Its in

[AndrewM6097]

the 3L is in and running. Its been a long week! seems to be running pretty good so far besides the check engine light for IMRC stuck open. I'm gonna look into it tomorrow. I have a spare one but is there anything else i should check out??

[cannondalemtb]

If you have a spare one, I would go ahead and just swap it out. It's easy enough to do. If that doesn't work, then I would start wondering what else it could be.

[brapple]

good deal. If the unit is reporting a stuck open code then it is most likely the unit or the cable. inspect the cable to see if it is broken and repalce as needed.

and enjoy the 3L!

[aircougar1]

Nice Job Andrew! very good to hear!

I posted in another section, too, but check to make sure the LIM linkage rod isn't getting stuck on the injector harness near the bottom of the TPS sensor... and make sure you don't have any broken square plastic bushings for the 2 linkages, either...

[COOGAH]

Its in



thats what i usually have to tell the chick i'm with......

[aircougar1]

thats what i usually have to tell the chick i'm with......

and then 2 pumps later, you say.........












I'm Done! :tongue:

[Newcat016]

and then 2 pumps later, you say.........


I'm Done! :tongue:

Ouch, and andrew, just keep ur rpms above 3500 and u'll never know the difference:thumbsup:

[ctmystique]

thats what i usually have to tell the chick i'm with......

Is that because you so small or are the girls you're with that loose? :shrug:

[AndrewM6097]

Argh.... looks like i'll be redoing the timing this weeknd :mad:

[brapple]

Argh.... looks like i'll be redoing the timing this weeknd :mad:


why so? some of know what to listen/observe for if the timing is off

[AndrewM6097]

well im getting a rough idle and a pulsing in 4th gear, no vaccum leaks i can find, cleaned out dpfe, secondaries are working correctly. My snap on scanner says my spark advance is 17 degrees at idle when it should be around 30 as you stated in another post. Seems like im having similar problems that CtMystique was having. Do you have any other suggestions Brian? My snap on scanner can read quite a bit of things like voltage readings on sensors and fuel trims. So if any of those reading would help let me know!

[brapple]

going to have to agree and say the timing is slightly off. How does it start? it runs smooth above 1k rpm right? anything below is rough? the spark advance is to low. I haven't datalogged my 3L but my 2.5 was always around 30. ctmystiques hybrid was around 9 when the timing was off.

[AndrewM6097]

The car starts beautifully, it actually starts better and faster than my 2.5. Above 1k rmp is great with the exception of a slight pulse in 4th gear and im starting to notice it in 3rd now. I'm going to check a few more things monday after work and after that i will dig into the timing.

[aircougar1]

The car starts beautifully, it actually starts better and faster than my 2.5. Above 1k rmp is great with the exception of a slight pulse in 4th gear and im starting to notice it in 3rd now. I'm going to check a few more things monday after work and after that i will dig into the timing.

Well chances are that Roger's timing was off by one tooth in one direction, and Andrew's timing might be off by a tooth in the opposite direction... basically Roger's was too hard to start because the valves may have been closed too long to help start the car, but Andrew's timing is set where the valves are open a bit sooner and it fires up very quickly...

That's my guess, but there is no way to prove that, since getting the timing marks on the chains to line up would take forever!!!! turning it by hand!!!

So, you will have to make sure that the timing is reset and double check that all the marks are perfectly lined up AFTER you set the tension on the tensioners....

[brapple]

Well chances are that Roger's timing was off by one tooth in one direction, and Andrew's timing might be off by a tooth in the opposite direction... basically Roger's was too hard to start because the valves may have been closed too long to help start the car, but Andrew's timing is set where the valves are open a bit sooner and it fires up very quickly...

That's my guess, but there is no way to prove that, since getting the timing marks on the chains to line up would take forever!!!! turning it by hand!!!

So, you will have to make sure that the timing is reset and double check that all the marks are perfectly lined up AFTER you set the tension on the tensioners....

sounds like a good guess to me also. either way the rough idle below 1k rpm and the lack of ignition advance point to a problem in the timing. The lower compression then a hybrid also helps with the easier starting. I noticed this in the case of cannondale's 3L hybrid SeVT ... but the builder used SVT heads not SE heads in that build so it has less compression and is easier to start then rogers car was, but it still struggles to start and has the rough idle below 1k rpm.

[JScullin]

I want a 3l swap so bad....:( Someone take me out for a beat run so I know what I'm missing out on.

I really want to go the s/c route tho.

[brapple]

I want a 3l swap so bad....:( Someone take me out for a beat run so I know what I'm missing out on.

I really want to go the s/c route tho.


sure, if I am at gregs sunday as saturday its going to be raining ...



btw I think my clutch is about broken in .... I nail second gear hard last night and I could feel/hear the wheels break free .... the quailfe did its job to :rofl: it was a nice hard and solid clutch engagement:biggrin:

[ctmystique]

If there's two people one can watch the timing and the other can pulse the starter till it comes close. Then turn it by hand th rest of the way.

Plugs out would help also.

