All or Nothing: My 3L Turbo Install

[gamiller]

My dream didn't start out big. Five years ago, I bought a 99 MTX in Silver Frost with the intention of doing a 3L swap. Needless to say, the swap got postponed... until the 100,000 mile extended warranty ran out. Last Spring, I commenced planning the engine swap during. It wasn't long before I came across a motor for sale that had never been used and was built - by Buckshot77 - to handle more than just mild boost. About the same time, the turbo kit by Nautilus Performance became available - the product of a partnership between Warmonger and BurritaSVT. That would be too much power for the Cougar, but I convinced myself that it would help me postpone the purchase of a Corvette a bit longer. Thinking that it would save some money doing both installs at once, and by dyno tuning the car just once, I figured I should put the two together and make it happen. I had been talking to DanG for awhile about doing the engine swap. DanG's impending fatherhood gave me a deadline to work against.

Powerplant
2003 Taurus 3.0L Duratec
Diamond 8.5:1 compression pistons (.020 overbore)
Pauter rods
Clevite main and rod bearings
PnP 3L heads from Kinger
ARP head studs
New oil pump
Upgraded oil pan
Dual-Mode Damper

Transmission
SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch Kit
Torsen LSD
Upgraded shift forks

Turbo Kit
Precision Turbo T3/T4 60 trim .63 A/R
Front-Mounted Inter-Cooler (27 x 6 x 3.5)
38mm Tial Wastegate
TurboXS Type H 38mm Blow-Off Valve
MSDS 2.5L Headers
Magnaflow 2.5" Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter
42# fuel injectors
NGK TR6 spark plugs
K&N air filter
SCT XCalibrator2

For the installation of the turbo, I also purchased the Steeda Batter Relocation Kit. A battery box and fuseless, distribution block were purchased separately.

For the installation of the 3L, including the amazing fabrication work done by DanG, checkout my thread in the 3.0 Performance forum: http://www.newcougar.org/forums/3-0l-duratec-performance/114818-best-upgrade-ever-3l.html. This thread concerns the installation of the turbo kit by Nautilus Performance.

[gamiller]

Plenty of room for a turbo here!

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11627/800/800/50.jpg

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11619/800/800/50.jpg

[gamiller]

42# fuel injectors versus 22# fuel injectors. Bigger is better!

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11622/500/500/50.jpg

Pimpin' ma bling, dogg!
http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11624/500/500/50.jpg

[gamiller]

So many pieces! Now, where are those instructions again?!? :disgust:

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11393/800/800/50.jpg

[gamiller]

Mounting the intercooler. Dan ended up creating custom brackets. I wish the piping didn't hang down so low.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11640/500/500/50.jpg

Motor is in position, ready for the intake and exhaust to be connected.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11631/800/800/50.jpg

[gamiller]

Give that oil pan a lil' tap-tap-taparoo for the turbo oil return. Because the wall of the pan was thin, I screwed a 1/2-to-3/8 adapter onto the 3/8" elbow fitting inside of the pan to act as a nut. Note that if you use Teflon tape on the threads that you must use the type that is meant for gas/oil.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11632/500/500/50.jpg

[gamiller]

D'oh! The holes don't line up for the Precision Turbo! Joey informs me that the holes align for Garrett, Master Power, and Turbonetics.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11633/500/500/50.jpg

[gamiller]

Dan decides to cut and re-weld the wastegate flange on the downpipe to correct the alignment issue.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11634/500/500/50.jpg

The master at work:

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11639/500/500/50.jpg

[gamiller]

Everything fits quite snugly!

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11636/800/800/50.jpg

If installing this kit in a Cougar, note the following:
* We did not use the 3" hose elbow, but we needed a second 2.5" to 3" adapter with clamps.
* We also needed another section of pipe. [Dan, you remember why?]
* We found that the BAT MAF adapter fit better than the one in the kit.
* We did not need use the IACV bung on the piping.
* The BOV needs at least 3/8" diameter hose from the vacuum booster to open.
* Only one lower O2 bung is present. My other lower O2 is dangling in the wind.

[gamiller]

The air filter intake pipe is really close to the tire. I have almost completely worn through my splash shield. When it's gone, the tire will start rubbing against the intake pipe. Hopefully things can be rearranged.

Lastly, the driver's side fog light had to be removed because it wanted to occupy the same space as the intercooler pipe.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11637/800/800/50.jpg

[JAMallott]

Holy **** man! Looks like a VERY clean install! When is it scheduled to be tuned?

[DanG]

If installing this kit in a Cougar, note the following:
* We did not use the 3" hose elbow, but we needed a second 2.5" to 3" adapter with clamps.

This was because re-arranged what went where from the air filter to the turbo.

I think.

Maybe.

I Dunno- Wasn't clear in the directions, and there were no pictures of that part of the install...

The elbow fitting with the barbed hose fitting for the valve cover breathers had to go AFTER the MAF to avoid fouling. Since it was an elbow fitting, I couldn't think of anywhere to put it except right before the turbo, making the turn up and around towards where the MAF was.

* We also needed another section of pipe. [Dan, you remember why?]

I used that section of pipe to extend the air filter pipe down further into the wheel well. It wasn't enough. The angles were wrong for a Cougar- Works in a Contour, I'm sure- But hits every damn thing in a Cougar.

* We found that the BAT MAF adapter fit better than the one in the kit.

Definitely. The adapter could NOT seal to the MAF at any angle- The adapter was some universal plate with all kinds of holes. I would have had to aluminum weld over most of them and drill new ones, ruining the machined mating surface.

* We did not need use the crankcase vent bung on the piping.

Not true- We didn't use the IACV bung on the IAT/IACV pipe section since you had the 3L UIM/TB with integrated IACV paths.

