Any updates Afterhours?

[Seawulf]

Just wanted to know if you've done any more work on your setup. Have you done any full WOT runs? Have you dyno'd it? How often are you checking the plugs? How do they look? When I was first turbo'd I checked the plugs every day. Have you checked your A/F again? If the ECU adjusted your settings it could have done it again. Keep us posted.

[Afterhours]

Yes, I'm still working on it.........I've installed the MAP sensor and I'm reconfiguring all of my fuel maps for it. As I mentioned in my other post, the PCM's short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT) can pretty much handle the fuel maps during closed loop operations........so now I'm just running the additional injector map based on the MAP sensor.....instead of the MAF fuel map. This seems to work much better. As the fuel map is set-up, it only adds fuel (increases the injector duty cycle) when under boost.....whether it is in closed or open loop operation.

The MAP fuel map is based on MAP sensor voltage and RPM's. I had to do a lot of test driving and datalogging to convert boost psi to MAP voltage. Once I had the voltage values.......I plotted the fuel map and discovered it is much easier to tune this way......:thumbsup:

Since changing over to the MAP fuel map, I've been tweaking the MAF/injector CF (correction factor) to bring the LTFT close to 0%. This takes awhile since the LTFT values are determined by the STFT over a period of time. Because of that, I make an adjustment..........then drive the car for a week, then check the LTFT and re-adjust as needed. It's working out pretty good. Remember, initially I was running rich across the board just to be safe. My LTFT were at -25%............now I've got it down to -10% and I should have it close to 0% soon. Once that's down, I can focus on the MAP fuel map and WOT fuel trims more.

I'm not really concerned too much about the PCM adjusting the fuel trim once I have the STFT and LTFT set. The amount of time I'm in boost (in closed loop operation) is minimal and shouldn't have much of an affect on the LTFT. While at WOT, the STFT is ignored and the fuel map is based on the PCM's data tables. The LTFT is used as a modifier to the data table.....which is why I want to get the LTFT as close to 0% as possible.

I had the fuel maps plotted pretty good with the MAF fuel maps up to 4000 RPM's........but now I'm starting all over again with the MAP fuel maps. I did datalog a few 4000 RPM pulls at WOT, but that is the most I wanted to push it in my neighborhood. I've called my friend (he owns Hawaii Raceway Park) to get some track time for tuning runs when the track is closed.........so when I'm ready I can do WOT pulls to redline. I'll have to wait until I replace one of the Tial wastegate gaskets......it's leaking a bit which is a pretty common problem with those fiber gaskets. I've order a couple of Deltagate "fire-ring" gaskets which will solve that problem. I still haven't had the chance to see if the AFR climbs near redline....which I suspect it will with these 36 lbs injectors. When I get to that point and if it does lean out, I'll have to decide if I'm going to try the Kenne Bell "Boost-a-pump" or run a 5th injector.

I've also been checking the spark plugs once a week....I'm still running the stock heat range, but they look good....not running too hot......but then again, I'm only running 7 psi. I do want to run 1 or 2 steps colder, but damn.....they're hard to find. What kind of plugs are you running Seawulf? Copper?.....how many steps colder?

Anyway, I must say I'm learning a hell of alot about the PCM and tuning. I guess there's nothing like datalogging......making some adjustments......datalogging............and seeing the differences.

[Seawulf]

You don't want to jack up the fuel psi on our engines. The stock fuel pumps aren't that strong and that's a quick way to burn them out. You just want enough fuel psi to give you 45psi, minimum plus exta psi to overcome the manifold boost. I've heard our cars run at 55psi under WOT conditions, so you'd have 55psi standard plus 10-12psi(or however much boost you want to run), that's 65psi minimum. You jack up the fuel psi even more and pretty soon you have a burned out fuel pump. At least one guy on the Focaljet burned out his fuel pump trying to run 80psi on stock injectors. I'd go for the 5th injector rather than the Boost-a-Pump.

As for my spark plugs, DO A SEARCH NOOBIE!!! Ah, I kid, you're a good man. ;) I use Motorcraft AZFS22C(seriously though I have mentioned it in the past). They are the only plugs I could find that are exact matches, copper and colder(one step though). I got them through my local Ford Dealer, special order for around $3 each. Even then some dealers have never heard of them and can't order them. It's kind of hit or miss for some people finding these plugs. You have to order them in a set of 4(duh, but also for computer part number reasons) as AZFS22CF. I think the "F" means it's a pack of 4.

