(?) Oil Pressure Gauge Install (pics)

[atlas]

After doing my research on installing an Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge, this is what I've come up with. Thought I'd post it here to make sure I got everything right before I start doing stuff.

Here is the back of my Autometer Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge (left) and the corresponding Oil Pressure Sender Unit (right):
http://home.thezone.net/~chaffey/OilPressureGauge.jpg
I hope the above picture is self-explanatory, most of it is pretty simple to understand.

I've read that the only place to install an electrical oil pressure sender unit on the Duratec engine is to attach it to the rear block on the driverside. There is a hex nut there that must be removed, and this is where the electrical oil pressure sender unit is mounted. Is that blue thing another type of oil pressure sender unit? Or maybe a tapped oil feed for a mechanical oil pressure gauge?
http://home.thezone.net/~chaffey/OilPressureSenderMountingLocation.jpg
Picture above is not my Cougar, sorry for using it whoever does own it. I hope your not mad :)

Unfortunately, I do not have an upclose picture of the hex nut on the rear block of the engine, but from what I've read you have to remove that large hex nut and attach the electrical oil pressure sender unit there. My gauge came with an adapter that screws right on top of the sender unit. I'm guessing it's to accommodate various oil feed sizes? Here is a pic of the oil pressure sender unit without the adapter (top), and another with the adapter screwed on (bottom):
http://home.thezone.net/~chaffey/OilPressureSender01.jpg
http://home.thezone.net/~chaffey/OilPressureSender02.jpg
Which one will fit our engines?

My final, and probably most important, question (and it might be very stupid) is: When I remove that hex bolt from the block, will oil start coming out? Should I prepare to lose some oil and make a huge mess by removing this hex bolt?

Thanks everyone for clearing this up for me. Whenever I tackle a new mod, I really need to have everything worked-out in my mind before attacking the job.

Thanks!
Darrell.

[IUPcoug00]

dont forget to use teflon tape on the threads from the sender to the adapter and from the adapter to the block.

[atlas]

^^^ See? Good tips :)

So I guess your saying that I will need to use that adapter thingy. Will oil come out if I remove the hex nut?

[DanG]

NO! Don't put it in that one! You will not be able to put in the DPFE sensor. Use the left-hand port in the same head!

[atlas]

So install it here instead?

http://home.thezone.net/~chaffey/OilPressureSenderMountingLocation02.jpg

[DanG]

:thumbsup:

[atlas]

And the last question before I do this:

When I remove that hex bolt from the block, will oil start coming out?

Thanks everyone (esp. DanG & IUPcoug00!),
Darrell.

[IUPcoug00]

no problem. i dont know for sure because i am still waiting to install mine, but i wouldnt think oil would come out unless your car is running for some reason. there wouldnt be any oil pumped through the engine when it's off. maybe a tiny bit will drip out, but i dont know for sure. just a thought...

[IUPcoug00]

i just got a tip from another member to use teflon sealer paste, not the tape. i guess the tape wont hold up to the pressure. no biggie, any hardware store will have it.

[atlas]

Thanks again, IUPcoug00. I was thinking the same thing about the oil, but I wasn't sure.

[DanG]

Oil may dribble out, yes. However- Big <u>HOWEVER</u>:

Teflon tape should only be used on the rear half of the threads. You need to make sure that there is metal to metal contact between the head, adapter (if any), and sender. The sender used resistance to ground to measure pressure. If you don't have a good electrical connection, it's useless. Leave the first half of the threads bare, wrap the second half. As the sender goes in, it'll hit the taped threads towards the end and provide a nice seal.

[gyger]

I used the Teflon paste and that stuff sealed well and I still got a very good ground.

[atlas]

DanG, thanks for answering my question and giving me that great tip. I remember reading in the instructions about a "good ground" but they never really explained it like you did. Your a lifesaver!

Darrell.

[DemonSVT]

Originally posted by: DanG
NO! Don't put it in that one! You will not be able to put in the DPFE sensor. Use the left-hand port in the same head!
You are half right. It should be more like...

NO, DON'T put it in either head gallery. The galleries there are after restrictors and at the end of the circuit.
You will not get an accurate or responsive reading.


