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View Full Version : shaving 3rd brake and rear wiper


KnappstamaN
09-30-2005, 02:03 AM
Okay, here is my problem... when i took these things out, they left these nice big holes in my hatch. I went to a sheetmetal shop, and they fabricated pieces of sheetmetal to fill in the void. Now the problem - i need to weld them in, but no one wants to do it!!

I always get the complaint of "its too thin, it will warp" with mig or tig welding because that gets way to hot for thin guaged metal

From researching the internet and talking to my welding teacher, it seems as if tac or stitch welding is the way to go, because its the coolest of all other forms of welding, and its usually made for sheetmetal welding... the problem is i cannot find anyone with a darn stitched welder.

What i came to ask is, anyone else who has shaved the 3rd brake or rear wiper hole, what have you done? and how effective was it? My welding teacher propsed the idea, of setting up the pieces of sheetmetal in the holes, and tac welding them from the back side every 1/2 inch or so and body filler on the outside, mainly because he doesnt have a stitch welder. I dont know if tahts the best way to go because i want the thing completely welded in there. can anyone offer insight on how theirs was done?

stevenee
09-30-2005, 07:53 PM
check this- have the shop fabricate oversized pieces, that overlap the hole and rivet them in. Thats what i did on my 280zx and it worked great! after you apply body filler, and sand smooth, you can't ever tell it was there.

-steve

KnappstamaN
10-01-2005, 12:06 AM
i think i get where your coming from.... i could end up getting smaller oversized pieces and put them under from the back side, and rivet/ tac weld in place, with body filler on the front. Good idea

First, i would actually like them welded, if that doesnt work... riveting will be next.

ClaymoreWW
10-01-2005, 12:37 AM
if you have an arc welder, get an Eastwood Stitch Welder (http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1187&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=stitch+welder) for $70.

--george

KnappstamaN
10-01-2005, 12:59 AM
yep, i just saw that last night, and was thinking about buying it. At school we have tons of arc welding machines, and id say it wouldnt be to hard to swap out this gun and use it temporarily.

thanks claymore, i think i will go ahead and buy that, and when it comes in the mail... ill take it to class and see what my instructor will do with it. I talked to him today about it and he said hed be more than welcome to weld it up if i get whats needed (as in the gun) because we have thousands of electodes and machines in class.

CATerina
10-02-2005, 12:56 PM
All you have to do is use small quick tac welds. Check out streetsourcemagazine.com for welding tips. They have alot of people that are great welders. I would not use the other guys method

EternalOne
10-02-2005, 02:33 PM
Here's the easy way, using the pieces you already have.

Just use a large piece of brass on the underside, and do short tac's, so you don't heat things up. Just keep the brass under your weld and it will help dissipate the heat, and will keep things lined up and even. We used this trick on my antenna (where its a PAIN to weld), wiper, and 3rd brake light.

E1

KnappstamaN
10-02-2005, 10:14 PM
ok cool, so it sounds like tac welding is the way to go. im glad because this is what my instructor first offered, then mentioned it COULD be stitch welded. I want to go with tac, because it saves me the money of buying a welder. Plus i can get it done this week. 2 questions tho:

1. How far apart should each tac weld be placed?

2. Should they be welded from the front side or from the back?

EternalOne
10-03-2005, 02:10 PM
Weld from above, and stagger them out. You'll need to weld the whole thing, just alternate which area you're welding on to keep the metal from heating up too much. Also, be sure to use a welding blanket on the back hatch window, and keep a rag and water handy to cool things down.

E1

Blackedoutcat
10-22-2005, 02:24 PM
Fiberglass it. Easier cheaper and if you ever changer your mind it is easier to retrofit.

KnappstamaN
10-22-2005, 04:35 PM
Fiberglass it. Easier cheaper and if you ever changer your mind it is easier to retrofit.

that is not the way i want to go, i want it fully welded so it will not crack over time. Plus, its something i will never go back on

CATerina
10-22-2005, 07:34 PM
Ya dont fiberglass it

10ktgold
10-24-2005, 03:46 AM
now can i have your wiper and motor and stuff :) i want a rear wiper , i posted an add to about trading my hatch to someone who was gonna do that

KnappstamaN
10-24-2005, 08:24 AM
i sold the wiper arm, but still have the motor and mounting hardware.

tr0nic
10-26-2005, 01:40 PM
This is what was done on my door handles, rear wiper hole, spoiler holes, antenna hole, squirter hole and 3rd brake light holes..

Small metal plate on the inside, tack welded into place. Glass over it a couple times, sanding after each time. Bondo over the final to fill the small crevaces, then sand, wetsand, and primer.

billet350
10-27-2005, 12:21 PM
exactly what tronic said.. except when ur done with primer, PAINT lol

tr0nic
10-27-2005, 12:30 PM
Damnit I know I forgot something. Thanks mousa HAHA


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