8 months of work compressed into one week, yes I'm crazy

[Instigator]

Oaky ive got the motor torn down and im waiting on my new gasket and oil pan to get here. i need to go to the dealership and get a new crank pulley bolt too.

everyhting on the tear down looked great. the power steering pump was in fact leaking very badly so i got one from a junkyard yesterday so hopefully that will cure that part.

i removed the heads and WOW coolant/oil everywhere as soon as i lifted them off.

that copper gasket didnt seal at all. the head bolts were tough to loosen, so i did infact torque them down properly. putting the stock gasket on should save me there.

pulled the oil pan and i was an idiot for not using the right pan or the right gasket. i used the gasket designed for a pan with an integrated gasket (where you sorta push it into the gasket groove). the pan i used was flat and was definitely made for a different gasket. the pan didnt seal at all and i could plainly see where it was leaking from when the motor was on the stand.

sorry guys didnt have time to take any pics. but i will have this car running by friday morning.

Gonna rebuild it today, go to work, finish up tonight. Then tomorrow im off from work, and ill get it ready to go in the car and hopefully put it back in the car. put the turbo kit back on and fire her up:)

yes im crazy:crazy: :crazy: :crazy:

then ill get some video of the car NOT leaking everywhere:biggrin:

[wadespencer99]

So ya getting any sleep this week? lol

[fordrule]

probally not he will be on AIM babbling like a fool, and his gf will be pissed and give him no booty since he is spending so much time on the car .

[Y2Kat]

Sounds like the voice of experience talking there Fordrule

[jrak123]

And he cluch issues?

[Instigator]

oh the clutch!!!

it looks like i put the disk on in the right direction, i took a quick glance at everything before i took it apart and the disk looked a little uncentered. ill pay double the attention to it once i put it back on.

perhaps i couldve tightened the pressure plate too tight? spec never said how tight to put the 6 bolts on. :shrug: suggestions????

[bensenvill]

good luck.

[sounds like you have a good handle on what needs to be done]

[CougarKid2004]

:eek: holy crap does that suck. Sorry to hear that man, good luck

[ilovemycar]

perhaps i couldve tightened the pressure plate too tight? spec never said how tight to put the 6 bolts on. :shrug: suggestions????

I would put a new release bearing in it, and tighten the PP bolts down to stock spec.

I will look when i get home and see what the specs are for you. They are in the Haynes Manuel i have at the house. :thumbsup:

[fordrule]

yes torque the clutch PP to ford stock specs ...... the specs are 21 lb-ft

flywheel are 59 lb-ft

tighten the clutch pressure plate evenly working diagonally. ( like tigtening lugnuts on a tire)


and yes danny i am. she is now just getting over it. lol she knows i love her and how the car is my mistress

[DemonSVT]

spec never said how tight to put the 6 bolts on. :shrug: suggestions????
Yes.

Follow the torqueing instructions in the Ford Service Manuals!


You are building this engine without the manuals??? :eek:

[warmonger]

Oaky ive got the motor torn down and im waiting on my new gasket and oil pan to get here. i need to go to the dealership and get a new crank pulley bolt too.

everyhting on the tear down looked great. the power steering pump was in fact leaking very badly so i got one from a junkyard yesterday so hopefully that will cure that part.

i removed the heads and WOW coolant/oil everywhere as soon as i lifted them off.

that copper gasket didnt seal at all. the head bolts were tough to loosen, so i did infact torque them down properly. putting the stock gasket on should save me there.

pulled the oil pan and i was an idiot for not using the right pan or the right gasket. i used the gasket designed for a pan with an integrated gasket (where you sorta push it into the gasket groove). the pan i used was flat and was definitely made for a different gasket. the pan didnt seal at all and i could plainly see where it was leaking from when the motor was on the stand.

sorry guys didnt have time to take any pics. but i will have this car running by friday morning.

Gonna rebuild it today, go to work, finish up tonight. Then tomorrow im off from work, and ill get it ready to go in the car and hopefully put it back in the car. put the turbo kit back on and fire her up:)

yes im crazy:crazy: :crazy: :crazy:

then ill get some video of the car NOT leaking everywhere:biggrin:


:banghead:

Just order a gasket from an earlier pan style then as long as your pan isn't cracked, verify the crack you said you had earlier. The ealier one is about 1/8" thick aluminum with rubber seals built into it. Only the latest pans use the o-ring. Without the aluminum spacer you may have bent the oil pickup tube. Check that.

On the power steering pump, make sure it is NOT the high pressure fitting. If that teflon o-ring on the fitting is damaged it will leak like a sieve and all the fluid runs down on the pump. I should konw, I finally broke mine a few months ago and I just had to put in a new high pressure line. IF you need a new line, don't stint. Get one from Bill J right away and put it in the car while the engine is out. Otherwise its a real Biotch!
Also, if you high pressure fitting is really loose on the line, turns easy or has any in/out movement along the line, replace it.

[warmonger]

I would put a new release bearing in it.....

Why?? Because it's someone elses money we're playing with?

If the throwout bearing seals aren't leaking and it isn't bent/loose/cracked/broken then there is no reason to replace it. Looking into air in the line, clutch master cylinder, or misalignment would be smarter.

Just remember, clutch slave cylinders are just like wheel cyliders. Without visible damage they fall into one of the four categories:
1. They either work with no problems,
2. work and just leak,
3. don't work because they are siezed,
4. or don't work because they leak too much.

This is because it is just a piston with a seal that moves on a shaft. NOTHING TO go wrong if it isn't leaking other than siezing.