I used to run some different Autolite plugs(can't remember the number) that I got at the local parts store cause the clerk checked the book and said those plugs matched the stock plugs but were copper and colder. I eventually found out the Autolites were actually slightly shorter than the stock plugs. You don't want shorter plugs cause they'll sit higher in the combustion chamber and could not seal properly. So I got the 22Cs.

The only other place to get plugs is through Turbo Tom at http://www.focus-power.com/view.php?showme=New_Products They are expensive though as he has to hand machine them to fit, but he can do it for up to 5 steps colder. He recommends at least 2 to 3 steps colder for 200whp. Eventually I'll scrape up the cash to get some of those.

When you finally do get to do some WOT runs, remember to have enough timing pulled. Do you have an EGT gauge? Keep us posted.

[eric2565]

hey i got a ? for you, wich vaccum line do i "T" into on the intake manifold for a BOV, also what r you guys runing one vented to atmosphere or one that recirculates? i was goinna get one to recirculate but my emanage has some anti-stall feature, i just didnt know how effective it was...

[Afterhours]

Yes, I have an EGT gauge. I'd say it's a pretty essential piece of engine monitoring equipment on any turbo application. It's actually very helpful while I'm trying to bring up my LTFT. After I make a MAF/injector CF adjustment, which slightly leans out the AFR to put the STFT into positive numbers.......the EGT's go up slightly. After driving for a week or so..........the EGT's go back down to normal. This is an indicator that the PCM has adjusted the LTFT to bring the STFT average back down. When I check the trims with my AutoTap.......the LTFT is up a few percent....closer to 0%. That's pretty helpful since I don't have to check it every few days.

I'm aware of the issue of burning out the fuel pump motor if you overdrive it too much. The Boost-a-pump is adjustable from 1% to 50% increase so I would have some control over how much I over drive the fuel pump. The Boost-a-pump is also boost activated after 3 psi, so it won't be constantly overdriving the fuel pump....just while under boost over 3 psi. I still don't know if I'm going with the boost-a-pump or the 5th injector. It really depends on if....and how much the AFR's lean out near redline. If it just leans out slightly....I think I'll go with the Boost-a-pump. If it leans out a lot......then I think I'll go with the 5th injector. Even with the 5th injector, I may still have to use the Boost-a-pump though. I'm not sure how an extra injector feeding off the fuel rail would effect the fuel pressure and fuel flow rate. Anyway, I'll have to work through that when I get to that point.

I know what you mean about those hard to find plugs. My brother-in-law works in the parts department for a local dealership. I had him check on the Motorcraft AZFS22C spark plugs and they couldn't find it listed. I'll have to call him again and have him check again with the F.

I don't plan on putting it on a dyno for while. I'm going to work out the tuning first at the track.......I get the track time free so it doesn't cost me anything to do it there. Once I dial things in.....then I'll take it to a dyno to get some numbers.

How is your set-up doing? Did you get a chance to even out your AFR's. I remember on your dyno run the AFR's were not as even as you'd like it......bounced around a bit.

[Seawulf]

I'm against the boost-a-pump idea. That's why 42lb injectors are recommended minimum for 200whp, so you can run stock fuel psi and still get a good AF ratio. As for your concern of wheather the stock pump can keep up even with a 5th injector or 42s and flow enough, it's a legitimate concern. You won't know for sure till you try it out. For some people though they couldn't get a good AF ratio even with 42s cause the stock pump couldn't keep up so they had to replace it. I've wanted to get a fuel psi gauge installed on my car and it's a good gauge to have. Or at least get the fuel rail adapter so you can hook up a gauge on the dyno to check fuel psi there. I think I'm having fuel pump problems when I get around half a tank or less so I may eventually have to replace it myself. No idea what kind of replacement Foci used but for us Cougars the Contour SVT pump is the prefered upgrade. I say go ahead and hook up the 5th injector now, that way once you start tuning you don't have to stop.