[AndrewM6097]

I just pulled the UIM and checked the injector connections and went over all the vaccum lines and found nothing, looks like i'll def be re-timing. Whoo-Hoo, starting it monday so i'll let you guys know how everything goes. Thank you Brian and Greg for your help

[AndrewM6097]

and now my freakin alt is dead AGAIN, battery light is on constant, mega fuse is fine and fuse #7 is fine. Battery is brand new as of a month ago. Thanks god for lifetime warranties. At least the alt was coming out anyway. This car is becoming very frustrating :mad: but at the same time i love it to death. How does that work? haha

[JScullin]

My alt kept giving me problems because of a clip not holding the wire on tightly. Check that.

[AndrewM6097]

You're talking about the metal clip that holds on the 3-wire connector right? That did give me problems at one time but i put a new clip on it and i checked it yesterday and it was fine.

[brapple]

My alt kept giving me problems because of a clip not holding the wire on tightly. Check that.

You're talking about the metal clip that holds on the 3-wire connector right? That did give me problems at one time but i put a new clip on it and i checked it yesterday and it was fine.


what if the other single wire connector is alittle loose?

[Bigtime2112]

Is that because you so small or are the girls you're with that loose? :shrug:

http://www.playwithlinn.com/Images/funny%20pics/hotdog%20hallway.gif

[AndrewM6097]

Timing is now set, i double checked and triple checked after setting the tensioners. I turned the motor and it turned nice and smooth. After turning i made sure all the marked links were off the same amount of links from they're corresponding timing marks and they all checked out. So now im 100% sure the timing is correct, i REALLY hope this solves my problem.

I ended up breaking a valve cover bolt in the head :facepalm: but i can get it out from underneath its just a pain in the ass. I have to grab it with long needle nose plyers and turn in with barely any room. But it will come out eventually.

I got another alternator under warranty. So now all i have to do is put it all back together and pray she runs right. Doing the timing with the engine in the car really wasnt as bad as i though it would be. I'm glad i didnt pull the engine again, that would have sucked.

[aircougar1]

Timing is now set, i double checked and triple checked after setting the tensioners. I turned the motor and it turned nice and smooth. After turning i made sure all the marked links were off the same amount of links from they're corresponding timing marks and they all checked out. So now im 100% sure the timing is correct, i REALLY hope this solves my problem.

I ended up breaking a valve cover bolt in the head :facepalm: but i can get it out from underneath its just a pain in the ass. I have to grab it with long needle nose plyers and turn in with barely any room. But it will come out eventually.

I got another alternator under warranty. So now all i have to do is put it all back together and pray she runs right. Doing the timing with the engine in the car really wasnt as bad as i though it would be. I'm glad i didnt pull the engine again, that would have sucked.


Good to hear. Crossing my fingers for you that it runs better! :cool:

[fordrule]

congrats drew hopefully it all comes out in the end...

[AndrewM6097]

and the outcome of this pain in the ass task is...... the car runs much much much much better. The car no longer "hunts" for idle and it feels much smoother. The car just feels better overall. It still has a couple hiccups at idle but my 2.5 idled the same way. So i'm thinking i might throw in a spare coil pack i have and see if that does anything.

I hooked up the snap on scanner and my spark advance is still very low but maybe thats just the way it is?? I'm getting a little clutch chatter too, but i hear thats pretty common in these cars, or maybe its because i have a lightened flywheel? I dunno but i am very relieved. Now i just gotta break in the clutch and get this baby dyno tuned.

Greg, i'm gonna try to make it down Sunday if you're available to bring back the exhaust. I'm very sorry for taking so long, i know you have inspection. Will the exhaust fit in the cougar somehow?

Thank you everyone for your help!

[brapple]

great news. mine car hunts for idle sometimes and I have a fairly new iac. It will drop alittle low and jump a few times and smooth out. check the spark advance while you are driving, thats when it should definately get higher

[aircougar1]

and the outcome of this pain in the ass task is...... the car runs much much much much better. The car no longer "hunts" for idle and it feels much smoother. The car just feels better overall. It still has a couple hiccups at idle but my 2.5 idled the same way. So i'm thinking i might throw in a spare coil pack i have and see if that does anything.

I hooked up the snap on scanner and my spark advance is still very low but maybe thats just the way it is?? I'm getting a little clutch chatter too, but i hear thats pretty common in these cars, or maybe its because i have a lightened flywheel? I dunno but i am very relieved. Now i just gotta break in the clutch and get this baby dyno tuned.

Greg, i'm gonna try to make it down Sunday if you're available to bring back the exhaust. I'm very sorry for taking so long, i know you have inspection. Will the exhaust fit in the cougar somehow?

Thank you everyone for your help!

AWESOME! Great job man!

Even my SVT idles that way, usually because of the Lightened flywheel. Are the rpms down around 500-600? I noticed that because of the flywheel it idles a lot lower, and it sounds like it pulsates at idle, but the actually Tach reads even around 550.

