Battery light flickering

[Skrinjaric]

I have seen that many of you have problems with alternator. I hav changed 3 alternators and 3 batteries in 6 months on my 1999 2.5l Cougar. Three days ago I did the alt. mod (connected red wire directly to alt. bat. terminal). I tought that it solved the probem, but today battery light is flickering above 3000 RPM. Battery voltage with engine off is 12.6V, at idle it is 15.2V with cold engine (it's below freazing here) and when heated it drops to 14.5V whit most acc. on.

I live in Croatia and here the alt. is very expensive. More than 500$ + labor and I dont know what to do any more.

I wold appreaciate very much If somebody can help me. I wold like to know what was the Ford's solution for TSB 00-25-6. Was it exactly like the alt. mod or something else?

My local Ford dealer (Grand auto) can't find that TSB. They say that they are using ETIS or something like that and that numbers are different.

P.S. Sorry because of my bad english.

[Whiskey]

I had close to the same problem, my battery light would flicker around 3500 rpms and the voltage gauge would jump back in forth from 11 to 17 which was bad, i took it to the shop and 3 days later and 4 mechanics they found the problem it was a small regualtor wire which was burnt up that which was causing it, i hope this helps if u want i can get the mechanics paper for it and tell u exactly what wire and everythig.

[Skrinjaric]

Thanks Ryan. I would appreciate very much if you could send me the details. It might help.

[Whiskey]

not a problem ill have the details post wed. when i get back from work

[Moraki]

I had similar problems but at almost any RPM... but the flickering changed with the RPMs.

Basically for me the Voltage Regulator Plug was shorting out. Thats the 3 wire plug on your Alt. I had a new one from for soldiered in and its just fine now.

[Skrinjaric]

Yesterday I bought new battery (from Motorcraft) in hope it will help and made new measurements. While driving the voltage was arround 14.40-14.55 which I think is good. But the voltage suddenly drops at just a litle above 3000 RPM to 12.6 (which is battery voltage) and the batt. warning light goes on. At 4000 RPM it's just 11.7V. It looks as the alternator just stops working above 3000 RPM.

[Moraki]

It may have nothing to do with the actual alt itself. The wiring or plug might be bad live weve said. Also the programming could be corrupted and its simply not telling the alt to do anything over 3k, though this is doubtfull.

Oh and your english isnt bad enough to aplogize for :)

[Cougarkid]

same problem, was the connector mentioned above

[crazyoldcougar]

yeah i replaced mine to a little while ago..I4 but the alt has the same design i belive (C6 or something like that) , had to do it twice though cause the voltage regulator plug was screwed up on the first one...guy at the alt shop swore up and down it was because of the wiring mods i did and not the brand new alt...until he did a pin test and found them to be shorting...

[Skrinjaric]

I have been at local ford dealer to check what is wrong and they offcourse did not find anything wrong. But they did charge the diagnostics. As soon as I left the light came on. They said to came at saturday to do more diagnostics (and charge more).

[Moraki]

Gotta love that.... we didnt find anything but come back later so we can take more of your money.

Tell them to look at the Alternator Voltage Regulator Plug. (the 3 wire plug on the alt) If it shows black marks on the inside of the plug (harness side of the plug) it is arcing and needs to be replaced.

[Skrinjaric]

I will go to check the connector. But could it be the mega fuse ? Maybe it is "half burned" and it produces bad connection ?

[crazyoldcougar]

I have been at local ford dealer to check what is wrong and they offcourse did not find anything wrong. But they did charge the diagnostics. As soon as I left the light came on. They said to came at saturday to do more diagnostics (and charge more).
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: reminds me of when i took my car to the local dealer...to find out why there was this incredibly hideous noise coming from under my hood when i hit higher rpms, why the voltage dropped and why the car would stall when this all happened....:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: they came back to me about 30 minutes later and told me it must be my new exhaust resonating that is creating the noise, then they wanted to charge me the dianostc cost...i could not stop laughing at them...and calling them a bunch of idiots...i took the mechanic and the service manager outside so i could reproduce the symptoms...this time i did it with the hood up so i could see aswell, and i just pulled open the TB...sure enough the alt was sparking like crazy, the rear bearing had fell off and the rotor was being pulled into the stator...but anyway....they guy goes ahh you have an alternator problem...i was like thanks Sherlock, and told them to stick the 80 bucks up their butts...i was not a very happy camper that day...


i doubt it is your mega fuse....unless they are made of aluminum (which i highly doubt) once it burns it would pop...aluminum can continue to burn for quite a while before the connection is actually comprimised..

i would definately check your voltage regulator..while your under there you might as well check the rest of your connections too..all your grounds and positives..

[Skrinjaric]

Thank you all for help. I have solved my problem. I went to alternator repair shop and they fix it. The problem was burned stator wires (one phase), damadged slip rings and brushes and regulator (only the rotor wires where OK). The source of all problems was local Ford distributor that sells bad alternators and doesn't how to fix it anything. Now the car works fine and I must say it's a wonderful car. Woldn't change it for nothing.

[scrupul0us]

Another partially satisified customer...

And hey, the dude is from Croatia... his/her english is pretty damn good

[Skrinjaric]

Thanks scupulOus.

[JpFiZzAL]

better english than me............