power than others. Look at my post in the 2.5L dyno thread. I'll have to throw my dyno graph up.

Even DanG will say that my 2.5L was a freak.

I just don't think the same applies to forced induction motors.

[DanG]

His 2.5L was a freak.






Don't want to disappoint... :tongue:

[Topik]

Well I do think there is truth in that matter. I test drove my car pretty hard when it only had 5 miles on it. Since then it seems to have more power than others. Look at my post in the 2.5L dyno thread. I'll have to throw my dyno graph up.

Even DanG will say that my 2.5L was a freak.

I just don't think the same applies to forced induction motors.


No wonder my car is the slowest ATX ever, a grandma owned this car brand new.:rolleyes:

[DanG]

You want I should build you a 3L? :naughty:

[Topik]

haha how much sir?

[DanG]

I'll tell ya when I'm done with Dmitri's...

[NorCalCoug]

The few race teams I've done any work with break in their motors by taking the car to the track, running a lap nice and gentle to make sure everything is OK, then SLAM the ***** around the track for a dozen laps or so.

:shrug: Your guess is as good as mine.

That's not for FI situations, though.

[Instigator]

my chip is at ADC awaitng reflash

hopefully it will work this time.
he had the wrong box code on it and i had him change some things.

[C4L3]

Why'd you go ADC over and SCT chip? Im just curious...if you had gone the way of SCT you could have had your chip tuned locally and cut down on the transit time, couldn't you?

[Blackcoog]

The ADC chip is an SCT chip. He went with ADC because they tune turbo Contours/Cougars all the time. A local shop probably doesn't know how to tune anything except Mustangs and maybe civics if you find a tuner shop. Granted most knowledge should transfer over but if ADC made a turbo kit and regularly does tuning on ours cars it makes sense to go with them because they have less of a chance of messing it up. Besides he could send them a air/fuel graph or a dyno graph if he could dyno it in the shape it's in right now and then it would be like the tuner has the car in his shop.

[C4L3]

D'oh:banghead:
Thank you for the explanation, Im working on getting educated with all the chips and such. Now if he's able to send ADC dyno charts of A/F charts for better tuning, does he have to send his chip back and forth with them, or can they email him a tune that he can upload into his chip?

[Blackcoog]

Depends on what you buy. If you buy a chip then you have to mail it back and forth through the post office. If you buy an XCal tuner for a bit more then you can email tunes back and forth.