Project: Mavro Gato - 99 Turbo'd 3L

[FastCougar]

Index of Updates with Topics:

Post 1: History of project discussed and the first day of the engine buildup begins (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1088930&postcount=1)
Post 15: Covers are painted and prepped (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1089724&postcount=15)
Post 23: Covers are installed and the block modifications continue (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1090828&postcount=23)
Post 27: Longblock starting to take shape ... FEAD side complete (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1090997&postcount=27)
Post 65: Tapped the block for the oil return line and started porting the the UIM to accept 70mm TB (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1122728&postcount=65)
Post 69: Finished porting the UIM to accept 70mm TB by creating custom metal gasket/separator (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1127646&postcount=69)
Post 81: Started to sand down the exterior of the UIM (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1135092&postcount=81)
Post 89: Pointed out the difference between my UIM and the stock UIM (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1135858&postcount=89)
Post 94: Sanding down the exterior of the UIM continues (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1137129&postcount=94)
Post 109: Finished sanding exterior of the UIM (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1143498&postcount=109)
Post 119: Decided to paint the UIM vs. Polishing to better compliment the engine bay (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1146293&postcount=119)
Post 124: Installed UIM and fitted some wiring harnesses (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1147269&postcount=124)
Post 147: Engine Fully assembled, Cleaned out the engine bay and started the suspension overhaul (http://newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1149208&postcount=147)
Post 176: Full suspension overhaul & custom made intake (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/showpost.php?p=1166891&postcount=176)
Post 203: Started the car for the first time (Naturally Aspirated) (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1169128-post203.html)
Post 233: Started fabrication of the up-pipe's 2 into 1 merge collector (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1174616-post233.html)
Post 263: Find and fix an intake vacuum leak & misc. overview shots of the car (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1179208-post263.html)
Post 301: Found the source of my fuse problem (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1187100-post301.html)
Post 311: Turbo has arrived, along with other goodies (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1190196-post311.html)
Post 319: Car is running again ... it was the speedo sensor (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1193333-post319.html)
Post 328: Engine from swap crated for shipping (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1230899-post328.html)
Post 342: Announce the "kit" will not be produced (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1264431-post342.html)
Post 353: Battery tray fabricated (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1311777-post353.html)
Post 360: A/C system completely removed (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1313253-post360.html)
Post 376: AEM Wideband gauge install (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1325444-post376.html)
Post 377: Video of the wideband working (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1325482-post377.html)
Post 402: First dyno runs (Naturally Aspirated) (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1326479-post402.html)
Post 407: Turbo system fabrication continues with up-pipe (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1329923-post407.html)
Post 435: Up-pipe redesigned and fabrication continues (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1332935-post435.html)
Post 444: Down-pipe fabrication started (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1333509-post444.html)
Post 446: Turbo system starting to take shape (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1333553-post446.html)
Post 460: Oil feed line is run (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1334518-post460.html)
Post 468: LIM secondaries removed along with the EGR (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1338510-post468.html)
Post 482: New intercooler arrived and fitted (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1342747-post482.html)
Post 512: Wastegate fabrication done, but need to raise the intercooler (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1344410-post512.html)
Post 518: Intercooler raised, wastegate tube shortened, support bracket added & bumper cut (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1347357-post518.html)
Post 539: Intercooler shrouding plans discussed (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1347951-post539.html)
Post 561: Intercooler piping complete along with turbo inlet tubing (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1355229-post561.html)
Post 608: Finish intake/vacuum plumbing, moving onto the exhaust (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1363297-post608.html)
Post 649: Add some forgotten gaskets and finally finish the exhaust - SHE'S COMPLETE!!! (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1368270-post649.html)
Post 747: Dyno results are in ... still need some tuning! (http://www.newcougar.org/forums/1376405-post747.html)


Project Mavro Gato:

Mavro = Greek word for "Black"
Gato = Greek word for "Cat"

History:

It all started at breakfast one morning during CougarFest 2004. My wife leans over to me and says "You know what, you should buy another Cougar for a project car" ... she has lived to regret those words :evil:

See, in September of 1999, I bought a 1999 Cougar and began modifying it immediately. However, in 2000, the wife and I decided to buy a house and we went into "savings mode". We where eating peanut butter & jelly sandwiches for lunch and mac-n-cheese for dinner for months straight to help save for the house. I pitched in and sold the Cougar to avoid the $418/month payment (I bought the car with $0 down and financed 100% of the car).

So, I planned CougarFest 2004 (with A LOT of help from committee members) and while attending, I guess my wife witnessed first hand how much I truly love these cars ... that or she just didn't want me to auto-cross the truck anymore ;) I promptly started to follow eBay ads for 1999 Cougars upon the completion of CougarFest 2004.

Following CougarFest 2004, I began buying parts that I knew I needed. However, I didn't have any solid plans for the car other than knowing it would have a 3L in it. About 4 months later, I bought a Black 1999 Cougar from an eBay seller who ran a shop in Philadelphia. I snagged the car for a mere $2,000 since it had a blown slave cylinder and couldn't be moved easily. You had to select a gear and then start the car in that gear ... I was never able to drive it. To this day, I haven't driven the car. Overall, it was a great buy ... except for some hidden front bumper damage (car had a bra on it). So, the front & rear bumpers (many punctures/scrapes/etc.) have to be replaced ... no big deal since the car needs some fresh paint anyways.

So, I now have the car, all the engine parts (Turbo/Supercharger in mind), 3L block, spare transmission ... everything to make this car into something great. Problem was, I was running out of money and the $6,000 at the time for an ADC kit was appearing more and more ludicrous in my eyes after watching Warmonger's success designing and testing his own setup multiple times. I had the $6K for the kit, but didn't see the value in it (at the time) and wanted to use the money to get the car a nice paint job and fix up the interior (roll cage & racing seats). I will live to completely and utterly regret this decision.

