Best Subs

[dalaster88]

I'm looking for what people think is the best sub for the buck. Budget is 700 with nice Amp. Open to any suggestions. Also up for decent used ones.

[cvsmightymouse24]

i have 2 12inch rockford fosegate P2's in a box that is carpeted and ported for sale for 250 obo!

[MOMO]

I would stay away from used ones.

for 750, you can get a great set up.

I am partial to Memphis amp... you can get a nice mono amp from memphis (around 1000 rms 2 ohm load) with a decent 12 inch sub (kicker CVX or Eclipse) for what you have as your budget.

[cvsmightymouse24]

they are pratically brandnew.........not even used for a month before i went with a different set-up!!

[dalaster88]

I'm looking for two 10" - 15" Subs, no box cause I'm building a custom one and a 2 Channel Amp

[Frizzle86]

This is a company i was told to take a look at over at another forum.

http://www.edesignaudio.com

Their stuff is priced well and from what i've heard n was told a good sub maker.

I am going to be getting a 10" sub from these guys soon.

[seaneyo99]

This is a company i was told to take a look at over at another forum.

http://www.edesignaudio.com

Their stuff is priced well and from what i've heard n was told a good sub maker.

I am going to be getting a 10" sub from these guys soon.



Im going to have to second with him! Their stuff is awesome! Rock solid amps and thier subs sound amazing!

[Foreverfalcon40]

look on ebay, once you decide, amzing prices and you can insure forup to three years thru square trader. Make sure the seller of the auction is a squaretrade meber first.

[smbmxr3]

+1 to ed's stuff

[mandy]

i have 2 12inch rockford fosegate P2's in a box that is carpeted and ported for sale for 250 obo!

Rockford is an awesome make I have 2 12inch P1's that sound great, I've heard the P2's and they sound great, depending on how used these are, 250$ is pretty decent

[dalaster88]

Bought....

I bought 2 12" CVR for 300 including amp and box...

[Drewmanfu0]

What kind of amp?
An decent amp for 300 alone is unheard of. Look at the dollar per watt before you buy.

[seaneyo99]

The Elemental Designs NiNe.1 is $350 correct me if im wrong. RIght near 1500 watts at 1 ohm 900 at 2. Yeah take a look at it!

[smbmxr3]

yeah the nine.1 is a beast. I run mine at .67 ohm daily, and many people run them lower than that daily. Has taken a beating for close to two years with no complaints

[scrupul0us]

i have two old school JL 12" 8-ohms running off a 400 watt bazooka amp in a ported bandpass... def tasty beats in my trunk

[Frizzle86]

looking for a cheap amp?

Again i was refrenced to these guys for an exceptionaly cheap amp.

http://www.profilecaraudio.com/amplifiers.htm

note there are betters out there but for the price its hard to beat. :D

[EternalOne]

Car audio is one place where you get what you pay for...always.

The components that make up my amps cost upwards of $600 -- just for the components themselves. There is a big difference to an audiophile when listening to cheap vs quality components, I can pick out cheap components from 50' away, just by the sound.

You want the best? Stick with the best. JL or Orion, 2nd choices would be a top-level brand, such as Pioneer (who've gotten better lately), RF, Kicker, etc. I stay away from Memphis, because of their history with cheater subs and lying about power ratings.

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[Drewmanfu0]

Car audio is one place where you get what you pay for...always.

The components that make up my amps cost upwards of $600 -- just for the components themselves. There is a big difference to an audiophile when listening to cheap vs quality components, I can pick out cheap components from 50' away, just by the sound.

You want the best? Stick with the best. JL or Orion, 2nd choices would be a top-level brand, such as Pioneer (who've gotten better lately), RF, Kicker, etc. I stay away from Memphis, because of their history with cheater subs and lying about power ratings.

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E1

Totally agree, I can pick out who has quality stuff in their car. I have no bias toward anything in particular, but I would stay away from anything that has chrome on it. Also any cheap old school amp will far out beat any audiobahn or lightning audio crap. I just sold an oldschool 50X2 amp on ebay for 100 bucks and it will pound a set of 10's. You truly get what you pay for.

