View Full Version : changing back spark plugs
St8LyRaVn
10-15-2003, 08:06 PM
OK guys I was about to get ready to change out my spark plugs and put a set of denso or ngk iridium plugs in. I have noticed that it looks real tight back there on the back 3 plugs. Is there a trick to changing out the back three plugs????
EricF
10-15-2003, 08:57 PM
Well first off you shouldn't use either of those plugs, use the Autolite DoublePlats or the Ford Motorcraft double plats.
Changing the rear plugs is a *****, two ways.
1. Lots of swivles and extentions and do it blind. or
2. remove the UIM, and do it partially blind.. :) and while the UIM is off, you can clean it.
JScullin
10-15-2003, 09:57 PM
You just need a socket, extention & pivot joint along w/a spark plug removal socket. I had no problems changing the rears, I'd say it took 15-20min. It's tight back there but you definitly don't need to remove the UIM.
EricF
10-15-2003, 10:45 PM
Hey I didn't say he definitely had too, but its an option with a positive twist to it... cleaning the UIM.
Originally posted by: EricF
Well first off you shouldn't use either of those plugs
Just curious, but why?
I'm currently using NGK iridium plugs.
EricF
10-15-2003, 11:18 PM
From what I've read on the CEG board.. anything other than
the recommended is a waste and not benifitial
Correct, Eric:
Our induction system uses a "waste spark" type coil, which actually causes spark not just from anode to cathode (conventional negative to positive), but also from cathode to anode (positive to negative). Not sure on the actual mechanics of the thing, but this is apparently what happens.
Thus, both cathode and anode must be of the same type of metal (in this case, platinum) or there will be premature wear, uneven spark, or misfires.
JScullin
10-16-2003, 12:05 AM
Believe it! Got some serious missfires from using Autolites.
Originally posted by: JScullin
Believe it! Got some serious missfires from using Autolites.
Autolite doubleplats?
I hope not, i just picked up a set a couple of days ago..........
ZEXCougar
10-16-2003, 01:55 PM
I didn't even use a swivel when I did mine... The wrench fit perfectly with an 8" extension. 5 minutes tops...
tropiccougar01
10-16-2003, 06:22 PM
I'm running Autolite Double Plats and have had no problems in the 5K i have had them.
JScullin
10-16-2003, 08:21 PM
I had mine for a couple weeks before I started getting missfires, bogging & rough idling. Soon as I put a set of MotorCrafts back in I've been fine since...
tropiccougar01
10-16-2003, 10:56 PM
What were the # of the Autolites? I am using the APP103's and it worked perfectly.
PizzaSlut
10-17-2003, 12:29 AM
Ummmm, you should be using Autolite APP764's if I'm not mistaken.
tropiccougar01
10-17-2003, 03:27 AM
I have searched the boards and some members are using the APP103s. I believe its a step colder plug. Its working for me, and the autostore I bought them from made sure they were right for my car before selling them to me. I know the guy who works there also, so i know he wouldnt sell me the wrong plugs.
DemonSVT
10-17-2003, 03:32 AM
Autolite makes Motorcraft. They're the same thing.
Also it is the APP764's you want to run. The APP103's are too cold.
Also any plug that is not double platinum will wear extremely fast and throw missfires. (like previously stated)
This includes any Bosch plug (POS's anyway), any iridium plugs, and so for where is does not specifically state it is a double platinum.
Morale of the story is stick with the Autolite/Motorcraft DP plugs...
tropiccougar01
10-17-2003, 05:25 AM
You say too cold, but what will happen if i continue to run these plugs? I have heard of other members running the same plugs.
ZEXCougar
10-17-2003, 06:04 AM
I run NGK 2 steps colder copper plugs on a daily basis. The only bad side effect I have had is that my gas mileage is really bad! I use a $6 bottle of octane booster and only the best gas on every fill up and I still only get 16MPG city driving! I think that soon I am going to try 1 step colder plugs and see if that helps. When I used to fill the tank up, I would have like 350 miles, now it is only about 250!!!
Massiv
10-18-2003, 08:44 PM
Bah...
I put NGK Iridiums in in the spring, and I love them. Car idled smoother, ran better. So what if it wears out before double plats? I can *afford* a set of spark plugs every now and then. Don't believe the hype about only running Motorcraft double plats.
Massiv
hay
zexcougar u said that u used the best gas and octane bottle
well our cars are meant to run on 87 octane (unless u have a chip)
u should try using it for a few tanks and see if u get better gas mileage
ZEXCougar
10-18-2003, 09:32 PM
I do have a chip... And I also can't use 87 or i will probably hear detonation with the nitrous. I can't see how a car would run better on 87 than a higher octane even if you didn't have a chip. What is the cause for this if it is true?
CougarBalla2k5
10-18-2003, 09:37 PM
Because the car isn't tuned to take advantage of the higher octane gas. Which IIRC makes it run lean...maybe rich....maybe neither :)
What's the gap for our plugs? Thanks
jec215
10-20-2003, 02:44 AM
gap for our cars is listed on 269 is 1.37 mm. Hope that helps...
Originally posted by: jec215
gap for our cars is listed on 269 is 1.37 mm. Hope that helps...
It does thanks, but there on 269 is it listed? Thanks
Maevin
10-22-2003, 08:05 PM
Octane is the amount of pressure that can be put on the gas before it self ignites from the pressure (dieseling). The higher the compression ration the higher the octane. For NA cars 87 octane will do fine. Not sure about nos. If your using higher than 87 and you smell rotten eggs your using too high an octane. From what I've read it's all the same gas with additives put in to raise the octane. Same bang for all levels of octane. If your car has any knocking try the next highest level. Too high an octane can overload your cat, which causes the rotten egg smell. It's a waiste of money to use higher octane with no benefit to performance.
http://theserviceadvisor.com/octane.htm
PizzaSlut
10-23-2003, 03:19 AM
Originally posted by: Maevin
Octane is the amount of pressure that can be put on the gas before it self ignites from the pressure (dieseling). The higher the compression ration the higher the octane. For NA cars 87 octane will do fine. Not sure about nos. If your using higher than 87 and you smell rotten eggs your using too high an octane. From what I've read it's all the same gas with additives put in to raise the octane. Same bang for all levels of octane. If your car has any knocking try the next highest level. Too high an octane can overload your cat, which causes the rotten egg smell. It's a waiste of money to use higher octane with no benefit to performance.
http://theserviceadvisor.com/octane.htm
There are quite a few NA cars that require the use of higher octane gasoline ... one is the SVT contour. It was just disturbing to me how you mentioned NA cars right after speaking of compression ratio.
Octane levels represent their resistance to knock, (RON+MON)/2. It doesn't represent in any way what additives are or are not in the fuel.
Maevin
10-23-2003, 10:06 AM
I was talking about the average NA car. The higher compression NA cars (if you read the link) will normally have a need for higher octane marked on the gas filler area, by the gas gage and say so in the owners manual. The question is relating to cougars, not higher compression cars in general. If you do mods to your car that raises the compression and in some instances, if you find your unmodded car has some knocking try the next highest octane. But if you think higher octane means more power it's not true. Also by additives, I mean that gas companies add chemicals to regular gas to raise the octane level. So you get the same gas in all octane levels. The power increase for higher compression cars does not come from the fuel but how it is handled.
I figured this being a cougar site, the contour svt people would know the difference.