* The BOV needs at least 3/8" diameter hose to get enough vaccuum to actuate the solenoid.

I just want to clarify a bit here- You need to bring the included 3/8" PS hose off the main UIM vacuum hook-ups (using the included universal vacuum "T" fittings to splice in), and bring a 3/8" line all the way around until you hit the BOV- Then reduce down to the standard vacuum fitting to hook up to the BOV, and a second to the wastegate.

* Only one lower O2 bung is present. My other lower O2 is dangling in the wind.

http://www.ls2gto.com/forums/images/smilies/mswerd.gif

[Reebs]

Looks great. Glad I installed it in a Contour. :tongue: I'm sure Joey will work those things out though. That is what we get for being the first few with the kit installed.

[PREDATOR]

Wow... that's a pretty cool setup! What kind of numbers are you hoping for after the tune? :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[StealthyWeasel]

I can has turbocharger?


:drool:

[wanderingmind]

Wow. Very nice.

[mond12345]

I can has turbocharger?


:drool:


Josh, fail English class.....

[Frosty]

Is this completely done or is there a few things left to do?

[gamiller]

Well, she's out of commission this weekend while I get the fuel rail repaired. After that, I have to deal with the 13 CELs before October.

When I removed the fuel rail, I discovered that my injectors are not a matched set. I'll post pics tomorrow. Since Joey can't post here, I'll let everyone know that he replied to my inquiry, saying that's what Precision Turbo gave him. Apparently they did the same thing on Justin's order. Joey also pointed out that the elbow I didn't use would point upward from the turbo, which should result in positioning the air filter higher. I may try that out tomorrow if I have an hour to tinker.

[StealthyWeasel]

Josh, fail English class.....

Joe, I am the master of english.

LOLCAT is not, however. n00b :tongue:

[jaged]

looks sweet, but is that a stock 3L tb i see? need at least a 65mm if not 70mm. itll flatten out the peak of your power curve nicely. its doable with the 3l uim, ive got one on mine right now

[Alkatraz]

impressive

[AndyMan]

Dan is the freaking man :thumbsup:

he had a hell of a time working on my engine too :thumbsup:

[StealthyWeasel]

looks sweet, but is that a stock 3L tb i see? need at least a 65mm if not 70mm. itll flatten out the peak of your power curve nicely. its doable with the 3l uim, ive got one on mine right now

ok, that answers my question :cool:

[DanG]

lits doable with the 3l uim, ive got one on mine right now

Even if you're using the stock 3L IACV? :ugh:

Remember- This setup has the IACV bypass pathway in the TB.

[gamiller]

As mentioned, there were some differences among the injectors I received:

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11641/500/500/50.jpg

If you look closely, you'll notice that the injectors on the outside are longer on top, but the injectors in the middle are longer at the bottom. So they are both about the same overall height, but the body of the injector sits lower in the former case. This makes no difference, if the injectors can be fully seated and the harness plugs reach.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11642/500/500/50.jpg

Notice that the one on the left has three holes at the center whereas the one on the right has one. Both flow 42#/hour, but I have to believe that the spray patterns differ.

[warmonger]

Well I think you guys did pretty good all things considered. I mean the install looks clean and problems were solved pretty well. You did a good job writing it up and we appreciate the unbiased way you are descibing everything. :cool:

Let me write our take on each of the issues you had and describe out in writing a little about our tuning so that people can understand how it all works out.

The only issue with piping fitment was that the precision turbo's downpipe bolt holes were offset about 3/8" further to the bearing center housing than the Garret, Masterpower, and Turbonetics turbos. It seems that all we have to do is machine a small spacer plate with a copper gasket between 1/4-3/8" to provide clearance for the downpipe when using the different turbo.

The other issue you guys had with the intake piping seems only to have come about because the parts weren't put on in the correct order. For our part we'll look at the instructions to make sure that they are more explicit. However it seems that it may resolve itself when the parts are put in as intended.

The injectors: I don't think we were aware that Precision did not use identical injectors. I would recommend looking at it in this way; if the injectors are working fine and not causing any leaks then probably be fine to leave it alone. If you are not getting misfires under idle and cruise then you will be fine because under forced induction and full spray it really only matters how much they flow and that they are atomizing correctly. The number of nozzle holes is indictative ONLY of how the manufacturer chose to achieve that atomization...kind of like two different routes to the store achieve the same result. The only concern you have should be that they fit, and that the impedance's are pretty close. You can check those four injectors and get the average impedance, then compare to the impedance of the other two. If they are within +/- 0.5 ohms then you are good. If they are both outside of that then let us know. The computer is made to adapt to injectors of slightly different impedances as in the case of fuel trims and such. Unless they are off by a lot then it should not be an issue. If you feel unsatisfied by what I posted here, then we'll exchange the two injectors.

As far as tuning. I've already provided a base tune and if you provide a good datalog with all the data I asked for I'll look it over and verify everything is operating correctly. For those of you who are wondering, that is what is included in the turbo kit, a functioning and safe tune.

If beyond that you want to do some dyno tuning with an appointment where I or Joey are standing by ready to make changes then that would be additional tuning costs. We can do it by the hour or do it as a flat rate. I've offered dramatically lower tuning costs than almost everyone out there in order to gain business and build a reputation. You will almost NEVER find a tuner willing to tune on a flat-fee basis due to all the problems associated with it. Most of the experiences I have are that the customers have had mechanical issues on the car and blame it on the factory PCM needing a tune. Then they buy the tune and the problem manifests itself again or in a slight different way and now its 'our' problem. So we still offer flat-rate tuning or we can do it by the hour depending on how people want it, but we specify that the car must be mechanically sound for good results. We'll still tune it but if we run across a problem then all tuning will stop until you get it fixed and then we'll resume. If you don't fix it, take more than 30 days to fix it without contacting us, or haven't made some sort of an agreement with us about re-starting the tuning at a later date, then we can cancel the tuning service at our option.