Tap into the gallery before the oil filter. (between the pump & filter) The plug in front of the stock sender.

Some folks have even just Teed the stock sender.

[atlas]

Okay, now I'm back to confused :)

I trust both DanG and DemonSVT as very knowledgable people on these boards. Where is the oil pump and stock oil sender?

[DemonSVT]

Originally posted by: atlas
Where is the oil pump and stock oil sender?
The stock sender is on the left side of the engine block just forward of center. (i.e. just behind the A/C compressor)


The oil pump is on the bottom of the engine on the front side. That doesn't matter though as I was using it to illustrate what gallery I was talking about. ;)

[atlas]

Okay, after much thinking about where to tap the oil pressure sender unit (tap the gallery before or after the oil filter) I've decided to tap after the oil filter. Even though the oil filter will act as a restrictor, I'd rather know what the oil pressure is in my head gallery over what is is between the oil pump and oil filter. Just makes more since to me.

I also found this nice how to on installing a oil pressure gauge on a Ford Focus:
http://myfordfocus.com/how-to/oilgauge.htm
Even though it's on the Zetec engine, the principal is the same. And they tap the hex nut in the head gallery. Apparently, Ford uses the exact same method in their instructions when selling their own gauges.

[rbls4ever]

that guy has a mechanical oil guage. i wouldnt want an oil line running into my car. if that thig blows there will be oil all in your eyes. not even oil HOT oil. thed solution is the braided steel lines. but even better is the electrical. i gonna get one and put the sensor in the block behind the a/c compressor. it makes more sense to have it right after the pump that way if it runs dry u'll be the first to know. after the oil filter would probably be a worse reading. the a/c compressor sits in the way so u have toput a small hose on the fiting then run the line to the sender unit.

[atlas]

Your right! That is a mechanical oil pressure gauge... my bad. I guess I never looked that hard at the how-to.

Okay, so to sum up the pros & cons for each option so far:

<u>Tapping Before the Oil Filter</u> (Between the pump & filter)
- Get a more accurate & responsive reading. Pro
- If the oil runs dry then you'll know before the engine does. Pro
- You do not have to run a small hose from the hex nut to the sender unit. Pro
- Harder hex nut to find and access. Con

<u>Tapping After the Oil Filter</u> (See pic here (http://home.thezone.net/~chaffey/OilPressureSenderMountingLocation02.jpg))
- Get a less accurate & responsive reading. Con
- If the oil runs dry then you'll know at the same time your engine knows. Con
- You will have to run a small hose from the hex nut to the sender unit (harder install). Con
- Easier hex nut to find and access. Pro

Anyone else want to add to this list or change anything?

[rbls4ever]

you see that pic is the pic of the place to put the sender in the head which is totally inaccurate. its all the way after EVERYTHING but the heads. all the important crap is all below. down behind the a/c compressor there are 1 hex nut plug and 1 stock oil sender. the stock sender is AFTER the oil filter and the plug is BEFORE the oil filter. i beleive both holes r the same size. and for both a line would have to be run to somewhere not behind the compressor and the sending unit located there. the shorter the better in my opinion. there was another fellow who has put his sender there and there was pictures on the bored. he ran his all the way up to the fender which is a big tube to fill with pressure and i would think THOSE readings would be less accurate than a smaller hose. the head reading does nothing but bling bling looks. the b4 the oil filter plug is prolly the best but its not as simple as screw this in here. oh well for a lil piece of mind mine is going behind the a/c compressor. the choice is yours.

[rbls4ever]

here is that picture. see the one with the line is the fitting b4 the oil filter right after the pump. the second one is the stock sensor and it sits in the crank oil gallery. my logic is that the one b4 the filter would be a better reading because the filter wouldnt interfere with the readings. and like u said you would know b4 the engine would. some have tee'd the stock sensor but that might be a lil bit harder. so thats where mine is going... happy trails all

[atlas]

Is that picture taken from under the car, looking up?

[jec215]

Are there any pics of the spot by the ac compressor where this hex head is to get better readings? I will be doing this before too long also.

