NECO Forums - View Single Post - Nitrous Oxide

02gsxr600 · 05-16-2005, 05:38 AM

OMG!!! SOMEONE WHO FINALLY SAID SOMETHING RIGHT ABOUT N20!!!

For years I have argued with hundreds of people that N2O is not a fuel, but an oxidizer! You are the FIRST person EVER that has made a factual statement about the way N2O actually works. (refering to it "allowing more fuel to be burned")

Sorry, I just got a little too excited and had to get that out. LOL

BTW, I did want to mention though that even with an a/f gauge wether stock or wideband, they can be helpful, but are very useless for safety. An O2 sensor cycles very slowely compared to how quick N2O can lean a motor out doing permanent damage. The most important gauge IMO is an EGT (Exhaust Gas Temp.) These gauges have a sensor immediately outside of one of the exhaust ports and will give you an instant reading if your motor goes lean - letting you know to turn off the N20 immediately!

You should also, do a full compression test on all of your cyclinders. If any 1 or more cyl's is low, do not use N20, you should also do a wet test and the same thing applies. If any one cyl is low after adding a few drops of oil, do not use it either.

As far as the fuel system goes, a fuel pump is great, but won't necessarily help if you are using a dry system since it's relying on your car's injectors for its source of fuel. Your injectors can only flow so much (dependant on their size). At minimum you should purchase a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) This will allow you to adjust your fuel pressure higher than stock. They are inexpensive, and very easy to install. If your budget allows, a good set of RC Engineering injectors is a very good idea with N20. I have usually suggested 10% over stock for 50HP and below, and 15-20% over stock for a 50-100HP kit.

Artichawk:

Using nitrous is no different on an ATX than any other performance mod. Anything that increases HP will make added stress for your transmittion, I used nitrous on my Auto Accord for about a year with no problems, then all of the sudden one day, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear all basically shattered, there were chunks of metal everywhere. Amazingly, 1st gear seamed to be brand new! The one difference of N20 that you will have to be careful with is that it is "instant power". You will not want to use it right off the line because of the sudden shock, launch in 1st gear normally, then switch it on as soon as you shift into 2nd gear. You may also want to check into some upgraded parts if they are available. You may want to check with Level 10, there are a few other companies that also make automatic parts, but I can't think of them off hand.

05-16-2005, 05:38 AM	#9 (permalink)
02gsxr600 NECO Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 253	RE: Nitrous Oxide - FAQ (Ressurected!) OMG!!! SOMEONE WHO FINALLY SAID SOMETHING RIGHT ABOUT N20!!! For years I have argued with hundreds of people that N2O is not a fuel, but an oxidizer! You are the FIRST person EVER that has made a factual statement about the way N2O actually works. (refering to it "allowing more fuel to be burned") Sorry, I just got a little too excited and had to get that out. LOL BTW, I did want to mention though that even with an a/f gauge wether stock or wideband, they can be helpful, but are very useless for safety. An O2 sensor cycles very slowely compared to how quick N2O can lean a motor out doing permanent damage. The most important gauge IMO is an EGT (Exhaust Gas Temp.) These gauges have a sensor immediately outside of one of the exhaust ports and will give you an instant reading if your motor goes lean - letting you know to turn off the N20 immediately! You should also, do a full compression test on all of your cyclinders. If any 1 or more cyl's is low, do not use N20, you should also do a wet test and the same thing applies. If any one cyl is low after adding a few drops of oil, do not use it either. As far as the fuel system goes, a fuel pump is great, but won't necessarily help if you are using a dry system since it's relying on your car's injectors for its source of fuel. Your injectors can only flow so much (dependant on their size). At minimum you should purchase a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) This will allow you to adjust your fuel pressure higher than stock. They are inexpensive, and very easy to install. If your budget allows, a good set of RC Engineering injectors is a very good idea with N20. I have usually suggested 10% over stock for 50HP and below, and 15-20% over stock for a 50-100HP kit. Artichawk: Using nitrous is no different on an ATX than any other performance mod. Anything that increases HP will make added stress for your transmittion, I used nitrous on my Auto Accord for about a year with no problems, then all of the sudden one day, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear all basically shattered, there were chunks of metal everywhere. Amazingly, 1st gear seamed to be brand new! The one difference of N20 that you will have to be careful with is that it is "instant power". You will not want to use it right off the line because of the sudden shock, launch in 1st gear normally, then switch it on as soon as you shift into 2nd gear. You may also want to check into some upgraded parts if they are available. You may want to check with Level 10, there are a few other companies that also make automatic parts, but I can't think of them off hand.