So, I hunt down an already turbo'd Cougar/Contour and buy it. The plan was simple, buy a turbo Cougar/Contour, duplicate the piping and then sell the car for a small loss, or remove the turbo kit, return the car to stock and still spend WAY Less and $6,000. The rest is history and well, rather a long story that I don't really want to get into in this thread. Long story short, I get totally hosed on the deal, have to drop a new engine into the POS and then end up rolling the car the same day that I get it titled!

So, this thread is here to document the process of me creating my turbo kit and completing Phase 1 & 2 of Project Mavro Gato.

Phase 1 = Build up the car and break in the engine/transmission naturally aspirated
Phase 2 = Build up the turbo kit and "prove the concept"
Phase 3 = Swap the driveline into the rear of the car and go RWD. This phase is a long way off ... IF it ever leaves paper is to be seen. This will be a multi-year project and involves me becoming a proficient TIG welder & metal fabricator first.


----------------------------------------
Engine Buildup Begins
----------------------------------------

1999 Taurus 3L block, Pauter Rods & Diamond 9:1 CR pistons. Note the painted (500 degree engine enamal) engine mount.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1921.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1922.jpg

Oil pump attached.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1923.jpg

Windage tray & oil pickup attached.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1925.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1927.jpg

Oil seperator installed.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1928.jpg

ARP head studs ready to be installed.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1930.jpg

Studs installed.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1932.jpg

Head gaskets fitted over studs.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1934.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1935.jpg

Right head installed.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1936.jpg

Left head installed.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1937.jpg

At this point, I needed to remove the cam caps in order to torque down the head stud nuts.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1938.jpg

Cams removed, studs exposed.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1939.jpg

stud "head" closeup.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1940.jpg

All the nuts installed and the Roller Finger Followers (RFF's) are installed.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1941.jpg

Cams are reinstalled and caps fitted and torqued to spec.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1942.jpg

Timing chain guides are installed.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1945.jpg

Left head timed.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1946.jpg

Close up of the colored links on their respective cam markings.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1948.jpg

Same on the sprocket end.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1949.jpg

Fully timed. Notice the colored links are all off by 21 links to the timing marks on the cams & crank sprocket. I rotated the assembly to ensure proper timing. Aside from hunting down a missing "gold" bolt (timing chain guides & tensioners), the entire process took roughly 15 minutes.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1950.jpg

[JScullin]

I haven't even bought my 1st 3.0 and most of you are on you 2nd and 3rds. :(

[LostRacer]

some spoiled brats get everything..:(

[scrupul0us]

that is one clean mother****ing engine

[FastCougar]

that is one clean mother****ing engineJust wait for tonight's pictures. The FEAD side (front) motor mount was painted with 500+ degree engine enamel. I love the stuff, so I'm going to paint the timing cover and both valve covers as well ... all silver (aluminum). She is going to sparkle :)

As of right now, I'm waiting on a new SVT flywheel to arrive. So, until then I need to clean out the LIM & paint it, paint and install the valve covers, timing cover & oil pan. Once all the painted parts are installed, I plan on masking the block and painting it as well. However, I don't want to put masking tape/paper on still curing paint, so the block detailing will not be done until tomorrow night.

I also forgot to get a closeup of the installed stud nuts, so I will add that to tonight's list as well.

[FastCougar]

some spoiled brats get everything..:(Yes, I do spoil myself rotten ... you know, with all the money I make from whoring out your mamma :poke:

[J-Man]

Lookin good Trevor! This is your "race" block right?

[FastCougar]

Lookin good Trevor! This is your "race" block right?Yep ... I will add to the original post to clarify some things like Specs, intended use, plans for the car, etc. I will also use the original post to hotlink to posts by me within this thread with all the pictures and/or technical discussions ... sort of like an appendix within the original post. This way, people don't have to read all the fluff posts and can get right to meat of the thread when they first start reading it ;)

[bensenvill]

Just wait for tonight's pictures. The FEAD side (front) motor mount was painted with 500+ degree engine enamel. I love the stuff, so I'm going to paint the timing cover and both valve covers as well ... all silver (aluminum). She is going to sparkle :)

so what paint is this that you are using?

[XplosivePlushToy]

Domo arigato Mavro Gato!

Domo!

[StealthyWeasel]

Added in the photos was a close up of the YL8E upper windage tray. I was curious on if this needed to be updated, since my stock 02 sable tray worked fine with the updated 5L8E oil pan and pickup tube. Via PM's trevor had verified to me that it can work as long as it clears all components (rotate the engine several times)

Can anyone else pitch in on this or is that pretty much the definitive answer?

[FastCougar]

The only reason for that closeup is to note what tray didn't work without being modified. However, I think this is exclusive to me since I had to modify it because a block bolt was in the wrong place ... look just above the nut holding down the oil pickup tab ... I had to drill out the pan to clear a studded bolt that is in the wrong place. I have to reference the build manual that I gave the machine shop to see if it was their goof or mine (giving them 2.5L directions). *I THINK* that studded bolt was the old retaining stud for the older design oil pickup and me giving them the 2.5L plans with revised 3L setups would explain why I had to drill a hole in the windage tray. No biggie though ... the bolts are all the same length and torqued to spec.

[Blackcoog]

The only reason for that closeup is to note what tray didn't work without being modified. However, I think this is exclusive to me since I had to modify it because a block bolt was in the wrong place ... look just above the nut holding down the oil pickup tab ... I had to drill out the pan to clear a studded bolt that is in the wrong place. I have to reference the build manual that I gave the machine shop to see if it was their goof or mine (giving them 2.5L directions). *I THINK* that studded bolt was the old retaining stud for the older design oil pickup and me giving them the 2.5L plans with revised 3L setups would explain why I had to drill a hole in the windage tray. No biggie though ... the bolts are all the same length and torqued to spec.
That isn't out of the ordinary. I've had to modify all of the windage trays when I swap over to the 2.5L oil pan on all my 3L swaps. You need to replaced one of the bolts with one that has a stud on it and drill through the windage tray so it will stick through and the pickup tube has something to bolt to.