You may also go to any tuner you wish but they will have to provide their own tunes, we will not provide them with any tuning data. The only exception to this are for our brothers in the United Kingdom and Europe/Australia who have a different engine management system that we cannot tune. In that case we have a tentative deal with an SCT sister company called Dreamscience where we will provide the pertinent data for a tune on our cars so that our customers do not have to suffer through another shop experimenting on their car.

So hope this answers all the questions people might have had. Big thanks to Gary and Dan as well for helping to break this in for the Cougar guys.

[gamiller]

Thanks, Tom. As I told Joey, I'll see if I can rearrange the intake side so the filter sits higher. Since 600 miles have been put on the powertrain, I also want to change the transmission fluid and engine oil.

I don't have any logs yet because my fuel rail hasn't been repaired yet. I went down to the shop this morning, only to learn that they never got around to it. This after telling me it would be ready on Monday, then Tuesday, then Wednesday, now Thursday... :mad: There's another shop to which I will take the rail tonight. Hopefully they have a better work ethic. I would really like to be up and running again this weekend!

[DanG]

Gary- Bummer... I texted your phone on this earlier-

My dad used silver rod on the fuel rail. I wouldn't recommend they take the fuel rail apart if they can help it- I'm afraid it won't go back together and align with the UIM and fuel lines properly. It should NOT be an issue to re-braise the connections (as well as the compression fittings to ensure a permanent fix) in-place. What is the issue exacty?

[gamiller]

As mentioned, there were some differences among the injectors I received:

...

Notice that the one on the left has three holes at the center whereas the one on the right has one. Both presumably flow 42#/hour, but I have to believe that the spray patterns differ.

For those curious, I recorded the numbers stamped on the injectors:

3-hole Injector #01D030B
1-hole Injector #D1163BA

Searching the part # online consensus was such that the 3-hole flows 42# but the 1-hole flows 38#! :eek:

Now, I don't believe I will outflow the 38# injectors, but I have to believe that a mismatched set is at least potentially problematic.

[gamiller]

My dad used silver rod on the fuel rail. I wouldn't recommend they take the fuel rail apart if they can help it- I'm afraid it won't go back together and align with the UIM and fuel lines properly. It should NOT be an issue to re-braise the connections (as well as the compression fittings to ensure a permanent fix) in-place. What is the issue exacty?

As you can see in the photo below, there was a hole between the brass fitting and the fuel rail. I hope it wasn't a result of the fuel rail making contact with the motor mount while driving. Anyway, the second shop to which I took the rail brazed over the hole with silver rod and pressurized the rail underwater to 30 psi - at which point an injector unseated. The compression fitting was tightened up a bit as a result of the pressure test. I picked up the rail last night, purchased some tools at Sears, and then got dinner. I didn't get to commence reinstalling everything until after work today. I hope I can recall from last week how everything goes back together! :crazy:

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11714/800/800/50.jpg

[warmonger]

Good luck with everything!

[gamiller]

Good luck with everything!

Tom, what do you and Joey think about my discovery (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1325143-post30.html)? We can discuss this offline if you prefer.

[warmonger]

Tom, what do you and Joey think about my discovery (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1325143-post30.html)? We can discuss this offline if you prefer.

Hmm, some how I missed that 38# thingy. :eek: Well simple really, we'll exchange them no problem. Not an issue for us because we'll make sure Precision makes good on it for us too.
Where did you get the information that they are 38# injectors though? I want to know the information is reputable before I go ***** them out with guns loaded.

[gamiller]

Well, there are several car forums (e.g. BMW, Z28, LS1) that mention what is what, but the sites that carry the most authority are probably vendors:

01D030B Injectors (42#) (http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=104)
01D030B Injectors (42#) (http://www.racetronix.com/621031.html)
D1163BA Injectors (38#) (http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMODS.asp#weber)

I'm quite curious as to whether the impedances are anywhere close as well, but I won't have access to an ohmmeter until my buddy returns from Cali. Both injectors are manufactured by Lucas, who was apparently recently acquired by Delphi.

Precision Turbo sells both types on their website (http://www.precisionturbo.net/fuelsystems.php). It seems likely that they got the two products mixed up:


Part# Flow Rate Impedance Resistance Open Close Nozzle Spray
041-0380 38 lb/hr High 12Ω 1.660 0.970 Disc N/L
041-0420 42 lb/hr High 12Ω 1.660 0.970 Disc N/L


Tom, would it be unsafe to drive my car with this setup? I should have gone with my gut and looked up those numbers sooner! :banghead:

[gamiller]

Today was going to be a good day. I had the newly-repaired fuel rail in hand along with my new in-lb torque wrench. After torquing down the fuel manifold and intake manifold and plumbing the intake, I pressurized the fuel system about five times and took a look under the hood. Would you believe the other end of the repaired fitting was spitting at me! :mad: Apparently the shop didn't tighten things up enough. I wish they had brazed the threads of all the fittings! At least the fitting wasn't pissing fuel like before! :disgust:

A few turns of a wrench later, the fuel rail seems up to the task of a short drive to AutoZone for some engine oil. I let the car find idle, then show it 1500 RPM for a minute, then I hit the road. On the way out, the car acted like I was power-shifting. The throttle would spike 1000 RPM when I put the clutch in and selected a gear. On the way home, things got much worse...