[smbmxr3]

Car audio is one place where you get what you pay for...always.

The components that make up my amps cost upwards of $600 -- just for the components themselves. There is a big difference to an audiophile when listening to cheap vs quality components, I can pick out cheap components from 50' away, just by the sound.

You want the best? Stick with the best. JL or Orion, 2nd choices would be a top-level brand, such as Pioneer (who've gotten better lately), RF, Kicker, etc. I stay away from Memphis, because of their history with cheater subs and lying about power ratings.

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E1

Or you can always find some high end Arc or Tru amps, or the old US amps, brax, and anything ZED audio...thats true audiophile quality stuff, except all of its well over 1k per amp normally. Atleast with an amp, it doesn't make near as much of a difference as say a set of components. A big factor for amp is %thd and no amps these days even put out near 1% and the human ear cannot really hear i think its below like 4% so pretty much if it puts out rated power and is durable then its a decent amp. Now don't get me wrong there is a difference, but there would be a hell of a lot more of a noticeable difference in say a $800 set of components and a $200 set than a $800 amp and a $200 amp(if both amps truly put out rated power). I'm not disagreeing with your statement that you get what you pay for in car audio at all though, that is very true

[EternalOne]

Oooh what I wouldn't do to have my old Macintosh back... Or my original Orion 2250... (drool)

My problem with the cheaper amps comes from the user, usually. They see the rated power, and figure its going to put that out all the time. So then when their 1000 watt amp sounds like crap next to my 25 watt Orion they crank up their gains and start clipping, or passing distortion thru -- and it all goes to hell from there... ;)

There are many "rules" to follow in car audio, but the two main ones we always told customers back in the day were:

You get what you pay for.

I will put my $1000 25 watt amp up against anyone's $200 1000+ watt ebay special any day of the week. =)

Manufacturers lie about wattage, check the stats.

Stats cannot lie, this goes for subs and amps (although both are a pain to decipher). For amps the main stats are: Frequency Response, Signal to Noise Ratio, Harmonic Distortion, and the Damping Factor. Be wary of any amp that does not list all stats, or how the stats were obtained. (Ie, many pages rate their amps THD at a lower than rated power to make the amp seem better than it actually is.)

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[megail]

i love my alphasonik mayhem 900.
a little out of your price range though....unless you get it direct from the manufacturer.
its also a bit heavy. like 45 lbs without a box.

[EternalOne]

Yeah, my subs are heavy as hell, too. I actually broke my rear axle in two in my Sportage when I had the 4 12's in the wall, ended up having to build a full upper and lower bridge, like we did for our competition dancer vehicles. When we weighed the truck we figured the stereo weighed in at well over 1500 lbs total, well beyond the rated cargo weight, thus they didn't cover the axle under warranty. :P All boxes that are built for these subs also require (at a bare minimum) 2 sheets of 3/4" MDF for the face of the box, to handle the weight of the subs.

I think I have a pic of the Kia's stereo someplace... Ah, found it, but it's not the best pic. :P Gotta look past the chicks to see the wall, but you can see the bright signature red Orion amp in there. =)

http://www.rumodded.com/images/eternalone/good_2b_eternalz.JPG

You can also get an idea of where my screenname comes from here. ;)

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[megail]

i built a floor/box in a mustang a few months back. had to weigh somewhere in the 3-400 pound range. it was awesome, so well built that when he got t-boned it held in tact and the only part that was stressed was the face plate towards the front of the car. and it only stressed because it was held in by only 2 screws.

the bigger the better is usually true with subs and boxes, just as long as the dimensions are correct.

and damn man, thats a hell of a wall.

[Drewmanfu0]

You stole my thunder with the alphasonik, I have one 800 series right now but am going with 3 of them in the near future. Ahhhhhhhh... 1/2 ohm bridged into an Opti 50c, this thing is going to pound.

[megail]

ha, the 900 is significantly better than the 800's. i did an install of 4 of them into a buddies a while back, and when i got my 900 i couldn't have been more amazed by how much louder, clearer and the amount of air it moved just threw me back.

don't get me wrong the 800's will be loud as hell and well worth the money, but if you can get your hands on one or TWO 900's you'll be in love my friend.