[nadthomas]

That's awesome. I glad to see the "FastCougar" is going to come to life.

[FastCougar]

Today's work ... before and after of the external "covers" being painted with Dupli-Color's 500 degree engine enamel (w/ceramic). I did 2 light coats, roughly 15 minutes apart and then one final coat laid on heavier, but not heavy enough to streak.

Timing Cover:

Before
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1951.jpg

After
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1958.jpg

Left Head Valve Cover:

Before
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1952.jpg

After
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1956.jpg

Right Head Valve Cover:

Before
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1953.jpg

After
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1955.jpg

Oil Pan (brand new):

Before
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1954.jpg

After
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1957.jpg

I ordered a new idler pulley and tensioner arm from Rock Auto. Here they are installed on the newly painted timing cover. I have to remove the old (painted over) crankshaft oil seal and install the new one, but it's late and I don't want to make that kind of noise right now.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1959.jpg

However, I think I will need to return the idler pulley and order one from Bill Jenkins ... it's slightly larger than stock ... just enough clearance here to insert a finger nail ... no more.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1960.jpg

And yes, I plan on pulling the idler pulley retainer & bolt and painting those as well when I replace the idler pulley ;)

[GrandMasterKhan]

hey we need to do that to my 3.0 :biggrin:

[FastCougar]

hey we need to do that to my 3.0 :biggrin:Who's we? Someone helping you install a 3L? ;)

My Cougar's black with a silver engine ... your Cougar is silver, so black should look good ... set off your hood nicely when opened up.

[FastCougar]

The red trans is going to stick out like a sore thumb, not to mention that the paint on it is plain old spray paint is can be wiped off with a rag w/gasoline on it :banghead:

I soo regret spending the extra money on getting that done. Don't get me wrong, it looks great, but was definitely done in a hurry and done with the wrong type of paint.

[Cheesebox]

OoOOooOh Shiny?

[Danef150]

Nice work any high def pics of what was done to the crank ?
Thanks
Jameson

[mond12345]

Nice job so far. I used the same paint but i used the Dupli-Color® High Heat Paint with Ceramic which is good to 1200. I used silver on the timing cover and oil pan too, than a red block.

[FastCougar]

Nice work any high def pics of what was done to the crank ?
Thanks
JamesonNo I don't ... DanG and I had the same thing done at the same machine shop ... exact same internals except my pistons are .5:1 CR less ... Dan has 9.5:1 and I have 9.0:1. I think Dan has some pictures floating around these boards of his setup.

[FastCougar]

Productive weekend:

Cleaned the LIM ... it sparkels now

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1961.jpg

Installed the timing wheel ... notice the keyway is furthest from the missing tooth in the timing wheel.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1967.jpg

Installed the crank shaft oil seal in the timing cover, installed the cover and then the oil pan.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1970.jpg

Turned her right side up again ... note the idler pulley retaining cap & bolt are both painted silver now.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1973.jpg

I goofed up ... I should have trimmed these "ears" off before getting everying together, but at least with everything together, the aluminum shavings will not be able to contaminate the engine.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1974.jpg

cleaned all the bolts and installed the valve covers ... it's starting to look like an engine now!

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1977.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1978.jpg

closeup of the painted retainer & bolt holding on the idler pulley

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1979.jpg

Removed the "ears" that are in the way of fitting the alternator bracket, painted and installed the alternator bracket and the passenger's side CV joint jack shaft bracket.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1980.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1981.jpg

Installed the oil dipstick tube ... note the "before" condition of the oil cooler.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1983.jpg

Installed the coolant pipe that connects the heads and houses the sensors and also installed the PCV tube to the oil seperator.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1984.jpg

Closeup of the offending "ear" that must be removed so that the oil cooler lines can pass unobstructed.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1985.jpg

Disassembled and stripped the oil seperator assembly of it's paint and then repainted it with the silver engine enamel. I'm VERY pleased with the results! The process was VERY time consuming!

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1986.jpg

Closeup of where the offending "ear" was removed ... again, very time consuming process involving a hack saw and an angle grinder

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1987.jpg

Installed a new alternator from AutoZone (with limited lifetime warranty).

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1988.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1989.jpg

Installed the LIM gaskets and LIM.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1990.jpg

Removed the alternator pulley in favor of my underdriven one. The process is much simpler than you would imagine ... an old serpentine belt, some locking plyers and an impact wrench is all it takes.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1991.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1992.jpg

[J-Man]

Pretty nice lookin build Trevor, all those painted parts are awesome. Excellent attention to detail.

[bensenvill]

Nice job so far. I used the same paint but i used the Dupli-Color® High Heat Paint with Ceramic which is good to 1200. I used silver on the timing cover and oil pan too, than a red block.

you know what, I tried the high heat dupli-color for a few parts, dont like it, it hasnt held up nearly as well as the parts I did with high temp rustolium.

anyways, the build looks great!

[DanG]

You're making my installs look shoddy there, dude... :tongue:

Nice work!

[FastCougar]

You're making my installs look shoddy there, dude... :tongue:

Nice work!Yeah, but it's MUCH more time consuming and costly ... so far I have gone through 2 cans of engine enamel and I'm currently on can #3, 2 cans of carb/choke cleaner, 2 cans of brake cleaner & 1 can of paint thinner (bolt bath).

Anywho, here is a nice picture of the timing cover, complete with the under driven power steering pump & alternator pulleys.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_1993.jpg

After the engine is broken in naturally aspirated, I need to pull the oil pan in order to drill & tap the oil pan for the oil return line for the turbo. I was going to tap the block like I did before on the other 3L that was in the Contour that I rolled, but had already started to build up the engine and installed the oil pan ... it was too late when I realized my mistake. Well, it's not really too late ... I guess I could always rotate the engine a bit and remove the oil pan & windage tray to tap the block ... hmmmm ... decisions decisions!