Twice when I approached a stoplight, depressed the clutch, and put the car in neutral, the RPMs soared to 5K! :eek: HOLY THROTTLE HANG, BATMAN! I feared it would bounce off the rev limiter! It didn't, but it took almost ten seconds for the RPM to come back down so I could shift into gear without spinning the tires. My plan was to change the oil tonight, but I'm afraid the car will try to kill me once I crawl under it. I guess I won't be driving to work next week. :(

The only DTCs I have thus far are the following:
P0172 - System Too Rich (Bank1)
P0175 - System Too Rich (Bank2)
P1000 - Monitor Testing Not Complete
P1405 - DPF EGR Sensor Upstream Hose Off or Plugged

[PREDATOR]

I hope you get the issues worked out... that looks like a killer set up :thumbsup:

[StealthyWeasel]

Yeah, I am familiar with that throttle hang problem.

Let me tell you something- the throttle system is extremely sensitive to changes. I noticed when you have the car completely stopped it will come down, I assume the IAC takes everything over when the vehicle speed is zero.

Is the cable in the EXACT right position?
Does the throttle body have the ability to turn past wide open throttle? (Reason I ask is that if it does, it has the chance to overturn and break the return spring in the TPS, and will make the throttle hang like that)
Have you modified the throttle body in any way?

[FastCougar]

I too experience this and will be replacing my TPS sensor soon to see if it solves the problem.

[gamiller]

Do you guys experience the rev climb as well as the throttle hang? It's as if I stomped on the gas pedal in neutral! Even at a complete stop, it takes awhile for the revs to start to come down.


Is the cable in the EXACT right position?
Does the throttle body have the ability to turn past wide open throttle? (Reason I ask is that if it does, it has the chance to overturn and break the return spring in the TPS, and will make the throttle hang like that)
Have you modified the throttle body in any way?

The throttle cable is in about as good a position as it can be for the 3L UIM. I will check to see if the throttle can be opened too far. No mods have been made to the 3L TB.

[StealthyWeasel]

Yep, the revs rise. Creep to a stop and glide at around 5 mph with the clutch in, and yep, the revs go to about 5k. Once your vehicle speed is zero, they will come back down. Sometimes I had to depress the brake, release, and press it again. Then it comes down.

[BurritaSVT]

Mounting the intercooler. Dan ended up creating custom brackets. I wish the piping didn't hang down so low.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11640/500/500/50.jpg

Motor is in position, ready for the intake and exhaust to be connected.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11631/800/800/50.jpg

Gary
Your intercooler pipe needs to go parallel to the ground you have to push the pipe up and clamp it down when it up and the radiator will push forward a hair. When the pipe is installed just right it will look like this
http://easylink.playstream.com/burritasvt/progressive/turboproject_038.jpg

so you need to install that the cars frame are identical so if you need help let me know I can view some pics you have to see it.

I thought I sent you the pic of the Air filter right and since you didn't use the 90 degree elbow your angles will be off for sure and I know it was the install guide that was unclear but I want to help you get it right reagardless Joey
http://easylink.playstream.com/burritasvt/progressive/turboproject_063.jpg

[gamiller]

Joey, welcome to my thread! :wave:

Yes, when I saw your photos earlier, I saw that you were able to get the pipes into a better position. Not sure I can do much about it, the fit is pretty tight:

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11704/800/800/50.jpg

As I said earlier, I will try to rearrange things if I can. Frankly, I'm more concerned at present with how the car runs. I have some non-automotive work to attend to today, but I plan to change the fluids tonight and tinker throughout the week. Once I get a USB cable, I can get Tom some data logs.

[warmonger]

Do you guys experience the rev climb as well as the throttle hang? It's as if I stomped on the gas pedal in neutral! Even at a complete stop, it takes awhile for the revs to start to come down.



The throttle cable is in about as good a position as it can be for the 3L UIM. I will check to see if the throttle can be opened too far. No mods have been made to the 3L TB.

It's 99% sure that throttle hang and revving of this magnitude is caused by vacuum leaks. Start checking your manifold install, your throttlebody and how it is sealed, the IAC tubing, etc. You guys must be meticulous when you go through the system to find these types of leaks.

Oh, and check your pcv system for complete routing and sealing. It is easy for things to not actually be sealed and still not be able to see it.

[BurritaSVT]

Joey, welcome to my thread! :wave:

Yes, when I saw your photos earlier, I saw that you were able to get the pipes into a better position. Not sure I can do much about it, the fit is pretty tight:

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/11704/800/800/50.jpg

As I said earlier, I will try to rearrange things if I can. Frankly, I'm more concerned at present with how the car runs. I have some non-automotive work to attend to today, but I plan to change the fluids tonight and tinker throughout the week. Once I get a USB cable, I can get Tom some data logs.

Hey Sorry Gary I forgot the site is backwards like CEG I thought you just posted the pics again after we talked on the phone why the filter would not work with the 90 degree elbow left out.

I need to know how many 38# you have and 42# I am going to contact the other three guys and too and I am going to chew some azzz on precision service as a distributor. Apologize on their behalf and mine for assuming they were competent on their packaging. I will send you how many you need monday forst thing once you let me know thanks Joey

[Reebs]

It takes a little bit of tinkering to get it right, but you should be able to fit the feed to the intercooler up all the way without any problems. Yours is going at a funny angle between the fan shroud and subframe which is throwing everything off. Mess around with it some more. Get that thing done and get some numbers for us. :biggrin:

[fordrule]

fricking sweet man.....wish i was still in savannah..i would have gone up to help you...

[noggs]

Just think, when all the kinks are worked out, it will be golden and you will be putting down great numbers! Grats and good luck with the few problems to be worked out!

[Kinger]

I had to use carb cleaner on almost every vacumn connection to finally find my leaking system and reduce the 'hang' in nuetral. Very tedious and it sucked finding it. I bet I went over everything 3-4 times.

[gamiller]

I had to use carb cleaner on almost every vacumn connection to finally find my leaking system and reduce the 'hang' in nuetral. Very tedious and it sucked finding it. I bet I went over everything 3-4 times.