I haven't had a chance to get the car fine tuned, I'm so broke I can't afford to take it back to StreetFlight for a while.

[Afterhours]

Eric, you need to tap into a manifold vacuum source for your BOV actuator line. If you look behind the intake manifold, you'll see a few vacuum lines there. Just put your "T" fitting on one of those lines......then run a line to your BOV as a signal line.

I'm running a 1G Mitsubishi by-pass valve which is set-up as recirculating. Seawulf is running a super sequential BOV which is vented to atmosphere.

The E-Manage does have an anti-stall feature but because of my recirculating set-up, I've never really had to play with it. I have looked at the program's adjustment setting though. It's set through MAP voltages at specific RPM points. It basically clamps a certain MAF voltage at a designated RPM........I'm really not sure it would off set the momentary rich condition when a BOV vents all that metered air out into the atmosphere though. Anyway, you could always try it.....and if it doesn't work well, just change it to a recirculating set-up.

Seawulf, do you know if those that couldn't get a good AF ratio with 42's and the stock fuel pump were running out of fuel pressure or fuel flow volume? Fuel pressure and fuel flow are inversely related....well, I know you already know that....but I was wondering if the lean AFR's are due to a pressure drop at the injectors or an inability of the stock fuel pump to flow the required amount of fuel at the proper fuel pressure? Well, I have the AutoTap to datalog the fuel pressure so I'll be able to look at that later. I'm off of work tomorrow so I'll get a chance to work on it more.

[Seawulf]

I think it was the couldn't keep up the pressure, but ultimately I'm not sure. Remember though this was on Focus's and they also had a fuel pump problem stock, nevermind with boost. My dad's stock Focus recently had his fuel pump fixed because they did a recall on that. Also even if the pumps can keep up they can only do it to around 250whp or so then you need a return fuel setup cause then they can't compensate for quick throttle boost responces without a mechanical FPR.

[Afterhours]

Good point.........I know about the Focus fuel pump warranty (it's not really a recall......it's actually an extended warranty on it)....I also have a 2000 Focus ZTS....:biggrin: Too bad they didn't do that for the Cougars too, since they have the same issues with the stock fuel pumps.

Either way, your input is really good........I appreciate it..........I'll have to keep those factors in mind as I dial in my tuning.

[HKSCougar]

Wow, I've got a long road ahead of me, huh?

Yesterday, I did my first "complete" parts layout. I was missing a few odds and ends - vacuum lines, gaskets, flanges, etc. I ordered what I could online and I am researching where I can get the rest online.

Afterhours, two questions -
1. How are you data-logging the info from your car? That'll be an invaluable tool & come in handy when tuning my SCT program.
2. The oil feed line I've got is a -4AN. What type of fitting & size is the oil galley plug on the black of our block? I'll need an adapter I bet...

[Afterhours]

Leibler, it sounds like you're getting real close to starting your turbo install.........that's great!!

I use an AutoTap OBDII diagnostic scanner and the Greddy E-Manage to datalog engine information. They are both invaluable in providing information on what's going on with the car when tuning. The AutoTap is good for logging information that is PCM related like O2 sensor voltage, Long Term and Short Term Fuel Trims, Engine load, ignition timing....etc. The E-Manage is great for general information like RPM's, Throttle position %, MAF voltage, MAP sensor voltage, injector duration msec and duty cycle %. Either way, without some type of data logging, you'd be basically be tuning in the blind......reading spark plugs can only do so much.

As for the oil feedline...........the oil galley plug on the back of the block is 3/8" NPT thread. The adapter I used is a 3/8" NPT to 1/8"NPT fitting. In fact, you have autometer gauges right? It's the same size as the standard adapter they include with all their gauges. Anyway, if you have a hard time finding one, just let me know......I have an extra one if you need it.

[HKSCougar]

I'm not using the eManage, and I don't have an AutoTap... yet. It might be that I have to buy an LM-1 and AutoTap and eManage and nine other things, but I'd rather not.

Can anyone recommend a complete datalogging solution - if one exists? I'm all about the one stop shop thing.