[FastCougar]

I'm hesitant to fit my DMD to the engine now due to problems dropping the engine in. IIRC, Dan, you had a problem with SVTPete's hybrid install because the DMD was too big. Question is ... how do your properly install a DMD AFTER fitting into the chassis ... you can't get the additional 90 degree turn on the bolt with the car inches off the ground ... so, what do I do?

[mond12345]

I don't get how everyone is saying that. I dropped my 3L in without even coming close the the DMD or that side even. I would install it! I did have a total of three people though, one to operate the engine hoist than me and yosilver442 to position the thing.

[FastCougar]

I don't get how everyone is saying that. I dropped my 3L in without even coming close the the DMD or that side even. I would install it! I did have a total of three people though, one to operate the engine hoist than me and yosilver442 to position the thing.I got three people to: Me, Myself & I :tongue:

[J-Man]

Any reason behind keeping the secondaries?

[FastCougar]

Because there really is no need to remove them ... Warmonger has proven this. When they start to become a restriction, I will remove them ... it's easy enough to do with the engine in the car. Besides, I'm breaking the car in natrually aspirated.

Speaking of breakin, Warmonger will have his hands full with my tune:

8.7:1 to 8.8:1 Compression Ratio
"Monster" turbo cut heads
42# injectors
80mm 2000 Lightening MAF
"Max Honed" UIM
70mm Throttle Body

and for the kicker:

Stock fuel pump

Yep, when he tunes this thing to run naturally aspirated so I can break in the clutch/trans, he will definitely prove himself a great tuner ... as if he hasn't already with Stilov & BarritaSVT.

[warmonger]

I'm hesitant to fit my DMD to the engine now due to problems dropping the engine in. IIRC, Dan, you had a problem with SVTPete's hybrid install because the DMD was too big. Question is ... how do your properly install a DMD AFTER fitting into the chassis ... you can't get the additional 90 degree turn on the bolt with the car inches off the ground ... so, what do I do?


Use an air impact. It's never been an issue to buzz one on for me. I gave up on all that special crap with either damper. 250 ft-lb impact and its on there good but can still be removed.


I like how you build looks. Also funny how proud of your silver idler pulley. Hahah the funny thing is I've been doing an almost identical build of an engine right now for a guy in GA over the past 10 days....waiting on parts right now. BUt I used the same paint, cleaning process, and even pulled the idler pulley and tensioner for painting like you did. I too am very proud of the new paint on the tensioner and pulley. Only I used VHT on the black tensioner pulley. :bowdown:

Of course I cut all the ears while the parts were apart before cleaning though. :biggrin: It takes very little time with a Sawzall and the metal cutting blade. I spent maybe 5 min on the crank, 8-10 min on the "offending ear" where the coolant lines go and 5 minutes each on the upper/lower ears where the alternator bracket goes. All very clean cuts too if I may say so. I even took a file and cleaned up the cuts on the engine so they look like stock.

So I'll have this guys engine back together in about 4hours after I get all the parts.
He's only the second person to get the whole Original Warmonger's race-ported heads. If you guys recall my old webpage I put up back in 2001 where I did all the head porting and such on my hybrid and then set down 217 wHP with stock pcm and no tuning...well like that.

Well there you go, your thread and I'm hijacking it. lol :flushed:
Sorry

[warmonger]

Because there really is no need to remove them ... Warmonger has proven this. When they start to become a restriction, I will remove them ... it's easy enough to do with the engine in the car. Besides, I'm breaking the car in natrually aspirated.

Speaking of breakin, Warmonger will have his hands full with my tune:

8.7:1 to 8.8:1 Compression Ratio
"Monster" turbo cut heads
42# injectors
80mm 2000 Lightening MAF
"Max Honed" UIM
70mm Throttle Body

and for the kicker:

Stock fuel pump

Yep, when he tunes this thing to run naturally aspirated so I can break in the clutch/trans, he will definitely prove himself a great tuner ... as if he hasn't already with Stilov & BarritaSVT.

I wouldn't say I proved they aren't a restriction per se, depending on your build I think I've proven that they are in most cases not a restriction.
I have to reserve opinion until I see a dyno of DemonSVTs car, his is the only car that I'd think may have a chance of showing he's better off without them but then he did everything start to finish from the build, install, part selection and tuning with the Tweecer setup.
He's also kept all of it to himself except for the track time of course. lol

[FastCougar]

What's that ... hell froze over?

No, Greg finally posted a dyno chart of his engine :rofl:

[warmonger]

Bwahahaha!
:D

[dyed4ordblue]

Trevor, your attention to detail is amazing. I am very impressed. I can't wait to see the final numbers. Is this still going to be a kit, or is this only for your cougar?

[Blackcoog]

The DMD can get in the way. It's a good idea to install it while the engine is in the car. Also I noticed that removing the transmission tower makes the engine install so much easier as it can slide under the brake booster much easier.

[FastCougar]

The DMD can get in the way. It's a good idea to install it while the engine is in the car. Also I noticed that removing the transmission tower makes the engine install so much easier as it can slide under the brake booster much easier.The reason I brought up the DMD issue is because I have experienced it first hand helping DanG do an install ... it will stay off the engine until she is bolted down to the subframe. I also agree on the trans tower :thumbsup:

[FastCougar]

I'm down for a couple of days while I wait on parts from BAT, Summit Racing (header paint & wrap) & Bill Jenkins. Progress should resume this weekend. I'm going to start to assemble the ground control's onto the Koni's. When I drop the engine/trans into the car, I will be completely replacing everything on the front/rear suspensions, boxing the rear sway bar mounts, etc.

