Driving tips needed

[mallard]

I've done autocrosses before in my FWD automatic V6 Pontiacs. I'm considering taking my new Cougar MTX. My major concern is I've never raced with a manual before. Should I launch in 1st or 2nd, and at what RPMs? What kind of corners will I want to pull out the clutch and coast around, what corners will I want to leave it in gear and let the differential sort things out? Any driving advice would be appreciated.

[reptar]

Hope driving the Cougar works out well for you... I've had a good start to the season in mine.

I launch in 1st gear, at about 2500 rpm, I think (I hate to admit it, I go by feel and don't look at my gages... probably not the best approach for consistency...). Engine speed will obviously depend on how much grip you're getting at the line and how much you feather the clutch. You just need to find a happy medium between bogging and spinning the tires... just don't worry too much about it, there's more time to be made up elsewhere on the course.

I wouldn't put the clutch in at all after the start unless you're shifting gears (which reminds me, unless you're adept at heel-toe downshifts, don't bother shifting back down into 1st once you've gotten to 2nd... even if you do it right, you'll probably just end up smoking your tires coming out of the corner... once you get to 2nd, stay there). I've never driven a course where I needed 3rd gear.

While we're on the topic, try to make sure the car is relatively stable when you do upshift (ie- straights, long sweepers, etc). Shifting when the car is transferring a lot of weight will probably get you into trouble...

Other than that, look ahead, be smooth, have fun!

[EricF]

Driving the pontiacs has probably taught you lots of patience, although you didn't mention which.

You should never have the need to clutch in and coast.
Constant Sweepers, nice constant throttle
Slalom depending, nice constant throttle
if you need to slow, always brake in a straight line.

Having driven automatics you may have played with LFB left foot braking,
if so once your in gear, you can treat it the same way. If your not accustom to
LFB, don't bother trying it till you are comfortable with the MTX.

Lifting throttle through offset slaloms or offset corrodors, can allow the car to rotate a little,
lifting the trottle, turning the wheel and hitting the brakes will quickly show you where you were a few moments ago.(not good)

those are just a few tips off the top of my head.

[mallard]

Much thanks for the quality advice. Most of my autocross experience was with a 1992 Grand Am 3-speed auto. I built the car from junk, I didn't mind beating on it while learning how to drive. I dropped an all-iron Buick 3.3l V6 in there, giving the car an estimated 80/20 weight balance, which didn't help. Having small rims with chunky tires and a wide second gear were an advantage. Having over 200,000 miles on the clock, rear drum "brakes", and a soft suspension didn't help.

The dynamics of the Cougar would seemingly be much different, being much smaller yet heavier than my GA. The Cougar also gives me the advantage of real brakes, albeit without ABS (which never even really worked right on the GA). I'm going to stay away from LFB for now.

What is fair game in the RPM band? For daily driving I usually upshift around 4k unless I've really gotta make a quick advance over somebody. Is 5500k a good place to shift when racing? There's no redline on the tach, so I'm guessing its in the 6500 territory. I'm also hoping theres an electronic limiter / fuel cutoff if I do something stupid.

Should I race with the spare and jack in for better balance or keep them out for less weight? With the Grand Am, unless I left some crap in the back of the trunk, I'd have a wheel up in the air dipping into every turn.

[reptar]

The Cougar does have a fuel cutoff (6250rpm? I don't remember for sure), so in theory, you shouldn't hurt anything if you hit it... I try to shift just before I hit that limit... but, like I said, I don't really watch the gages. I'm also on my second engine, so maybe I'm wrong. :shrug:

I autocross with the spare tire and jack out... it makes the rear end of the car slightly lighter and easier to rotate.

Just remember to keep all of your inputs smooth and you'll be fine.

[EricF]

Yes, it has a rev limiter.... but max torque is lower.
only time I would run it up to the limiter would be if
it was a waste of time to be shifting again.

[reptar]

Eric brings up a good point... sometimes it is better to leave it in 1st gear and (maybe) bounce it off the limiter for a few seconds rather than shift to 2nd. For example, if you know there are a bunch of tight / slow corners coming up, you may be better off leaving it in 1st rather than going to 2nd and getting that benefit for a few seconds.

While I'm on the giving advice soapbox... by far, I consider my best modification to the car for autocross was adding a 4 point harness. Not having to worry about being thrown around in the car or bracing myself with my left foot has been tremendously helpful. I think this is legal even in stock class. 2nd best modification was my "racing" seats for the same reasons... I know this is NOT legal for stock classes.

[sonza68]

The rev limiter is up around 7000 rpm.

I'll second Keith on the 4pt harness. I added one over the winter and I've found it much easier to concentrate on my driving this season. Last year I had to worry about bracing myself inside the car, but now I'm held in place pretty good.

I also remove my jack and spare as well as my rear seat (legal in SM). I originally left them in there for better balance, but I've found I prefer the way the car handles without all that extra weight in it. The rotation of the rear seems a bit more predictable now.

[EricF]

For me and my spare, it really depends on the course,
if its a pretty high speed course I'll leave it in.
if its tight and technical I'll take it out... probably just me and
my misguided theories.... but all the same... :)

A+ on the harness, being able to have free feet is worth alot of time..
if you can't bring yourself to get a harness, do what I used to do...
lock the seatbelt, by pulling it hard.. latch it, and then slide seat up to 'driving position"

Have a good day, from the gulf coast....

[PaulDaJedi]

as to the coment about only breaking in a straight line I dont think that is nesicarily acurate. trail breaking is a very effective method where you are breaking break hard then start in on your turn and as your are turning in you are letting off the break and by the time you are at your apex point you are off your break and adding gas. but what was said about not using the clutch if you can avoid it is absolutly acurate. in the cougar we have a REALY nice flat tourqe curve its almost the same all the way acrose the board. so once you get it into second (shifting about 5K is the best blend of tourqe and HP that I have found and also a good launch point) then just drive it like and automatic except go ahead and use two feet for the pedels :-)