[Afterhours]

I think at the minimum, you'll need to get a wide-band 02 meter. Some have datalogging capabilities and some don't. The LM-1 does and with the convertor cable, can be set-up to datalog any sensor that puts out 0 to 5 volts. The AutoTap is nice to have since it's an OBDII diagnostic reader with datalogging capabilities and it can also clear CEL's and MIL's.

You really don't need the E-Manage. I just use it since I have it running my MAF calibration and fuel maps....and it can datalog. For me it's just easier to use for general information since it's always connected to the PCM. All I have to do is plug in a cable and turn on my laptop.

[HKSCougar]

I talked with the folks at AutoTap and it looks like that - with the Ford Special Data Package - will do most of the trick. Add to that the LM-1, and I think I'll be set.

I sent my "prototype" intercooler pipes out to be finalized and chromed today. They should be back in a little over a week. ::crossing fingers:: The header is done, the parts all here or will be next week, and I'm ordering the AutoTap and LM-1 first of the month. By that time, I should have everything bolted up and ready to go.

Zetec Turbo #3... soon!

Then it's tuning time...

[ZetecNinja]

did u build your own exhaust manifold leibler?

Just curious, seems like you're getting everything together alot faster than Afterhours and Seawulf.

What do u guys think the chances are of creating a custom turbo without welding (kinda off-topic)? Do-able?

[Afterhours]

I think it could be done with "Minimal" welding.....but not without any welding.

[HKSCougar]

Greetings, all. I have ceased to be Leibler and am now HKSCougar! :evil: HKS parts = HKSCougar. Cool, huh? And I don't mean an HKS seat cover or crap. Wastegate, SSQ BOV, intercooler pipe sections, turbo accessories, boost controller and - once I get the kit working in prototype form - HKS ball bearing turbo and custom intercooler.

I used a JGS Tools log-style header and welded the flanges on. And don't let my seeming speed fool you - I've been consulting with these two, buying parts and researching since last fall.

I'd have to agree about the wleding - minimal welding will be necessary to ensure correct placement of the turbo flage on the manifold and such. You could, in theory, buy a bunch of mandrel bent elbows & pipe sections and spend a ton of money on silicone couplers. You could bolt on the intercooler, buy a bypass or blow off valve with its own flange already on a section of pipe and such. You could then mark desired position of the turbo flange on the manifold and send it back to JGS for welding and finishing. You'll almost certainly need to weld yourself when it comes to the downpipe, though. Even if you just tack weld it in place and take it to a shop to get it finished.

[ZetecNinja]

yea see as far as connecting the piping...I thought u could get away with just using couplers and radiator hoses.

I was thinking about it and it seems like the only thing u really have to weld is the downpipe and maybe the exhaust manifold depending on your setup.

[Afterhours]

You're right ZetecNinja, the turbo project can be designed in such a way that there would be very little need for any welding. The two critical components that may need to be welding is the turbo manifold flange (for proper placement) and the downpipe. The intercooler charge piping could be put together using straight piping and various couplers.....or radiator hoses. You'd have to do a lot of searching to find the right size hoses with the right bends but it is possible.

Don't let the need to have pieces welded hold you back. I'm sure you could find a place near you that could do your welding. If not, I'd be willing to help you.....you'd just have to ship the parts to me and I'll do the welding, but it may cost more in shipping it back and forth than just having someone do it for you locally.

[Seawulf]

In order to do a custom turbo setup with minimal welding you'd need to use a Focus manifold with a adapter or a new flange welded on. And the downpipe will need to be welded, that's a potentially big job, as it also needs to be connected to the rest of the exhaust.

All my intercooler piping is hooked up with just radiator hose and clamps, but the BOV flange is welded to one pipe and my old intake pipe had a small tube welded for a bypass valve recirculation hose. Those will need to be welded.

[HKSCougar]

Certainly do-able, though, ZetecNinja. You'll just have to be creative.

As you can tell, we're all more than willing to help you out.

[Afterhours]

Ok, I've finally gotten around to installing my Steeda Tri-ax/F short throw shifter and replacing my Tial wastegate gasket. With the leaking gasket replaced, I was able to do a few WOT pulls to redline on the MAP sensor based fuel maps.