[DanG]

If it's not too late, I'm going to try to steer you away from the header wrap... I finally ditched it and got the pipes coated... The damn stuff never stopped "curing" (i.e. smoking like a chimney every time I came off a hard accelleration run)...

[DROPdatSCORT]

Nice work man, kinda what want to do to my SVT contour lol


hmmm ive never had the proplem with my heat wrap dan, what kind did you use? and what color

[StealthyWeasel]

why did you install the LIM does the wiring harness go above it? I know the 3.0 wasn't like that IIRC

[RodneyBur]

I installed my engine by myself with a only a hoist and a chain. No side to side action. I didn't have any problems with clearance on the fender wells and had the DMD installed prior to engine installation. I did have quite a time trying to get the rear motor mount lined up. I ended up removing the front header to give me enough room to move it around and it went in right away. I'd suggest leaving the front header off until it is in the car since it made it a lot easier for me. It only took about 15 minutes to get it back on without the radiator in the car.

[nadthomas]

I installed my engine by myself with a only a hoist and a chain. No side to side action. I didn't have any problems with clearance on the fender wells and had the DMD installed prior to engine installation. I did have quite a time trying to get the rear motor mount lined up. I ended up removing the front header to give me enough room to move it around and it went in right away. I'd suggest leaving the front header off until it is in the car since it made it a lot easier for me. It only took about 15 minutes to get it back on without the radiator in the car.

Yep, I did mine the exact same way, except I had someone else lowering the engine while I helped guided it in.

[FastCougar]

I can do that ... I have a fresh new (bought nearly 2 years ago) SVT radiator that will be going in AFTER the engine, so no problems getting that front header back on.

This weekend I will be pulling the rear subframe in order to box the swaybar mounting tabs and to remove the stock rear sway bar. That will be sent to GMK since I bought his Aussie Bar & End Links for some $$$ + exchance of stock parts. This weekend I also plan on putting together the Koni & Ground Controls & porting the UIM TB inlet to be less restrictive since I will be using a MAC 70mm Mustang TB.

The header wrap that I got was DEI copper (2000 degree) w/ Silver DEI header paint (also 2000 degree) & many SS straps. The plan is put 2 coats of the paint on the headers, then wrap them, the put 2 coats of the paint over the header wrap ... I hope 2 cans of paint is enough.

[Blackcoog]

The header wrap that I got was DEI copper (2000 degree) w/ Silver DEI header paint (also 2000 degree) & many SS straps. The plan is put 2 coats of the paint on the headers, then wrap them, the put 2 coats of the paint over the header wrap ... I hope 2 cans of paint is enough. __________________

I picked up the exact same stuff and put two coats on. It seems to be holding up pretty well. It does still let off steam if water gets on the wrap and you start it up. It's not a big deal though.

[FastCougar]

I'm not worried about the headers since they are Stainless Steel ... more to keep the heat in pipes and out of the engine bay.

[FastCougar]

I want to "prove the concept" of my FMIC kit before I drop the coin on sending then off to Jet-Hot. The person that fabricated the headers will be duplicating the kit for me if his price is reasonable. Then I will do a group buy-in in order to get all the kits made at once and then ship those to Jet-Hot ... it will all be included in the price of the kit and whatnot, but that is in the future and off-topic for this thread ... all in due time.

[Arhethia]

mavro gato, eivai mia malakia j/k juest messing with you in greek.

Anyways your build looks fantastic. It's good to see your caring about every little nut and bolt on the car. I hope everything works out great for you!!

[FastCougar]

eivai mia malakiaIt's (it is) one hair (or soft, depending on the accent)?

Did you mean "eivai to skato"? :biggrin:

[Arhethia]

It's (it is) one hair (or soft, depending on the accent)?

Did you mean "eivai to skato"? :biggrin:

lol, no it means "it's a bull$hit thing" kinda means that.

That phrase is kinda hard to translate.

more like that thing is fuken b.s lol. obviously your engine is sweet and not a bs engine at all:)

Your wife must of not thought of the word.

malaka which is ahem, and malakia is ahem with more ahem in it lol.

[fordrule]

aren't u happy now u didn't sell ur whole set up u had for sale and just fixing up the cougar now. awesome build trevor

[FastCougar]

aren't u happy now u didn't sell ur whole set up u had for sale and just fixing up the cougar now. awesome build trevorYes & No ... Yes because I really enjoy doing the work and will REALLY enjoy driving the car and what not, but No because when she is fully broken in and running great with the turbo on her, the plan is to sell the car as a whole and quite frankly, she will not return the money I have in her ... because of this, I'm having second thoughts of selling the car when she is done. In that case, I will have to hear about it day-after-day from the wife and well, that will drive me :crazy:

[FastCougar]

I picked up the exact same stuff and put two coats on. It seems to be holding up pretty well. It does still let off steam if water gets on the wrap and you start it up. It's not a big deal though.I goofed on the product ... it arrived last night and it wasn't the DEI stuff, I got the "Thermo-Tec" version called "Cool-It" ... same ratings on the wrap & paint though, so hopefully they hold up as well.

For reference, here are links to the wrap I got:

2 of: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE%2D11031&N=700+400356+316517+115&autoview=sku

1 of: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE%2D11032&N=700+400356+316517+115&autoview=sku

3 cans: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE%2D12002&N=700+400356+309616+115&autoview=sku

[warmonger]

If it's not too late, I'm going to try to steer you away from the header wrap... I finally ditched it and got the pipes coated... The damn stuff never stopped "curing" (i.e. smoking like a chimney every time I came off a hard accelleration run)...

That is pretty weird, mine only did it about 2-3 days, each of the 3 times I've used it on my piping systems. The curing was pretty quick but if you get oil in the wrap....oh man maybe that is what happened to you. The wrap with the thermotec paint has to cure first. I left a section under the oil filter area unwrapped just for the reason because of oil changes dripping oil on it and taking a long time to burn off.