I'm sure I will be doing the very same thing... as soon as I get my new injectors!

[Asymmetric]

Very Sexy clean install!

[gamiller]

Thanks, all, for the encouragement and compliments!

My new injectors are in the mail. Once they arrive I can reinstall the upper and check thoroughly for leaks. My lease ends in two weeks, so for the time being, I need to focus on finding somewhere to live and moving.

Check back around Labor Day for updates. :)

[contrapaul]

Thanks, all, for the encouragement and compliments!

My new injectors are in the mail. Once they arrive I can reinstall the upper and check thoroughly for leaks. My lease ends in two weeks, so for the time being, I need to focus on finding somewhere to live and moving.

Check back around Labor Day for updates. :)

It's labor day, I want my dose of update :biggrin:

[gamiller]

It's labor day, I want my dose of update :biggrin:

Ha! I debated whether to post the update (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/3-0l-duratec-performance/114818-best-upgrade-ever-3l-5.html#post1337301) here or in my 3L thread. In a nutshell, I installed new injectors and fixed three vacuum leaks, but the car still doesn't idle right.

[sheldon729]

I couldnt help but notice that your not using T-clamps but instead your using gear clamps if it were me i would be changing them all to T-camps on the pressure side.

[warmonger]

I couldnt help but notice that your not using T-clamps but instead your using gear clamps if it were me i would be changing them all to T-camps on the pressure side.

It's not like he's going to blow out either type of clamp, T-clamps on less than 15psi is probably overkill unless you like the looks.

[sheldon729]

the looks are sweet haha... got a point but the regular gear clamps done seal as well also they like to cut into the silione coupers:tongue:

[Reebs]

but the regular gear clamps done seal as well also they like to cut into the silione coupers:tongue:

5 or 7 ply silicone couplers FTW! Who cares if the first ply starts to get cut through! :tongue:

[gamiller]

For the money, I gotta agree with Reebs!

I only spent half a day on the car, and she needs a lot more attention, but I got some things done that were overdue.

Since I'm running pig rich, Tom gave me a new tune to try. My assignment was to install the tune and log fifteen parameters using the XCalibrator. I had some communication errors until reading the SCT Forums, wherein I learned that LiveLink 4 is needed to upload the log configuration but LiveLink 3 is needed to download the log data. :crazy: I started up the car and blew soot out the tailpipes, leaving streaks on the driveway. Sorry about that, Ed! :flushed: I bet my cat is pushing daisies... With Tom's approval, I finally experienced the sheer joy of boost. I can't wait until we get the mixture right, and I can put the pedal to the floor as every stoplight turns green! :biggrin:

[BurritaSVT]

For the money, I gotta agree with Reebs!

I only spent half a day on the car, and she needs a lot more attention, but I got some things done that were overdue.

Since I'm running pig rich, Tom gave me a new tune to try. My assignment was to install the tune and log fifteen parameters using the XCalibrator. I had some communication errors until reading the SCT Forums, wherein I learned that LiveLink 4 is needed to upload the log configuration but LiveLink 3 is needed to download the log data. :crazy: I started up the car and blew soot out the tailpipes, leaving streaks on the driveway. Sorry about that, Ed! :flushed: I bet my cat is pushing daisies... With Tom's approval, I finally experienced the sheer joy of boost. I can't wait until we get the mixture right, and I can put the pedal to the floor as every stoplight turns green! :biggrin:

yes Gary
the excitement will only get better as you apply some real boost to that engine you will see when you get to 10psi it get crazy fast. Keep up the gppd work with datalogging and we will get it square once you get the snakes dead......... Gary you have a wideband? this would make things much easier, too. joey

[FastCougar]

yes Gary
the excitement will only get better as you apply some real boost to that engine you will see when you get to 10psi it get crazy fast. Keep up the gppd work with datalogging and we will get it square once you get the snakes dead......... Gary you have a wideband? this would make things much easier, too. joeyYeah Gary ... best $290 I have spent ... thus far :rofl:

http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=283

[Reebs]

Yeah Gary ... best $290 I have spent ... thus far :rofl:

http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=283

Gary doesn't have a wideband!?!?! If this is true, please buy one ASAP Gary!!!

[warmonger]

lol:rofl:
It's like we're back in school..... "Gary doesn't have a wiiiidebaand...."

[gamiller]

:flushed: :cry:

I was going to buy an LM-1 before my motor swap, but I was told by a reputable source on here that I didn't need it. I was under the impression that it was essential for a dyno tune, which I'm not getting (yet). Isn't the Xcal a much better tuning device? It costs twice as much!

[fordrule]

the xcal 2 is for the data logging but the wideband only complements the xcal2. gives a better read on what the af is at . the xcal2 has a input for datalogging from a wideband. i found that out when aaron was tuning my car and we found out about the secondaries. the lm-1 or the autometer c2 af gauge is on my list too buy this deployment.

[BurritaSVT]

:flushed: :cry:

I was going to buy an LM-1 before my motor swap, but I was told by a reputable source on here that I didn't need it. I was under the impression that it was essential for a dyno tune, which I'm not getting (yet). Isn't the Xcal a much better tuning device? It costs twice as much!

The wideband does full throttle reading or anything above 3800rpms where the stock O2's are in open loop. The xcal2 is needed to tweak the full throttle runs on NA and needed period when you are boosting.

[gamiller]

Today was my birthday, and what a great day it turned out to be! My car passed emissions and my registration got renewed just before the deadline tonight. Tom got me another tune, and it's the best one yet! The car pulled strong today! :biggrin: Next week I install my gauge-pod pillar, A/F gauge, boost gauge, and wide-band oxygen sensor.