One thing I noticed was I hit the 5 volt MAF limit at 5900 RPM's with the MAP fuel map, instead of 3500 RPM's on the MAF only fuel map. It seems that the MAF fuel map table was adding fuel based on RPM and throttle position. The table was plotted to pretty much to add fuel across the board from 2500 RPM's to 7000 RPM's by increasing the normal MAF sensor voltage signal to the PCM. Basically, the actual MAF output voltage signal was increased by the E-Manage to make the PCM "see" a higher MAF voltage to increase the injector duty cycle and add more fuel. The only problem with that was the E-Manage made the PCM hit the 5 volt MAF limit much sooner than normal. I was able to get the MAF fuel maps to push through that 5 volt limit............but with that set-up, it was difficult to dial-in the tuning because at a specific throttle position, the engine may or may not be in boost depending on the engine load.

The MAP sensor based fuel map is definitely much better. My datalog of the WOT pulls showed the AFR's at 14.5 at 0 in.hgs and progressively drops during boost to 12.0 at 3500 RPM's......then it continues to drop to 10.0 at 6200 RPM's. The AFR drop is very linear in that it gradually drops from 3500 to 6200 RPM's. At this point, I'm going to have to use the MAF voltage clamp because at 5900 RPM's, I had the same AFR spike at the 5 volt limit. I still need to tweak the upper end of the fuel map........I think 10.0 is just a little too rich, but it did pull really hard though...............:biggrin:

Also, the duty cycle with the 36 lbs injectors was at 86% at 6200 RPM's and it didn't lean out the AFR's.....which is good news.........:banana: If I can bring up the AFR's to a steady 11.0, I should be able to reduce the duty cycle by about 2 to 3%........to about 83 or 84%.

[HKSCougar]

Awesome news, man. Sounds like you're getting into the final stage of tweaking before you start smoking those V6 Duratec guys. :biggrin: I can't wait to see the graphs from a few dyno pull sonce you get the tuning process completed.

[Seawulf]

When you did your last WOT runs, what were your EGTs like and how much timing you pulling with the MSD?

[Afterhours]

The last series of WOT runs were just rolling 2nd gear pulls since I was still doing it on a back road in my neighborhood. The 2000 to 6000 RPM pulls itself don't last too long.....about 4 to 5 seconds or so (which was hitting 60 MPH)....there's a lot going on and I'm keeping my eyes on many things........like the road, tach, speedometer, boost gauge and the EGT gauge.....etc. While doing the WOT pull, the EGT's really didn't climb much. It didn't get much past 1200 degrees, but then again it was just a short pull and the AFR's drop to 10.0 under full boost too. EGT's is one of the few things I can't datalog.....so it's real time data only.

I didn't program any ignition timing retard with the MSD yet. With the rich fuel maps, I didn't encounter any detonation issues. I'm sure as I slowly bring up the AFRs, I'll have to pull a little timing......but at this point, I don't think it's necessary to pull any timing until I start seeing some detonation.

While playing around with my fuel maps, I've noticed that I can easily move the EGT's by 100 degrees by adding or reducing fuel on specific points on the fuel map. What kind of EGT's are you hitting with your current chip's tuning? I'm at 800 at idle..........1000 to 1100 at low RPM (1000-2500 RPM) city driving.....and 1200 at freeway cruise (2500 @ 55 to 60 MPH). Like I've mentioned, even when cruising on the freeway and I roll on the throttle for a few seconds to pass someone (hitting 5 - 6 psi boost) my EGT's don't really climb much above 1200 degrees.

[Seawulf]

I'm running around 100F hotter, but your timing is way more advanced than mine, so your EGTs are good. The problem is you won't get a very accurate reading in 2nd gear, you go thru it so fast the temps don't have a chance to get that hot. An accurate gauge of your temps would be in 4th from 2000rpms to at least 6000. That's the best measure, but it will be hard to do on the street, since you'll hit at least 90mph by the redline, if not faster.

How often are you checking your plugs? I checked them EVERY DAY, when I was first boosted, for the first few weeks then, once or twice a week for a nother month or two. You might not hear deto, so it's important to check your plugs. Takes like 10min max. Don't worry about boot lube or thread grease(sorry can't remember what that's stuff called), cause it will flake off if you check your plugs that regulaly, but use it when your satisfied you have no deto and aren't gonna change plugs till your regular maintenance.