[warmonger]

I goofed on the product ... it arrived last night and it wasn't the DEI stuff, I got the "Thermo-Tec" version called "Cool-It" ... same ratings on the wrap & paint though, so hopefully they hold up as well.

For reference, here are links to the wrap I got:

2 of: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE%2D11031&N=700+400356+316517+115&autoview=sku

1 of: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE%2D11032&N=700+400356+316517+115&autoview=sku

3 cans: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE%2D12002&N=700+400356+309616+115&autoview=sku


Don't worry, that thermotec Cool-it stuff is awesome. Just clean the bare metal very well then spray it two coats. Then cure it or carefull not to scratch it until it cures on the car.

[warmonger]

Yes & No ... Yes because I really enjoy doing the work and will REALLY enjoy driving the car and what not, but No because when she is fully broken in and running great with the turbo on her, the plan is to sell the car as a whole and quite frankly, she will not return the money I have in her ... because of this, I'm having second thoughts of selling the car when she is done. In that case, I will have to hear about it day-after-day from the wife and well, that will drive me :crazy:


Just thought I should point out the fact that just one good year of driving it will earn back some of that money you spent. Figure how much it will cost to lease, and service a car for one year, especially a cool fast car, and then factor that amount off the cost of the build.
I mean crap, you drive a new car you get value out of it and it depreciates. You get a good year out of your car and you not only prove out how well it runs and work out any bugs, but you make it easier to sell it for less than you put into it.

[FastCougar]

hmmm ... maybe I should get hold of some sheet aluminum and fabricate a drip channel :cool:

[FastCougar]

I have changed the first post in this thread and also included the "Index" at the top as well ... more updates coming soon.

[fordrule]

update

[FastCougar]

I pulled the oil pan, removed the windage tray & oil pickup and removed the valve covers today ... preparing to tap the block for the turbo oil return line. I don't have the parts for the oil supply to/from the turbo, so I had to order them as well ... Once the oil return line is tapped into the block, I will begin final assembly and drop the lump into the Cougar :)

I should have an update in about a week or two. Slow going right now, waiting on parts. I got a little ahead of myself and basically spent a few hours today back tracking.

Here is a picture of what I'm talking about doing (tapping the block vs. tapping the pan). These are from the rolled Contour's engine that was recently sold & installed in SVT3391's (Rick's) SVT Contour:

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5058.jpg

Why I decided to tap the block vs. the pan:

Level pan with not quite 5 qts of oil in it (around 4.75 qts.)

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5061.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5060.jpg

6 quarts will no doubt raise the static oil level well above the pan's mating surface.

[bensenvill]

question since your waiting on parts. I loved your whole build thread on CEG of the tour, all the details of each step really brought to life the whole build process... but heres where I'm an idiot on, where and what did you order for the turbo oil lines. I'd really like to see one step of "I ordered these parts [for the oil line], I expect it to snap together like this, and finally well it all basically went together but I overlooked this and needed this tool to refab something".

[FastCougar]

Quick update ... the ATP turbo oil supply line/fittings and return oil line/fittings will be delivered tomorrow. I should have some progress to report on Tuesday/Wednesday night.

[FastCougar]

Well, everything came in the other day, but just found the time yesterday to tap the block and reassemble, but didn't have time to download and post pictures until tonight.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5206.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5207.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5208.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5209.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5210.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5211.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5212.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5213.jpg

Now for the interesting part ... 70mm TB (70mm before throttle plate, flares to 72mm where it mates to the flange). So, quite a bit of porting must be done. The red outline is the 65mm TB gasket outline. Here I'm removing the "nubs" aft of the EGR path outlets.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5214.jpg

"nubs" removed, now widening the bore.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5215.jpg

boring complete.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5216.jpg

Here is where it gets interesting ... It still needs about 5-6mm more removed, but this will interfere with the EGR path and I don't want to pressurize the EGR passage, so it's time to get creative!

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5217.jpg

Here you can see the EGR passage exposed on the outside of the TB ... what to do ...

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5218.jpg

The "spacer" gasket that Warmonger supplied with the TB shows that it will cover the passage just fine ... I plan on using a gasket, then this plate.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5219.jpg

Even then, the TB has a built in passage that needs to be blocked off ... this picture illustrates the massive leak that would exist if it's not blocked off.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5220.jpg

Some "QuickSteel" will solve that.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5221.jpg

And it's what I'm using to block off the EGR passage (for the time being while I port out the bore to 72mm. This picture shows the guides I penned with the TB attached.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5222.jpg

The plan is to "flare" the bore so that incoming air doesn't hit a flat surface face on ... horrible for flow. I then plan on using a router bit on my dremel to channel out the EGR passage.

[Instigator]

so that was where that leak was coming from (the 2nd one next to the TPS)

:banghead:

[FastCougar]

Update: You guys know me ... never one to cut corners. I ended up routing out all the QuickSteel ... better safe than sorry! That would suck if a chunk broke off ... there goes a $4,500+ engine :banghead:

I don't have any pictures to post, but I ended up making my own gasket for the TB and it came out awesome (gotta have the right tools ... in this case, a gasket punch set). I'm going to use that as a template for making my own metal seperator. Not that Tom's didn't work, but I need it to cover the gaps that boring exposed. The pictures that I post when I'm done with the UIM will speak volumes.

[drummerboy827]

It's always nice to have piece of mind over stuff like that too. If I eever "ghetto rig" something in my car, and I hear a strang noise or something doesnt feel right, I always think about the piece I half a$$ed first.

On another note, I've been watching motor builds on here occur for a few years now, and I have to say your's is the nicest i've seen yet. For whatever that's worth. Keep up the good work.