Yeah, I will be here Sunday, and some others may stop in too. the exhaust should fit in the cougar without too much problem, lay down the passenger seat, and go corner to corner with it diagonally across from the Pass. foot well to the rear of the driv side hatch... ??? bring that y-pipe/Cat too!!! :cool:

[gring0]

nice man

[AndrewM6097]

How about the clutch chatter? is that something i should worry about? I will be coming sunday so maybe you can listen to it then. Will you need help with anything Greg? I dont have any plans so i dont mind staying for a while. Let me know!

[brapple]

clutch chatter, which is really the incorrect term, its gear roll over is increased when you have a lightene flywheel.

clutch chatter is not a sound but a vibration when slipping/engaging the clutch ...

[aircougar1]

clutch chatter, which is really the incorrect term, its gear roll over is increased when you have a lightene flywheel.

clutch chatter is not a sound but a vibration when slipping/engaging the clutch ...

Actually, those are two completely different things. You pointed out gear rollover to me once. but chatter is a much different noise...

[aircougar1]

How about the clutch chatter? is that something i should worry about? I will be coming sunday so maybe you can listen to it then. Will you need help with anything Greg? I dont have any plans so i dont mind staying for a while. Let me know!

I really don't know what exactly I'll be doing, but I know if its not raining, the interior pieces really need to be sanded down... Casey wants me to wait to do anything on the exterior for now, until Monday.

we'll see. the dash should come out, too.

[AndrewM6097]

So i still have the pulsing in 4th gear and sometimes in 3rd, its only when crusing below 3k rpms and lightly hit the gas. If i step on it, its fine. I swapped the coil pack with the extra i had and i cleaned the MAF (with maf cleaner) and still no change. The plugs and wires are brand new and they're OEM, bought from Bill J. Any other suggestions?

[JScullin]

Give up and put it in my car.

[aircougar1]

Give up and put it in my car.



:rofl: :evil:

Andrew, it might just be a sticky IMRC, or even the TB plate could be sticky???

Seems like you are right at the border of the secondaries opening up, and the fuel is bouncing slightly up and down, causing the pulsing...

[AndrewM6097]

Ok so i pulled all my plugs yesterday and checked them out. They looked perfect, BUT i noticed on the front bank the wires didnt seem to seat right on the plugs. So i looked inside and the metal part that attaches to the tip of the plugs seemed very far up in the boot. I bought a set of Autolites from the parts store and the connectors were MUCH closer to the tips of the boots. I threw these on and it seemed to help out quite a bit but i'm STILL getting a hesitation between 2000 and 2500 rpms. :banghead:

Today i had the hood open while the car was idling and i can hear a very slight hissing coming from where all the vaccum lines are at the back of the engine. I tried the carb cleaner again but idle didnt change, it sounds like its just a pin-hole. The engine was way to hot to stick my hands back there so thats gonna have to wait til tomorrow.

[aircougar1]

Yes, do check again for a vacuum leak...

Gaskets, vacuum lines, EGR, IACV, and PCV valve need to be checked...

Take stuff apart and look for damage... I know the PCV line that goes back to the firewall can sometimes rub on the EGR tube and can slightly melt... maybe there is a pinhole there...

Also, check that your Headers are still nice and tight, because an exhaust leak can give that feeling as well...

[AndrewM6097]

So i've still been chasing this problem, i cant find any vaccum leaks, all my gaskets look good, i tried 2 different IMRC's, new plugs and wires AGAIN to no avail. but today i THINK i may have found the problem, the DPFE sensor. I tried the hack from Focushacks.com (http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=66) and it really seemed to stop the hesitation i took it for about a 20 minute ride and it seemed fine. I'm gonna give it til tomorrow and if it is still fine on the way to work tomorrow i will pick up a new DPFE.

[aircougar1]

Cool trick for detecting DPFE sensor failing...!

Hope that is what is the problem for you man.

Good Luck and let us know!

[AndrewM6097]

well I drove around for a while tonight and the car is still running great! Looks like I'll be replacing the sensor tomorrow. I'll post the outcome afterwards

[AndrewM6097]

replaced the EGR and the DPFE today, cleaned out the egr tube and the ports on the UIM put it all back together and its still the same :mad: pulses in 3rd and 4th. i unplugged the vaccum hose again on the egr and it ran fine. what the hell is going on here.

[aircougar1]

Maybe the EGR vacuum solenoid is going?

The black plastic part that the vacuum hoses all go into on the back of the UIM???

[AndrewM6097]

i replaced that too with another one i had laying around

[AndrewM6097]

So after some thinking.... this must be some sort of a vaccum leak thats causing the EGR flow to fluctuate. If i'm understanding how the EGR works.... it only comes on at crusing speeds and is off at idle and WOT. So if i have a vaccum leak somewhere, maybe the EGR is not opening or closing all the way when its supposed to and its making the car pulse like it is at crusing speeds.

What i want do no next is replace the vacuum tree at the back of the motor with all the smaller lines. Greg, do you happen to have a complete set of vaccum lines lying around anywhere??? If not i'll just have to hit up the junk yard.

[aircougar1]

I might... not sure. I have at least one set for my Cougar ;)