general body stiffening techniques

[99ADCCOUGAR]

i am new to racing with turns in it (im a dragger and road puller) and my friends want me to start doin autocross with them

suspension and stiffening tips welcome....

[jaged]

well the best places to start are
1.lowering springs/coil overs
2.with adjustable struts,
3. a rear strut bar,
4. a bigger rear sway bar,
5. and then a front strut bar,
6. and of course sticky tires will help even with out any of the above

you could go all out and build a cage in the car and it would make it handle like a dream but thats a bit much

[Moraki]

Get a job lifting alot of heavy weights all day.... oh you mean the car...

Weld the doors shut ... :)

And really .. jason forgot

7. Lower frame rails like Bensenville had installed.

[BigBalledOX]

Mmmmm, tubular front and rear lower control arms and toe bars and custom end links help nicely too. :thumbsup:

[jaged]

it also depends on what class you want to run in. Everything i posted will let you stay in DSP. if you go with the subframe connectors that puts you directly into SM. Im not sure about the control arms though.

SM can be a bit rough depending on your region and how much youve got done to the car motor wise to keep up with the BMW's and other lighter, faster cars that are prevelent in the class

[sonza68]

To start, I'd run your car as is. If you get hooked, then start modding to class rules. I'd recommend GS or STS to start (if your mods allow) with bumps to DSP or SM if you decide to get more serious. Tires are the biggest single improvement you can make, followed by springs/struts. My understanding of the rules for DSP would allow a camber kit OR the lower control arms, but not both (both would bump to SM). The subframe connectors are a definate bump to SM.

Also, don't expect to run at the front of the pack right out of the gate. It is not unheard of for a novice to be fast, but it is definately not the norm. It generally takes a season or two to really develop as a driver. We have a lot of people get frustrated when they come in thinking they are hot **** and then finish at the bottom of their class.

[bensenvill]

I recommend throwing money at the problem

but seriously, check it all out first, see if you enjoy it, see if additional modifications would actually be benificial.

[jaged]

yes, definately see where you are first and then go from there.

does that mean that im hot s*** then tom?? :rofl: j/k

[Moraki]

your a steaming pile of something :)

[sonza68]

yes, definately see where you are first and then go from there.

does that mean that im hot s*** then tom?? :rofl: j/k
It was really funny when people were getting killed by an Olds Acheiva. They think they've got a hot car, then BAM!, the Olds goes out there and destroys their time.

[jrak123]

Mmmmm, tubular front and rear lower control arms and toe bars and custom end links help nicely too. :thumbsup:
there you go Ryan sell some of my rear suspension parts for me mang, maybe it will earn you a set of my design:rofl:

[bensenvill]

And really .. jason forgot

7. Lower frame rails like Bensenville had installed.

I should probably address that one specifically.... yes, welding 30 pounds of steel to the bottom of your car makes a huge difference in body stiffness.

the downside is its quite permanent, and it bumps you into a difficult class.

you may want to start with the parts that dont drastically bump you up in classes [sonza would be the person to answer those questions]


[hehe, over 2 months and I think I am still the only cougar with a set installed]

[MrFroge]

TIRES... TIRES... TIRES... your best place to start and where you get your best BANG for the buck!!!:bowdown: :bowdown:

[jaged]

It was really funny when people were getting killed by an Olds Acheiva. They think they've got a hot car, then BAM!, the Olds goes out there and destroys their time.


thats like the yugo that shows up for everyone that doesnt know. then he starts the motorS :rofl:

but back on topic, tires will be your best bet, but an even better investment is seat time. if you can go to any autox driving school that woldl be more valuable than anything. I learned more in one day at the evolution driving school than i did the whole rest of the season. autox is 75% driver, 20% car and 5 % luck, give or take

[99ADCCOUGAR]

good set of 15 inch tires then....for under 400...for all 4...i can get the mounted balanced and all that jazz fer free....so yah tire brand hints

[sonza68]

Are these race only tires, or are you going to be driving on them as well?

[Joemm]

Just a few considerations.

(1) There's some truth in the saying that autocross is for fast drivers and not necessarily for fast cars. An experienced driver in a family sedan can run circles around a "race" car.

(2) For the novice, seat time is WAY more important than modifiying the vehicle.

(3) Get the SCCA rules http://scca.org/Solo/Index.asp?IdS=004E4F-6A45E40&x=050|070&~= and carefully read about the allowed modifications per class.

A basically stock Cougar starts in the G-stock (GS) or street tire G-stock (TGS) class and goes up from there as modifications are implemented: GS to STS to STX to SP to SM etc.

(4) Generally you're better to stay in a lower class with most or all allowed modifications performed than just having one or two modifications and being bumped up to the next class.

For example, GS modifications are basically limited to tires, exhaust, shocks, and brake pads. Put a simple air intake on and your bumped up to a class where your competitor might have an intake plus 10 other modifications putting you at a potential disadvantage.

(5) Relax and have FUN!