[FastCougar]

Well, I will explain a little, but the pictures do most of the talking ... pretty self-explanatory

I began by routing out QuickSteel after talking to Warmonger ... It was a hasty decision on my part to begin. I also cut in some galleys for the air to flow pas the areas where the EGR passage meets the incoming air.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2232.jpg

closeup of the routing & air passages past the EGR outlets

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2233.jpg

Why the old metal gasket/separator couldn't be used ... this gasket that I made is extremely similar and shows how the incoming air will meet many obstructions

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2242.jpg

So, I decided to mark where I should leave "tangs" in order to fold them over and used this gasket as a template for a new metal gasket/separator

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2243.jpg

The resulting metal gasket/separator (before de-burring)

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2234.jpg

And why I went through all the trouble ... actually, it wasn't much trouble or that hard, but required me to buy some new tools (way overdue)

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2244.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2246.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2247.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2248.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_2250.jpg

Now I just need to finish removing all the casting flash from the outside of the UIM and then it's time to polish it ... more to come tomorrow night ;)

[Blackcoog]

Nice job. Looks like it will work out perfectly.

[warmonger]

Looks pretty good! You pulled that one out yer ass nicely. :tongue:

[B3NN3TT]

You're doing all this work; are you going to knife-edge and counter-sink that throttle plate as well?

[FastCougar]

You're doing all this work; are you going to knife-edge and counter-sink that throttle plate as well?I've been thinking about it ...

[warmonger]

With a hole that size...why bother? :goofy: 70mm couldn't possibly be a restriction. :rofl:

[shadowfox28]

Wowzas! "The cleanest build in the history of automobiles." Very nice work. Did you just use a regular hand dremmel for the throttle body boring? If you did, you my friend have a very steady hand. :thumbsup:

[FastCougar]

95% of the casting flash is removed from the topside of the UIM. It's very time consuming and mind numbing work. Tonight, I will remove the other 5% and then start on the longer task of working my way down to 800 grit sandpaper before polishing. The bit's I'm using on my grinder are for head porting, so they are something like 60 grit & 100 grit. Next up is hand sanding with 220, then 400, then 800. Good quality polishing is all about surface prep ... at least I keep tell myself that ;)

I will get some pictures after tonight's progress ;)

[jaged]

what type of metal did you use for the gasket?

[rbls4ever]

looks like plain old sheet aluminum. but i may be wrong

[FastCougar]

what type of metal did you use for the gasket?Yep, plain old sheet aluminum from Home Depot ;)

[PREDATOR]

Looking Good :thumbsup:

[FastCougar]

Well, I should have the engine/trans in the car by now, but this UIM has me bogged down. However, if I don't finish this now, I just don't see myself giving 2 ****s enough down the line to pull it off and finishing it. I can't begin to tell you how time consuming polishing these are! I'm about 1/2 way done, but getting the insides of the runners, where they are next to each other and down into the creases is going to SUCK!

If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't have wasted my time and would have merely painted the damn thing. I have to keep reminding myself how great they look when polished to a mirror finish :banghead:

Just for clarification, this wasn't a last minute decision to start polishing this UIM. I bought the thing in 2003 and promptly took a 60 grit sanding disk on an angle grinder to it. I removed roughly 80% of the casting texture with that back then. I then sent it to Extrude Hone when the original group buy was held for the "Max Hone" process. It's been sitting ever since. I really should have done this long ago and had it ready ... hindsight is always 20/20

Anyways, on to the pictures of the progress:

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5233.jpg

Note the lack of the casting "bumps" where the runners meet the main chambers ... this took a long time to do (did it back when I first got the UIM)
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5234.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5235.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5236.jpg

The "channels" between the joined runners need to be worked out due to heavy scoring by the head porting sanding rolls
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5237.jpg

very small pit marks are found here and there ... these still need to be worked out.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5238.jpg

Ahhh ... finally ... starting to come together ...
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5239.jpg

Overview of tonight's progress.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5240.jpg

[Shagmonkey]

Hang in there bud. Looking real good. I want to do mine but without the proper tools like you have, it would never be possible. :banghead:

Just keep looking at these pictures and telling yourself why you are doing it.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/carboncougar/UIMchromed.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/carboncougar/shining.jpg

[bensenvill]

Hang in there bud. Looking real good. I want to do mine but without the proper tools like you have, it would never be possible. :banghead:


you can do it all with a dremel... but its quite time consuming.... mines looking VERY similar

[Shagmonkey]

My Dremel is cordless and thus sucks balls as you guys would say !! :rofl:

[wadespencer99]

My Dremel is cordless and thus sucks balls as you guys would say !! :rofl:


I had a cordless one and they do, in fact, suck balls.

[FastCougar]

Well, my angle die grinder (seen in the pictures) is brand new and it was blowing water all night long ... note the last picture where it's upside down ... I poured oil into her after using. The problem is my compressor is only 26 gallons and after only 30 seconds of use, she turns on (automatic pressure switch: on at 95 psi, off at 125 psi). The new grinder flows so much air that once the compressor kicks on, it's working non stop unless I take break for 1-2 minutes. I definitely need more capacity ... a 60-80 gallon stand up would be nice! So, she starts running non-stop and the air travels through a 50 hose ... the water condenses and I get tons of water out the hose/device I'm using.

I need to run some hard line around the garage with water traps and shut-off valves before each "station". Each station will have a water seperator followed by an air "conditioner" (oiler) so that I don't have to oil my tools at night and they are constantly oiled during use. Each "Station" will then have "coiled" lines.

Once I have a diagram of the layout, I will post pictures. I see myself doing this sooner rather than later. Perhaps I will use my birthday/Christmas money on a new compressor and sell this one ;)

[docfeelgood111]

Geez...you guys just gotta put these pics up don't you! Makes me want to polish mine instead of just getting powdercoating. I had already talked myself outta doing it too till I see these pics...lol. Looking good Btw!