[FastCougar]

Today was my birthday, and what a great day it turned out to be! My car passed emissions and my registration got renewed just before the deadline tonight. Tom got me another tune, and it's the best one yet! The car pulled strong today! :biggrin: Next week I install my gauge-pod pillar, A/F gauge, boost gauge, and wide-band oxygen sensor.Ahhh .... life is good! :wiggle:

[BurritaSVT]

Today was my birthday, and what a great day it turned out to be! My car passed emissions and my registration got renewed just before the deadline tonight. Tom got me another tune, and it's the best one yet! The car pulled strong today! :biggrin: Next week I install my gauge-pod pillar, A/F gauge, boost gauge, and wide-band oxygen sensor.

Gary that is wonderful news I am thrilled you were able to get into the boost and more than ever pass the emissions wow. So the tune must be running nice a clean to do pass emissions. Gary I can't wait to see some videos of your car too. Hey Gary the 90 degree elbow worked out good? Hope it arrived before that weekend. Joey

[jaged]

this miht be an odd question, but since youre running the 3L UIM when you blip the throttle does the UIM "grow" with all the air getting forced in there. only reason i ask is cause my 05 UIM grows a lot under NA conditions.

I know they are different UIMs all together but since the new one flows more as far as i can tell its worth the look

now that youre getting into boost how useable is the car?

[gamiller]

this miht be an odd question, but since youre running the 3L UIM when you blip the throttle does the UIM "grow" with all the air getting forced in there. only reason i ask is cause my 05 UIM grows a lot under NA conditions.

I know they are different UIMs all together but since the new one flows more as far as i can tell its worth the look

now that youre getting into boost how useable is the car?

not sure what you are asking me about the UIM. did you mean to type growl?

boosting on side-streets is still quite a rush. i wouldn't say there's a lot of torque steer, but i'm wary of the reduction in reaction time available. i'd say the boost is quite usable, although right now it's not coming on strong until 4000 RPM. i think that's likely due to an exhaust leak i developed.

[jaged]

nope i meant grow. when i rev my motor the middle of the UIM gets 1/4" taller b/c the incress in air pressure is making it expand

thats good to hear, how useable for say autox?

[fordrule]

where are the pics Gary? you promised pics........

joeyhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v411/hells/more/23_6_102.gif






http://www.buddy-icons.info/img/smile/1639.gif
http://www.curevents.com/vb/images/smilies/worth.gif

[gamiller]

nope i meant grow. when i rev my motor the middle of the UIM gets 1/4" taller b/c the incress in air pressure is making it expand

thats good to hear, how useable for say autox?

are you thinking of competing with a turbo? i was thinking today about whether i could compete in your class if i locked open my wastegate so that no boost was achieved. ha! how about that then, the car could compete on a road course as well as a drag strip! :cool:

well, my cat must be female, because i haven't noticed any swelling under the hood! :flushed: seriously, though, I'll look for a swelling next time. a mechanic warned me that the composite upper would not handle more than 14 psi or so. anyone with forced induction had a problem with this yet?

Driving around town today, I found two more things to tweak. First, my A/C has been rendered useless by the air-to-air intercooler. Hopefully the Fall will usher in cooler temperatures here in Hot-lanta. I wonder if there's some way to help the A/C be more effective. Anybody? Secondly, my dash buzzes whenever my engine is hard at work. I think I can reduce such vibrations by firming up my roll restrictors (a.k.a. motor mounts), which are currently stock. I took a trip out to McMaster-Carr to pick up "solid" urethane that should cure in under two hours and withstand 9000 psi. I hope 85D is not too harsh. Pole120 from the CEG used 94A "flexible" urethane.

So, my To Do List now contains a mere seven items:
* Replace MAF and capture data
* Remove, fill, and reinstall roll restrictors
* Install Nautilus rear brake kit
* Install wideband oxygen sensor
* Install gauge pod and gauges
* Install aluminum pedals
* Replace driver's seat leather
* Replace e-brake cable

Pics requested will be posted tonight.

[FastCougar]

94A is hard as a rock ... 85D should be a good compromise with more flex.

[gamiller]

lol :rofl:
It's like we're back in school..... "Gary doesn't have a wiiiidebaand...."

Guys, guys! I just got a wideband! I also ordered that mini-DIN cable to connect the wideband to the Xcal2. Am I now cool enough to join your club?!?

thats good to hear, how useable for say autox?

The boost doesn't build until ~3000 RPM and isn't full on until ~4000 RPM. I would think you would want it sooner for autocross. i was given a .60/.63 turbo.

[warmonger]

Gary,

All a matter of a simple turbo change....but you'd lose the smooth progressive onset of boost and probably deal with wheelspin like crazy.
If you have a good boost controller then you can run low boost with a different turbo for the lower gears then kick it up when you hit the straights.

[gamiller]

Gary,

All a matter of a simple turbo change....but you'd lose the smooth progressive onset of boost and probably deal with wheelspin like crazy.
If you have a good boost controller then you can run low boost with a different turbo for the lower gears then kick it up when you hit the straights.

Don't get me wrong, Tom. Although Joey told me I was getting a 57 trim, the one I got is probably better for my setup for two reasons. First, I won't get into boost when driving around the city. Second, I can actualize more of the untapped potential of my Buckshot-built motor. I'm just afraid this turbo is gonna have me craving more top end, meaning I'll be upgrading cams, LIM, UIM, TB, and MAF this Spring. :crazy:

EDIT: I couldn't wait until Spring. MAF upgraded to 90mm!