[rbls4ever]

yes the pic is taken underneth the car. and to the other guy the picture was attached to my post maybe someone could put it up on there page so they dont have to click on it. the author of the pic is nandalora

[PuckPuck]

pic of hex nut by the a/c compressor

http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/oil%2520pressure%2520sensor%252Ejpg.jpg

[rbls4ever]

thank you mr puck puck. your always so helpfull by the way how did u do that? and in the picture you can see the guys filter relocation kit for is headers i think maybe something else. but yeah thats why it doesnt look like the bottom of the car. most cars would have the filter screwed into that hole. the a/c compressor covers the whole area where the 2 plugs are.

[atlas]

Okay, I'm going to go look under the car right now and try and make since of this. But I still don't see no A/C Compressor in that picture. Is that because he has moved it?

[atlas]

So, I found the oil filter and the A/C Compressor. But not hex nuts. I have to move the A/C Compressor for this don't I? Pic:

http://home.thezone.net/~chaffey/Oil-Filter_AC-Compressor.jpg

[PuckPuck]

you have to move the a/c compressor to get to that hex nut... and once there, you'll need to use a 90* elbow and remote mount the actual sensor, or the a/c compressor is not going back on....

in the pic that shows it, the a/c compressor is no where to be seen... could be removed all together.....


rbls4ever... that pic had odd characters in the filename... being i'm a programmer and can interpret url codes, i was able to figure out what the characters were doing and link to it properly....

[fordrule]

can we sticky this or someone write up a proper install for this mod

[atlas]

I'll try and take pictures of this as I'm doing it, and then post a proper how-to. Someone else will have to host these pics though, because they won't last forever on my very small server.

[rbls4ever]

well to get the pieces u go to home depot with the fitting that fits in the hole and get a 90 degree elbo then find some copper hose that fits the fitings. ull need the round things that fit onto the hose to make a tight fiting. then make sure everything will work together b4 leaving the store then go home and install. once i finnally get my pressure guage i will be doing this and can give a complete parts listing with names. or atlas can do it as he will be the one doing it first. you all can try to pm nandalora and ask him. hes technically the first to do this(first to say something maybe).

[atlas]

Before going to HomeDepot, I'll have to remove the A/C Compressor, find the Hex Bolt and remove that too. Then find out exactally what size of a 90-degree knuckle I'll need; either the size that the stock sender is (this one (http://home.thezone.net/~chaffey/OilPressureSender01.jpg)), or the adapter size (this one (http://home.thezone.net/~chaffey/OilPressureSender02.jpg)).

Anything I should know about removing the A/C Compressor? Or should I just start removing bolts? I'm assuming the belt will fall-off when I do this, and the compressor itself will be attached to some or many wires. Besides being careful of that, is that it? Three bolts, right?

[rbls4ever]

i think its actually 4 bolts. there is the tensioner u need to put a ratchet on that and release the tension then take the belt off. after that take the bolts out of the a/c and carefully move it to the side. make sure u don't kink or rip or bend ANY line or wires. find a way to keep it out of the way. i believe the fitting is the same size as the one in the top of the head. so the adapter is needed but yeah check which one is the right one then go to home depot. get the smallest elbow possible and then get the copper line for the ice maker on a fridge. and all the fitting needed. u sound smart and could prolly figure out what u needed. afterwards come back here and enlighten the rest of us as to what you bought. have fun and watch out for the oil when u take the hex plug out. and be careful not to strip it. work with a cold engine.

[atlas]

The engine has been cold now for about 6 months... no worries there :) I would of started her up periodically over the storage period, but she's been apart all winter.

A HUGE thanks to everyone that has helped me out in this. I should be getting to it either this coming Mon/Tues or the following weekend.

Darrell.

[PuckPuck]

I would take the y-pipe off too... not enough room otherwise.... maybe even take the a/c heat shield out so you don't carve your arm up....

[fordrule]

good job and a lot of good info. this is going to be a good help when i get home to install my oil pressure gauge

[atlas]

Man, this just seems like SO much to remove... and intimidating to someone like me. There is no other place to install this thing? (Besides the head, on the driverside of the engine, under and to the right of the throttle body, which is no good anyways).

[rbls4ever]

nope...... all the other hole are too big or a sand casting plug..........sorry

[Badazzcougar]

I just finished hooking up my oil psi gauge,I got a mechanical one though and I ran it strait to the rear head, It works fine. When my car is cold it pushes close to 80psi according to the gauge and when it warms up its between 15 to 20 psi.