Of course torque the bolts down right as well.

[ilovemycar]

Why?? Because it's someone elses money we're playing with?

If the throwout bearing seals aren't leaking and it isn't bent/loose/cracked/broken then there is no reason to replace it. Looking into air in the line, clutch master cylinder, or misalignment would be smarter.

Just remember, clutch slave cylinders are just like wheel cyliders. Without visible damage they fall into one of the four categories:
1. They either work with no problems,
2. work and just leak,
3. don't work because they are siezed,
4. or don't work because they leak too much.

This is because it is just a piston with a seal that moves on a shaft. NOTHING TO go wrong if it isn't leaking other than siezing.

Of course torque the bolts down right as well.

Hello Mcfly...he said is clutch wouldn't work...that is why i said replace it :banghead:

j/k

But seriously if it was me and my brand new clutch didn't work i would be buying a brand new Ford TOB to put in. Just extra insurance just in case it was the old TOB that was causing it not to work. After all he did say that he used the TOB that came with the Spec kit :confused:

[DemonSVT]

After all he did say that he used the TOB that came with the Spec kit :confused:
So did Tom , myself, and many others.

Tom has had his apart a couple time as well. Still the same T/O bearing that came in his SPEC kit IIRC.

King Chicken Little started the SPEC scare do to sheer ignorance. (Among many other baseless claims :crazy: ) In this particular instance it turns out the real problem with T/O bearings was a Ford (Motorcraft) screw up. Mis-boxed OEM T/O bearings.

[ilovemycar]

So did Tom , myself, and many others.

Tom has had his apart a couple time as well. Still the same T/O bearing that came in his SPEC kit IIRC.

King Chicken Little started the SPEC scare do to sheer ignorance. (Among many other baseless claims :crazy: ) In this particular instance it turns out the real problem with T/O bearings was a Ford (Motorcraft) screw up. Mis-boxed OEM T/O bearings.

"king Chicken Little" LMAO...yah i saw that thread over on CEG. Oh well i guess i have an extra TOB for if my factory one ever messes up...anybody need a TOB? lol

[warmonger]

So do you READ any of the replies I've been posting to try and help you out? I notice you never got back on to confirm whether you had a crack in the pan or not, whether you had a PS leak and from where or not.
Another thing that concerns me is how you could pull the transmission of and find the disc out of alignment. I would think that the input shaft would have to fit in the clutch disk to allow the bellhousing to bolt up to the block correctly.

Good luck, I really want to see you succeed here. If you aren't interested in the advice or replies, just say "you got it" or let us know if this is helping you out.

[Instigator]

sorry tom ive been moving into my house the past few days.

everythings together and the car goes into gear. so the clutch is fine this time. i am having trouble with my turbo's oil drain fitting. i am goiung to fix that in the next day or two after im settled in. before that tho, she fired up and ran fr about 5 seconds before oil came out of the bottom of the turbo and i had to shut her off. power steering is still leaking even after i put another pump in i got from a junkyard. im going to get a brand new pump to see if that doesnt fix it. none of the lines are broken.....:shrug:

[1COUGAR99]

Can you see where it is leaking from? Sounds like the teflon seal is damaged.

Pinhole and 1000+ psi = geyser

Good luck!!!

[fordrule]

damn man u have the best luck. congrats on the speed of pulling and re-installing it all. cant wait to see a video of the beast actually idling and driving

[warmonger]

sorry tom ive been moving into my house the past few days.

everythings together and the car goes into gear. so the clutch is fine this time. i am having trouble with my turbo's oil drain fitting. i am goiung to fix that in the next day or two after im settled in. before that tho, she fired up and ran fr about 5 seconds before oil came out of the bottom of the turbo and i had to shut her off. power steering is still leaking even after i put another pump in i got from a junkyard. im going to get a brand new pump to see if that doesnt fix it. none of the lines are broken.....:shrug:

What kind of problem? Is the GT series turbo using the same kind of oil drain plate that the t3/4 series does? I guess does the compression fitting I included thread into the plate? If so it shouldn't leak if it is tightened enough. Now if the plate that bolts to the bottom isn't sealed with a gasket then it can leak. THat is all I can think of.
Oh, did you put in a line restrictor on the oil feed? That is imperative so that you don't leak oil into the intake. THe oil pressure and volume on the duratec is very high and without a restrictor you will have big problems.

[Instigator]

i have the special restrictor made for my turbocharger, and i have an adapter that goes on my turbo for the drain. i think i put the drain on wrong and im figuring out a way to fix it. i had the oil drain in the pan welded in to ensure no leaks ever.

the oil inlet fitting i used with the built in restrictor wasnt going in right, still trying to work that out too

[fordrule]

any word on this man. how did it go

[bensenvill]

any word on this man. how did it go

ya, your week is up

[Topik]

Check your power steering lines under the passenger half shaft. Thats where my lines leaked at.

[FastCougar]

sorry tom ive been moving into my house the past few days.

everythings together and the car goes into gear. so the clutch is fine this time. i am having trouble with my turbo's oil drain fitting. i am goiung to fix that in the next day or two after im settled in. before that tho, she fired up and ran fr about 5 seconds before oil came out of the bottom of the turbo and i had to shut her off. power steering is still leaking even after i put another pump in i got from a junkyard. im going to get a brand new pump to see if that doesnt fix it. none of the lines are broken.....:shrug:Stop wasting money (like I'm one to talk!) and isolate the source of the leak ... stop thinking like a dealership mechanic :rofl: