DanG
06-17-2003, 12:31 AM
So you take your AWSF22FS, gap, and dab anti-seize compound, and install. 5 go in just fine, and the 6th begins to bind almost instantly... Having seen this before, I proceed carefully, and when it doesn't get any better, I pull the plug out, only to find:
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject68.jpg
After I put on a new pair of underwear, I re-assessed the situation, being careful not to let my mind go down the whole "I have a $3,500 paperweight" train of thought. There must be a burr in the threads to have done something like this to the plug. So, I attempt to tap it out. First thing was finding out what size and pitch the threads were. I have feeler gauges, and determined that it was a 1.25 pitch. I figured it was a 10 or 12mm thread, but it was neither. Auto Zone carries a 14mm x 1.25 spark plug repair kit, so $30 later, I was on my way back to attempt to salvage my precious 3L. The tap that comes with the kit is actually a dual tap- The first 6 or 8 threads is the 14mm x 1.25 thread, and then it moves up to the 18mm x 1.25 helicoil thread. Attempting to tap bottomed the spark plug seat on the larger threads before the 14mm one got to the burr, so I make a quick trip to the bench grinder, knowing that I was taking a chance by grinding off the helicoil threads- But I was betting that I could salvage the existing 14mm threads.
Modified the tap, thus, putting a piece of electrical tape around the shank to ensure I didn't start tapping out the seat:
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject69.jpg
So, I move the engine to the exhaust stroke of that cylinder, and hook up the ol' shop vac to the exhaust port via masking tape. I flip the switch, and we're ready to tap without littering the piston top with metal shavings:
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject70.jpg
The tapping proceeded without much problem, and I definitely felt the burr come out.
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject71.jpg
Crossed my fingers, and installed a new plug (there goes $10... I didn't have time to order one from Bill...):
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject72.jpg
And the word for the day is "BOO-YA". It worked- The seat bottomed at the same point as all the others, and the plug is tight. Everyone breathe a collective sigh of relief. I was about to be inconsolable.
On an unrelated note, I got in the 3" Carsound cat:
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject73.jpg
The plan is to have my welder (same guy that did my block) put together a flange for the cat to fit to the Y-pipe, then have a 3" muffler (anyone know what the QUIETEST POSSIBLE muffler is that will still flow properly???), only to reduce to the 2.5" Trubendz after the muffler:
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject74.jpg
That oughta flow like a mutha.
That's all for now- Time for bed.
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject68.jpg
After I put on a new pair of underwear, I re-assessed the situation, being careful not to let my mind go down the whole "I have a $3,500 paperweight" train of thought. There must be a burr in the threads to have done something like this to the plug. So, I attempt to tap it out. First thing was finding out what size and pitch the threads were. I have feeler gauges, and determined that it was a 1.25 pitch. I figured it was a 10 or 12mm thread, but it was neither. Auto Zone carries a 14mm x 1.25 spark plug repair kit, so $30 later, I was on my way back to attempt to salvage my precious 3L. The tap that comes with the kit is actually a dual tap- The first 6 or 8 threads is the 14mm x 1.25 thread, and then it moves up to the 18mm x 1.25 helicoil thread. Attempting to tap bottomed the spark plug seat on the larger threads before the 14mm one got to the burr, so I make a quick trip to the bench grinder, knowing that I was taking a chance by grinding off the helicoil threads- But I was betting that I could salvage the existing 14mm threads.
Modified the tap, thus, putting a piece of electrical tape around the shank to ensure I didn't start tapping out the seat:
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject69.jpg
So, I move the engine to the exhaust stroke of that cylinder, and hook up the ol' shop vac to the exhaust port via masking tape. I flip the switch, and we're ready to tap without littering the piston top with metal shavings:
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject70.jpg
The tapping proceeded without much problem, and I definitely felt the burr come out.
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject71.jpg
Crossed my fingers, and installed a new plug (there goes $10... I didn't have time to order one from Bill...):
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject72.jpg
And the word for the day is "BOO-YA". It worked- The seat bottomed at the same point as all the others, and the plug is tight. Everyone breathe a collective sigh of relief. I was about to be inconsolable.
On an unrelated note, I got in the 3" Carsound cat:
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject73.jpg
The plan is to have my welder (same guy that did my block) put together a flange for the cat to fit to the Y-pipe, then have a 3" muffler (anyone know what the QUIETEST POSSIBLE muffler is that will still flow properly???), only to reduce to the 2.5" Trubendz after the muffler:
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/attachments/3LProject74.jpg
That oughta flow like a mutha.
That's all for now- Time for bed.