sucks to be clueless

[2Scoops]

i've got a pyramid PB788. It says 1600watts bridgeable, but i believe it to be a 500 watt true power amp
could i run this?

Kicker CompVR C12D 12" sub
mica-filled polypropylene cone
Santoprene rubber surround
dual 4-ohm voice coils for wiring flexibility
frequency response 25-500 Hz
power range 50-400 watts RMS
peak power handling 800 watts
sensitivity 86.7 dB SPL
top-mount depth 6"

would it sound alright (look'n to get some positive attention, but not try'n to impress everybody)
also considering JL audio.

thanks!

[blast]

No problems.... The amp will power that sub with out any problem; However, the sound will depend on the box that the driver will go into.

[1aRIDE]

Yeah...it'll work fine. But blast is right about getting the right box dimensions for the sub...don't just put the sub in any old box and it'll sound fine.

[AssassyN]

That would work just fine! And I'd recommend a solid sealed box, around 1 cubic foot...and also, the JL W3 or W6 sub sounds wonderful too, I'd take them over Kicker, but just slightly.

[Sinister]

scary enough...Pyramid actually has a 1200w amp that will do 1200wrms....it's the same board as the Lanzar Vibe 1200D which has been tested to throw out around 1350wrms.



but I'm not in anyway shape or form suporting Pyramid.

[James]

the bass out of those amps is diiiiirty

just dont use any ported boxes if you want your sub to last. Stick with sealed and you should be ok.

[2Scoops]

I'm sick of this BS!

I was pissed off enough when I got everything installed only to find that my MTX's were blown, then when i finally put the kickers in my amp fried (a couple of sparks flew, then smoke came out.....pulled the fuse before a fire started though). Now I've got an Orion HCCA 250 amp(rated @ about 1K watts) to power the kickers. Yesterday we took out the pyramid and put the Orion in and the amp never came on. We took the Orion out and put it in my friends jeep and it powered his 15's fine, but in my car it wouldn't come on. then we let the neg a pos cables touch and it sparked.....so i know powers come'n back there, just my amp won't turn on. I think it's somthin with the remote wire not tell'n my amp to turn on. I been try'n to take it back to the place that installed the CD player and ran all of the wires, but they've been too busy to get my car in (i've been pull'n straight doubles, so i don't have a lotta time to get it done).
It's been almost 3 months that i've been try'n to get my system put in and I haven't heard a single bump from my car yet.
could it be somthin other than the remote wire?
Has anyone had this hard of a time just get'n subs in?
Is there anyone in tha daphne/mobile area that can get me up and bump'n?

-Sid

[James]

you should try running a jumper wire from the 12v common to the remote input on your amp. This will allow you to make sure that your power (and ground for that matter) is ok. If your remote wire is coming from your deck you should first check the voltage (take voltmeter, set to DC, red on remote wire, black on bare metal in car) and make sure there is nothing there. From there remove your deck, see if there are any fuses that could be replaced. If not, then check the wiring diagram and make sure that the remote wire is soldered (or if you had a crappy installer it will taped) to the right place. If so, THEN, grab a long piece of wire, wrap it around the wire connection in the front of the car then take the other end to the trunk and plug it into the amp. If your amp fires up then you have a bad remote wire run in the car and it will need to be re-run. If not then there may be a problem with your deck.

I hope this will be helpful.

EDIT: I'd stop by and help but that's a long ass drive