[DBryden]

If you want my opinion, buying used isn't ALWAYS a bad idea if you know what you're doing. Like how to feel a sub for broken coils, test amp channels, stuff like that. BUT, systems aren't like cars, you cant just look up online and see everything in your area...so for you, i'd say buy new.

I sold my old setup for $350.
-Infinity 1200.1 amp...1000 Watts RMS at 13 volts, 4 ohms. But I ran it at 2 ohms...1300 Watts RMS at 13 volts.
-12" Kicker L7 in kicker's ported box. System was 2 months old.
-All kicker wires, power/ground, speaker wire, rca wires and everything

That was more than enough for me. Good cheap systems are out there, just have to look.

My amp was OK, but i REALLY liked my Sub. Kicker stuff sells cheap on EBay, brand new. Check em out sometime.

As for an amp, listen to these guys, they know more than me on that subject.

[EternalOne]

i built a floor/box in a mustang a few months back. had to weigh somewhere in the 3-400 pound range. it was awesome, so well built that when he got t-boned it held in tact and the only part that was stressed was the face plate towards the front of the car. and it only stressed because it was held in by only 2 screws.

Heh, yeah its amazing how heavy MDF actually is. And that's cool **** that it survived a wreck like that! Damn well built!

the bigger the better is usually true with subs and boxes, just as long as the dimensions are correct.

and damn man, thats a hell of a wall.

Hehe, yeah that one had two seperate enclosures at the top, one for each set of 12's. Each enclosure was 5 cuft of airspace each, with 1" bulletproof-grade plexi as the back wall for viewing of the subs, then backlit via neons. The bottom of the wall held the battery rack, which held 6 deep cycle marine batteries. So all the space actually was used. ;)

But yeah, in the end the weight killed the axles, and then shortly after that I pulled the wall and (you'll love this)... installed a 10-switch airbag setup. Boy was that a blast...

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[racerx]

I agree with E1 here. JL or Orion. gotta love the HCCA subs or the W7's. lol As for Amps, like E1 said, you get what you pay for. I have always had a soft spot for the MMATS amps, talk about ignorant power without having something built custom (E1) lol. You want some serious beats, get the DH1200C, I think it cost around $1200........

[Wastedkid]

I have one RE XXX 12 powered by 2 zapco 750's and it sounds good. But i never hear about anyone else running either RE or zapco.

[smbmxr3]

I thought about getting one of the new 06 XXX's to play with, I'm still looking around waiting for someone selling one used at a good price. They are kind of expensive new

[MOMO]

Car audio is one place where you get what you pay for...always.

The components that make up my amps cost upwards of $600 -- just for the components themselves. There is a big difference to an audiophile when listening to cheap vs quality components, I can pick out cheap components from 50' away, just by the sound.

You want the best? Stick with the best. JL or Orion, 2nd choices would be a top-level brand, such as Pioneer (who've gotten better lately), RF, Kicker, etc. I stay away from Memphis, because of their history with cheater subs and lying about power ratings.

E1

E1

are you talking about Memphis amp or Memphis subs?

Memphis amp has always put out more power than their rating.

[EternalOne]

Sorry, amps. We scoped a Memphis amp a few years ago, and their stats did not match our testing of the product -- plus the power was very dirty, meaning while it works fine for SPL, the amp would be horrid for a SQ setup.

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[MaverickFlyer]

I agree with E1 here. JL or Orion. gotta love the HCCA subs or the W7's. lol As for Amps, like E1 said, you get what you pay for. I have always had a soft spot for the MMATS amps, talk about ignorant power without having something built custom (E1) lol. You want some serious beats, get the DH1200C, I think it cost around $1200........

I agree back in the day when i had more money than brains I would only Buy Orion amps and Subs. Now i have two 12" P2 RF with a 300 watt amp. It hits hard enough for me. 136db at fest. :biggrin:

[james99]

i have a set of the older RF hx2's they hit pretty hard. i havent heard any of their newer stuff, but im thinking the new shiny look is cover something up:shrug:

[EternalOne]

I agree back in the day when i had more money than brains I would only Buy Orion amps and Subs.

LOL, I hear ya there. ;)

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