Relaxitscool
03-30-2002, 12:42 PM
Hello, thought some of you may be interested in a Mod that probably gives the same performance of a Cone filter, but without losing the std car look under the bonnet.
You will need:
1 x pack of 45mm ducting
1 x pack of 60mm ducting
1 x tube of silicon
1 x Quality Pannel filter
1 x pack of plastic ties
1 x Drill bit capapble of 45mm holes (tank bits are ideal, £10 from B&Q)
First off, open up the airbox by unscrewing the MAF, unclipping electrical plugs and releasing the clips. Take the top off, along with the old paper filter. You'll see inside a funnel arrangement. Pull this free. When you've done that, unclip it and split it in half. The lower half will be refitted later.
Then, gently pull the lower section of the box free. This will take a little force but don't worry, you won't break anything.
You should now be able to see two things. A clear passage to the road, and in the wing, the current inlet for air. Line up the lower half of the airbox so you can see where to drill a 45mm hole, this should be just to the side of the rubber lug. Drill the hole, clean the edges. Next, extend the 45mm ducting so it reaches just below the engine. Put one end of the tube so it just comes through the 45mm hole drilled in the airbox and use the silicone sealant to get and airtight seal. Put this to one side to dry.
Now, turn your front wheels so the nearside is facing the engine comparment, or better still take the nearside wheel off. Remove the plastic wing protector on the inner side of the nearside wing.
NOTE. You do not have to remove all of this plastic. It is possible to carry out the next stage with it in place but you do get grazed knuckles.
With this plastic off, or partially out of the way you should be able to see the original air inlet and what appears o be a bit of plastic splitting the inlet into three. Simply pull this away. Now, get the 60mm ducting and run it from the inlet. Push it into the opening and use a plastic tie to secure it. Take the other end and run it down to the front of the car. There is an opening that you can just puch it through. This is ideal as its in the line of moving air but won't suck up water. Again, use a plastic tie to secure it. Replace the inner wing protector. With 60mm ducting its tight, but should fit.
Replace the lower half of that funnel that was in the airbox to start. This ensures you get a good seal through to the wing. Next, replace the lower half of your airbox, carefully making sure that the 45mm ducting goes through that clear passage. Again, use a plastic tie to secure the bottom of the ductiing. I've not positioned this into the airflow, instead just leaving it facing down. However, I can't see any problem with doing the former.
Put your new panel filter in and replace the upper half of your airbox. Remember to replace all wires including the air temp.
Now take your car for a run. The idea with this set up is that more cooler air will always get into your airbox. When stationary, it will suck air from the ground through the tube drilled into the box, thus preventing heat soak. And when on the move, this inlet, together with the air being forced into the airbox from the 60mm tube will give the engine all the air it needs.
I certainly felt an improvement. After a run you can lift the bonnet and the airbox is cold to touch rather than red hot. The cars sounds a deeper on full throttle and it even goes a little better. Total cost is less than £50. Good luck!!
You will need:
1 x pack of 45mm ducting
1 x pack of 60mm ducting
1 x tube of silicon
1 x Quality Pannel filter
1 x pack of plastic ties
1 x Drill bit capapble of 45mm holes (tank bits are ideal, £10 from B&Q)
First off, open up the airbox by unscrewing the MAF, unclipping electrical plugs and releasing the clips. Take the top off, along with the old paper filter. You'll see inside a funnel arrangement. Pull this free. When you've done that, unclip it and split it in half. The lower half will be refitted later.
Then, gently pull the lower section of the box free. This will take a little force but don't worry, you won't break anything.
You should now be able to see two things. A clear passage to the road, and in the wing, the current inlet for air. Line up the lower half of the airbox so you can see where to drill a 45mm hole, this should be just to the side of the rubber lug. Drill the hole, clean the edges. Next, extend the 45mm ducting so it reaches just below the engine. Put one end of the tube so it just comes through the 45mm hole drilled in the airbox and use the silicone sealant to get and airtight seal. Put this to one side to dry.
Now, turn your front wheels so the nearside is facing the engine comparment, or better still take the nearside wheel off. Remove the plastic wing protector on the inner side of the nearside wing.
NOTE. You do not have to remove all of this plastic. It is possible to carry out the next stage with it in place but you do get grazed knuckles.
With this plastic off, or partially out of the way you should be able to see the original air inlet and what appears o be a bit of plastic splitting the inlet into three. Simply pull this away. Now, get the 60mm ducting and run it from the inlet. Push it into the opening and use a plastic tie to secure it. Take the other end and run it down to the front of the car. There is an opening that you can just puch it through. This is ideal as its in the line of moving air but won't suck up water. Again, use a plastic tie to secure it. Replace the inner wing protector. With 60mm ducting its tight, but should fit.
Replace the lower half of that funnel that was in the airbox to start. This ensures you get a good seal through to the wing. Next, replace the lower half of your airbox, carefully making sure that the 45mm ducting goes through that clear passage. Again, use a plastic tie to secure the bottom of the ductiing. I've not positioned this into the airflow, instead just leaving it facing down. However, I can't see any problem with doing the former.
Put your new panel filter in and replace the upper half of your airbox. Remember to replace all wires including the air temp.
Now take your car for a run. The idea with this set up is that more cooler air will always get into your airbox. When stationary, it will suck air from the ground through the tube drilled into the box, thus preventing heat soak. And when on the move, this inlet, together with the air being forced into the airbox from the 60mm tube will give the engine all the air it needs.
I certainly felt an improvement. After a run you can lift the bonnet and the airbox is cold to touch rather than red hot. The cars sounds a deeper on full throttle and it even goes a little better. Total cost is less than £50. Good luck!!