[bensenvill]

Geez...you guys just gotta put these pics up don't you! Makes me want to polish mine instead of just getting powdercoating. I had already talked myself outta doing it too till I see these pics...lol. Looking good Btw!


trust me, go with the powder coating. I've been polishing mine for ohhhh a YEAR now [spending a fair amount of time every week].

heres what it looked like in june [and doesnt look much different now], eitherway, the major difference between mine and fastcougs is that I have the inner ports rounded off for inproved signlines [you dont even want to know how long that took]. its a tease angle, it doesnt show you nearly how much metal was removed to do this.

[FastCougar]

the major difference between mine and fastcougs is that I have the inner ports rounded off for inproved signlineshuh :confused:

Here are some angle shots showing the major modifications to the UIM vs. stock.

Stock.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5241.jpg

Removed the "ridge" along the front surface and also removed the nubs between the runners where they meet the front main chamber. Also removed the casting "seam" that runs the entire perimeter of the UIM.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5243.jpg

Stock
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5242.jpg

Same removal all "nubs" and again, the ridge on the rear.
http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5244.jpg

[jaged]

terrys just being a tease, its smoother lighter and thinner than any uim ive ever sceen. it all goes to his anal attention to detail. im thinking of polishing an aluminum intake for my 3L

[PuckPuck]

have any of you considered media blasting the intakes... start off with beads, then work to a thick grain sand, finally to a fine grain sand? I know the upfront costs may sound prohibitive but in the end it should save you quite a few hard hours, and well time is money... especially when you could save 40+ hours of labour for a hundred bucks or so. You would still need to do the final polishing by hand, but it should get nearly everything else out of the way.

[Topik]

removed spots for DPNI FTW. Trevor how long total so far has it taken you again? We have a media blaster at school and a powdercoat booth. Even though school is 4 hours away from danG and I's location. hehe

[FastCougar]

have any of you considered media blasting the intakes... start off with beads, then work to a thick grain sand, finally to a fine grain sand? I know the upfront costs may sound prohibitive but in the end it should save you quite a few hard hours, and well time is money... especially when you could save 40+ hours of labour for a hundred bucks or so. You would still need to do the final polishing by hand, but it should get nearly everything else out of the way.Knowing what I know now, Yes, I would have invested in such a setup. However, at the time, it never crossed my mind because I simply didn't have the room in my single car garage for it.

[FastCougar]

Worked on the UIM for another 2.5 hrs. today. I went back over everything with 80 grit and then with 120. Next up is 220, then finish off by hand with 400, then 800. As for how much time invested thus far, it's been spread far and wide, but I would imagine roughly 30+ hrs. to date. That being said, I could probably redo this in about 10-15 hours with what I have learned and techniques I have tried during this time. Keep in mind, this is all only prep for the polishing. I expect that to take about 4 hours at most. Here we are at 120 grit finished ... I still have to touch up some problem areas as noted in the pictures where there is some pitting.

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5245.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5246.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5247.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5248.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5249.jpg

http://www.newcougar.org/gallery/files/1/6/IMG_5250.jpg

[fordrule]

wowzaaaa

[Blackcoog]

The time needed to polish those things is just crazy. I've had people ask if they could buy mine or have me polish one up for them. With the hrs needed to get it done the cost is way too much. For a personal mod the hrs don't mean much if they are your own.

[warmonger]

The time needed to polish those things is just crazy. I've had people ask if they could buy mine or have me polish one up for them. With the hrs needed to get it done the cost is way too much. For a personal mod the hrs don't mean much if they are your own.

Personally, I like the brushed aluminum look. If you were to take some kind of a stain/paint, say the same color as you car and brush it on right now then wipe off the excess you'd have little bits of the color in all the brush marks.
Then you could buy a couple cans of clearcoat and coat that biotch to give it a deep gloss look.
You could also have the cougar cat etched into the front first and add the coloring to that as well before clearcoating.
Then it would really look cool AND original.

:cool:

[PuckPuck]

Knowing what I know now, Yes, I would have invested in such a setup. However, at the time, it never crossed my mind because I simply didn't have the room in my single car garage for it.

I wasn't talking about getting your own sand blaster.. that's not worth the cost, certainly not for one project. But rather go to a shop that does sand blasting. Consider the amount of money you spent on griding bits and sand paper and such (at least 10 dollars if not 20 or more).. then the hours involved... I would caution the next person to even attempt this, should at least look into the media blasting route.

[FastCougar]

When I started this, I was considering offering this as a service, thus contimplating buying my own media blasting equipment ... I certainly wouldn't have bought for a single manifold ;)

[FastCougar]

Quick update: I spent about 2.5 hrs. Monday night working out the pitting in the "valley" where the casting nubs used to be ... which is why there is pitting in that spot. Didn't get it all out, but I was starting to get concerned with punching through going too deep, so I smoothed it out as best I could. I then sanded down the entire thing with 180 grit. To see/feel what it would be like, I did the entire front chamber in 400 grit ... SMOOTH! Tonight it's going to get sanded down with 220 all over. That should take about 2-2.5 hrs and all I plan on doing tonight. Tomorrow night I will be hand sanding with 400 all over and depending on the surface texture, might switch to 800. However, last night's experiment with 400 has me thinking that 800 grit might not be necessary.

On a side note ... Warmonger will like this ... the brushed aluminum look is REALLY growing on me! It's going to match the rest of the entire color nicely ... ironically, the engine was painted in "brushed aluminum" paint :)

However, my concern will be not enough color contrast with regards to the engine. Pulling the valve covers and repainting high gloss black isn't really an option since I don't think that the gaskets will survive yet another pull and retorque without leaking. So, I'm thinking about doing a recess wipe like Tom suggested. I'm going to test a small area on the underside of the manifold that I have been prepping as well even though it won't be seen ... I did that just for this purpose.