[warmonger]

Don't get me wrong, Tom. Although Joey told me I was getting a 57 trim, the one I got is probably better for my setup for two reasons. First, I won't get into boost when driving around the city. Second, I can actualize more of the untapped potential of my Buckshot-built motor. I'm just afraid this turbo is gonna have me craving more top end, meaning I'll be upgrading cams, LIM, UIM, TB, and MAF this Spring. :crazy:

57 trim and 60 trim are almost the same in terms of spoolup if the exhaust housing is the same. THe 60 trim gives the same low end response with better top end. We've been trying to move away from the 57 trim for this reason.
For faster spool we size the exhaust housing but the 60trim compressor is the best of the T3/4 series.
I assume you have the .63 exhaust?
That should be quite good once you start boosting to 10-12psi. You won't want any more power down low. lol

[gamiller]

This is a stub. Come back next week. :wave:

[gamiller]

Today I received the Ford 90mm MAF and adapter I ordered. The adapter is CNC aluminum with a 4" diameter. No gasket came with it, so I'll sandwich some RTV in between after I've tested the setup. The real nuisance is that if I wasn't going to have it this weekend unless I personally made a trip out to the UPS distribution center outside the city to retrieve my package. Apparently somebody in shipping overlooked my apartment number and didn't include it on the shipping label. :mad:

At least I have all the critical pieces together, including a 4" to 3" reducer coupler that Joey overnighted. [Thanks, bro!] Hopefully the rest of Joey's handiwork will show up tomorrow.

[gamiller]

Looks like the 90mm MAF is a go! It fit under the hood just fine along with a 4" open element air filter I picked up from AutoZone. The new 3" cold air intake piping, however, didn't fit any better than the 2.5" piping it would have replaced, so the open element filter will remain under the hood until I can visit an exhaust shop. Tom's tune ensured that the engine would be pleased with its enlarged orifice, but DTCs cut my initial test drive short. In addition to the recurring code for EGR flow, I also got a DTC for a shorted TPS sensor. Sure enough, a wire leading from the TPS had melted against the EGR. One of these days I will learn to tie all hoses and wires away from the EGR. :banghead:

Tip #3: Tie all wires and hoses away from components that are either hot or moving.
Tip #4: Home Depot only carries clamps up to 4" in diameter, but Lowe's stocks 4" and 5" clamps. :cool:

[fordrule]

it will be ok gary..zip ties are your friend

[gamiller]

where are the pics Gary? you promised pics........

:needpics:

This one's for you, Joe!

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/12169/800/800/50.jpg

[fordrule]

sexy gary....love the sleeper-esk .....

[gamiller]

sexy gary....love the sleeper-esk .....

i've been thinking about replacing the fog lights with ram air ducts. one would go to the air filter where my battery used to be, the other would go to the alternator.

[gamiller]

Tom is back in Iraq, and I still haven't received the cable for connecting the XCal to my wideband, so fine tuning will be on hold for the time being.

Before I can turn my attention to interior mods, the need for repair work has arisen:

A worm clamp cut through the boot on my valve cover breather line.
I have a coolant leak from the vicinity of the water pump. Since the pump itself was replaced during my engine install, the pump housing will be replaced.
The front sway bar end link boot is torn wide open. On order from BAT.
The strut nut no longer stays tight against the camber adjustment kit. Hopefully washers will make all the difference, but I'll still need an alignment.

[gamiller]

I am *so* overdue to post an update. Five months have blown past already. I'd be all set if not for being distracted with other goals: house hunting, moving, job hunting. Then just when i finally get something done on the car, BOOM! An accident happens. :banghead:

I let my guard down one Friday night when backing out of my usual parking spot in the underground garage where I live. Not a second after I let out the clutch, the car came to a halt as the fender met with the support column, knocking the side mirror clean off. :( Super glue worked wonders for that. Just be sure to have some nail polish remover on hand in case your fingers get stuck together. ;)

When it came time to leave Atlanta, I figured means to move the Cougar that would put the least wear on it would be to trailer it behind the moving truck. Now, officially, Penske declares the Cougar to be too low a car for loading onto the trailer. To confirm this, I visited Penske myself. With the help of a mechanic, I was able to get the car onto the trailer without issue. :cool: As fate would have it, when I attempted the same feat at 4 AM after loading the truck, I ran into some difficulty (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/problems/122677-replacing-fuel-brake-hard-lines.html), resulting in the fuel and brake lines being tweaked. :mad:

Since then, I haven't done much on the car, but I hope to make major improvements over the summer.

[devildog]

Looking forward to the update. I am wanting to do the 3L swap and turbo it when i get back from iraq next spring.

[DanG]

Gary-

Did it just take some "fiddling" to get the I/C inlet pipe straight around the frame and past the shroud? It's been a while, but it looks like it's all hidden nicely.

[SingleShot]

**** Gary you need to come back to GA to let me see that beautiful machine again! You didn't even get on it so I could hear the BOV :mad:! Lol Ohwellz maybe ill see you around CF if I can go.


Good luck man!

[gamiller]

Dan: Just had to give the pipe a shove after loosening the clamps. We should catch up sometime, if for no other reason than to admire your handiwork. :) Lots more to do, but I'll make the time. I will no longer be a slave to the grind come May 1.

Edward: Sorry I couldn't give you a ride that day. The car won't see boost again until after this weekend when I reroute the PCV. I just came back from Advance Auto Parts with some vacuum caps and a hose segment.

[fordrule]

uh oh i have a feelin gary will havve big updates of his beast up and running. glad to hear gary that you are still mosing along. Its kinda like ur the trial and error guy with the stage 3 kit. its good and bad, well good for us and bad for you. but we all love u gary. but with dan and topik and trevor up there, you should be in good hands.

[gamiller]

[I've been helping my friend with his various projects. We towed two of his Supras out to the sticks where nobody will care whether or not they run. Then we parted out a Fiero so that he could upgrade his daily driver. This weekend we replaced the timing belt on his brother-in-law's Passat V6. PITA! Everything forward of the engine must be removed to get to the timing cover. :facepalm:]

The breather line that got cut through was handily repaired using this . Worked like a champ and beat having to buy that overpriced, crooked, breather line from Ford! I still can't seem to keep the DPFE hose connected to the EGR tube; it keeps blowing off. I need to find a corbin clamp that will hold it.