[fordrule]

hey atlas
u ever get it installed did the position by the filter behind the a/c compressor work for you.

[rbls4ever]

Originally posted by: Badazzcougar
I just finished hooking up my oil psi gauge,I got a mechanical one though and I ran it strait to the rear head, It works fine. When my car is cold it pushes close to 80psi according to the gauge and when it warms up its between 15 to 20 psi.

mechanical guage and u installed it in the head..... u havent listened to anything weve been saying have you? the place for it is under the a/c compressor. the head readings wont do anything but tell what the pressure is. the point of the guage is to tell if ur starvin for oil or not. and did u put the stainless steel braided lines or the stock nylon. i wouldnt want the nylon pos running into my car. if that thing blows theres gonna be hot hot ass oil all in your eyes

[atlas]

Actually, I tried doing it, but realized I might be over my head. So I got a friend that is a mechanic to help me... but he won't be free for another couple weeks :( I'll get it done eventually though and post the results here for sure.

[rbls4ever]

ill be making a proper how-to once i actually receive my guages.......

[PuckPuck]

I'm actually in the process of doing this.... if my phone would stop ringing i can get back to it (oh and i gotta get off the boards too)....


anyhow my A/C compressor is already out (as well as the rest of the A/C system) so i'm not going to be using a T Fitting. I'm just going to put the sensor in the hole as is, and run an 18 guage wire back into the cabin.


So far I can say this.... you need an 8mm allen key to get the plug out... and it's in there pretty good... i ended up having to put a wrench and pipe extension on the allen key just to break the plug loose.....

I'll be taking some pics of the process, but mind you i don't have A/C in my car, so it won't be the same setup as most of you will be running with a T-fitting and remote mounted sensor.

[atlas]

PuckPuck... what brandname gauge do you have? I'm curious to know if the sender unit fits exactally into the hex nut location, or if you need to use the adapter.

[rbls4ever]

ill make one with the a/c installed afterwards. maybe we could conglomerate our how-to's?

[PuckPuck]

I bought a Faze guage... I was quite hesitant at first, but seen a write-up about them in one of my car mags, and they gave them good remarks.... the guage with sender and 5 extra adapters cost me 100$ CDN.... One of the adapters in the box fit perfect....

I got slightly side tracked yesterday and didn't finish the actual hook up.... all the wires are in the car though now, and all I need to do is litterally plug it in and turn the car on.....

[rbls4ever]

im getting my autometer guage on wednesday or thurs so expect the how-to for the thing around that time.... most likely thurs

[rbls4ever]

the how to for this in the proper location with a/c installed and remote mounted on an autometer auto-lite guage will be posted tomarow. look for it in the how-to section. including pics.

[rbls4ever]

how- to posted. gimme some feedback people........

[atlas]

I just took a quick look, and it seems amazing! Great work! I'll read through it thoroughly when I get a chance (running to work right now). I'm so very happy that I have this as a guide to installing my gauge... thank you very much!!!

Darrell.

[jrak123]

Originally posted by: PuckPuck
I'm actually in the process of doing this.... if my phone would stop ringing i can get back to it (oh and i gotta get off the boards too)....


anyhow my A/C compressor is already out (as well as the rest of the A/C system) so i'm not going to be using a T Fitting. I'm just going to put the sensor in the hole as is, and run an 18 guage wire back into the cabin.


So far I can say this.... you need an 8mm allen key to get the plug out... and it's in there pretty good... i ended up having to put a wrench and pipe extension on the allen key just to break the plug loose.....

I'll be taking some pics of the process, but mind you i don't have A/C in my car, so it won't be the same setup as most of you will be running with a T-fitting and remote mounted sensor.

Puck I wouldn't recomend you mounting the sending unit right on the block. Our engines reve pretty high causing a lot of vibrations thus messing with the pressure transducer could give faulty reading at high revs and also cause premature failure i.e. leaks. the sender should be remote mounted reguardless.

[fordrule]

ok i have a question. i have this type of sending unit

http://img290.echo.cx/img290/8418/oilpressureswitch5ud.jpg

how do i remote mount this one just do it the same as this install ?