The leak from the water pump should stop once the housing is replaced (http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=9480) with one that has a fixed restrictor plate. [FYI, for the price of an aftermarket water pump, you could order a pump from Ford that comes with the housing. No brainer!] Once installed, it will enjoy drinking coolant chilled by an SVT radiator I got from Reebs. :) This tool should make the job a snap! (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947390000P)

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00947390000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0 (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947390000P)

Trevor inspired me to do something about my oiling issue. I ordered a pair of catch cans from the highly-regarded Saikou Michi. Since the valve cover breathers flow into the block but the PCV valve flows out the block, they need separate catch cans. These baffled cans (http://www.saikoumichi.com/REV_C_SECTION_publish.jpg) should do nicely!

http://www.saikoumichi.com/Split_Evolvd_gallery.jpg

I've also pretty much decided how I'm going to resolve the issue of the PCV valve seeing pressure from the outside the block, something it was not designed to handle. First, I'm going to replace the stock PCV valve with one from a car turbocharged from the factory: SVO Mustang, Buick Grand National, Supra or something more modern, such as an Evo, Speed3, or WRX. That should allow it to seal tightly when under boost, preventing air from getting into the crankcase through the valve. That solves one problem but creates another: with the valve sealed, the crankcase cannot vent excess pressure. I'm going to solve this problem the way Subaru did on the WRX by using a second PCV valve that vents to the air intake ahead of the turbo. So when not under boost, the crankcase vents following the stock route, and when under boost it vents into the induction system.

Now I just need to figure out what the source of fresh, metered air will be for the valve cover breathers...

[jaged]

psssst. i didnt sell you a svt rad

[gamiller]

I've been collecting parts while preparing to overhaul my suspension. Everything arrived the weekend before last, but I postponed progress in order to checkout Andy's supercharger install (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/forced-induction/127002-avert-thine-eyes-andyman-s-c-build-thread.html). In addition to heckling DanG, one of the things we did was to fill roll restrictors with 60A urethane from McMaster Carr (http:www.mcmaster-carr.com). Mine are below. Not too shabby! Duct tape FTW:

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/13025/500/500/50.jpg

Last night, I started overhauling my front suspension. There has been a terrible clunk from the passenger side and the driver's side CV boot was leaking, so I decided I would go ahead and replace everything: struts, strut bearings, control arms, half shafts, and sway bar bushings.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/13029/500/500/50.jpg

Things were chugging right along: half shaft out, ball joint out, wheel knuckle off, strut assembly out, control arm... not coming out. The subframe bolt is just spinning in place b/c the nut detached from the frame. :mad: At least I found a couple of workarounds (http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=33538) that I will attempt tomorrow.

Show and Tell: Exhibit A
Evidence for the passenger side clunk: broken strut mount from the BAT camber kit.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/13027/500/500/50.jpg

Show and Tell: Exhibit B
Which of these struts is not bad? Hint: which one still pushes out the piston?

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/13026/500/500/50.jpg

[Topik]

I've been collecting parts while preparing to overhaul my suspension. Everything arrived the weekend before last, but I postponed progress in order to checkout Andy's supercharger install (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/forced-induction/127002-avert-thine-eyes-andyman-s-c-build-thread.html). In addition to heckling DanG, one of the things we did was to fill roll restrictors with 60A urethane from McMaster Carr (http:www.mcmaster-carr.com). Mine are below. Not too shabby! Duct tape FTW:

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/13025/500/500/50.jpg

Last night, I started overhauling my front suspension. There has been a terrible clunk from the passenger side and the driver's side CV boot was leaking, so I decided I would go ahead and replace everything: struts, strut bearings, control arms, half shafts, and sway bar bushings. Things were chugging right along: half shaft out, ball joint out, wheel knuckle off, strut assembly out, control arm... not coming out. The subframe bolt is just spinning in place b/c the nut detached from the frame. :mad: At least I found a couple of workarounds (http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=33538) that I will attempt tomorrow.

Show and Tell: Exhibit A
Evidence for the passenger side clunk: broken strut mount from the BAT camber kit.

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/13027/500/500/50.jpg

Show and Tell: Exhibit B
Which of these struts is not bad? Hint: which one still pushes out the piston?

http://photos.edebris.com/catalog/photo/13026/500/500/50.jpg



Gary I suffered the exact same issue from my camber kit as well. God awful clunk

[gamiller]

Gary I suffered the exact same issue from my camber kit as well. God awful clunk

Sheesh! Sounds like the product wasn't put together so well. I am installing new, OEM, strut mounts in place of the camber kit. What are you using for a strut mount when you install your coil-overs? BTW, there's a thread at CEG that mentions that the KSport coil-overs now feature a tab for the pinch bolt. :cool:

[AndyMan]

wow... ur rubber fillers look better then mine... i'm jealous now. Ha

[gamiller]

wow... ur rubber fillers look better then mine... i'm jealous now. Ha

I took a picture of the pretty side. The back side has the pattern left behind from the tape. FYI, the duct tape did a better job than the masking tape at keeping the urethane from leaking out. But your mounts should be as effective as these.

I spent half the day yesterday trying to free a nut from the end link bolt through the strut. SOB just kept spinning in place. I ended up taking a Dremel to it with a cut-off wheel. After breaking three wheels on it, I sawed through the last of the nut with a hacksaw. The threads were pretty messed up afterward, so I found a M10X1.5 die and cut new threads. The new nut spins right on. :thumbsup: Of course, if time was money, it would have been wiser to just buy a new end link. :facepalm: