FAQ - MOST OF YOUR 3L QUESTIONS ANSWERED

[NorCalCoug]

Using an Escape motor (2001, may vary for later years though unlikely)

You will use your stock Cougar alternator. CougarGT's how-to thread on doing the swap explains about cutting off an ear from the block to accomodate the Cougar alternator bracket.

In addition, there is a bushing that will have to be cut flush to fit, also explained in CougarGT's how-to guide.

When using 2.5L heads and ignition system, you will need to ENSURE the pulse wheel (spark timing wheel) is set onto the shaft with the key placed in the 2.5L mark, otherwise your timing will be off and the car will not start. I'm not 100% sure if you use a full 3L swap.

[DemonSVT]

IMPORTANT REBUILD INFORMATION ABOUT ROD BOLTS

The instructions on the Ford manuals, when pertaining to the 3L, do not have the extra 90 degree rotation for the rod bolts listed.

That is crucial for retaining torque of the "stretch" bolts!



All 2.5L instructions show the correct procedure and you should follow the 2.5L instructions anyway but if you were just looking at the 3L instructions thinking "the bottom end or whole engine is a 3L" then I could easily see making this mistake.


3L Instructions

Install the connecting rod caps and bolts.

~ Tighten the bolts in two stages.

~ Stage 1: Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

~ Stage 2: Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft).

That's it!


2.5L Instructions - The Correct Way

CAUTION:
When assembling the connecting rods and connecting rod caps, it is imperative that bearing slots and tangs be located on the same side of the connecting rods.

CAUTION:
Connecting rod bolts are tighten to yield and must not be reused.

Position the connecting rod cap on the appropriate connecting rod and alternately tighten the bolts in three stages as indicated.

~ Stage 1: 23 Nm

~ Stage 2: 43 Nm

~ Stage 3: 90 degrees


The rod bolts & connecting rods are the same parts for both engines.

MAKE SURE you use the 2.5L instructions.

[cougarpunk]

i am gettin my 3.0L escape engine within the next couple of months( probably 2001 or newer). what exactly will have to be done to get it to fit and installed. i have read all the fAQ's and is till need some info. like the specifics and in detail plezz. im not very mechanically inclined.

[Instigator]

Originally posted by: DemonSVT
IMPORTANT REBUILD INFORMATION ABOUT ROD BOLTS

The instructions on the Ford manuals, when pertaining to the 3L, do not have the extra 90 degree rotation for the rod bolts listed.

That is crucial for retaining torque of the "stretch" bolts!



All 2.5L instructions show the correct procedure and you should follow the 2.5L instructions anyway but if you were just looking at the 3L instructions thinking "the bottom end or whole engine is a 3L" then I could easily see making this mistake.


3L Instructions

Install the connecting rod caps and bolts.

~ Tighten the bolts in two stages.

~ Stage 1: Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

~ Stage 2: Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft).

That's it!


2.5L Instructions - The Correct Way

CAUTION:
When assembling the connecting rods and connecting rod caps, it is imperative that bearing slots and tangs be located on the same side of the connecting rods.

CAUTION:
Connecting rod bolts are tighten to yield and must not be reused.

Position the connecting rod cap on the appropriate connecting rod and alternately tighten the bolts in three stages as indicated.

~ Stage 1: 23 Nm

~ Stage 2: 43 Nm

~ Stage 3: 90 degrees


The rod bolts & connecting rods are the same parts for both engines.

MAKE SURE you use the 2.5L instructions.

so to make this clear:

tighten each rod bolt to 23 Nm, then tighten each one to 43 Nm, then turn each one 90 degrees @ 43 Nm?

[DemonSVT]

Originally posted by: Instigatorso to make this clear:

1. tighten each rod bolt to 23 Nm,
2. then tighten each one to 43 Nm,
3. then turn each one 90 degrees

An additional 90 degrees.
As in 1/4 turn more after step 1 & 2 are done in order and alternating bolts each step.

43Nm is a measure of resistance force. The resistance after step 2 does not matter. It's 90 degrees more.

[aussiemike]

Someone posted a detailed article on converting the 2.5 Duratec with a 3.0 block. We are doing this project with a '99 Sable 3.0 and will use the 2.5 SVT heads and other components from our Contour race car. The original poster gave some great info, but he also mentioned the need to plug "2 oil return holes" in the block. His pictures are not archived and we are not finding any such holes that might need to be blocked or plugged. Anyone have any input? Thanks aussiemike

[drunkenmonk24]

Ok, i havea request, mabye its been listed before somewhere and mabye you can give me a link, or post the info......... but can someone list a complete parts list you need to swap, buy, ex. to do the 3L swap to a 99 cougar..... i would like to keep the 3L oval port heads on....... also use some svt parts........
if someone could that would be a great help. .... Thanx for lookin and readin this.... Josh

its an ATX

[Aaron2336]

Yeah, I was wondering what parts I need for a hybrid swap for my 2000 cougar Atx...I was thinking of going SVT light, but I was thinking of just keeping the 2.5 block and getting some pnp heads...The SVt manifolds, though I think there's a LIM from SVt already on the 2000. Not sure. Need some better idea's.

[azbobbybooshay10]

Bumping this up to help ressurect all the un-stickied FAQ's.

[NorCalCoug]

Originally Posted by aussiemike

Someone posted a detailed article on converting the 2.5 Duratec with a 3.0 block. We are doing this project with a '99 Sable 3.0 and will use the 2.5 SVT heads and other components from our Contour race car. The original poster gave some great info, but he also mentioned the need to plug "2 oil return holes" in the block. His pictures are not archived and we are not finding any such holes that might need to be blocked or plugged. Anyone have any input? Thanks aussiemike

Once you place the 2.5L gasket on the block you'll see which holes need to be plugged. Thankfully, it won't be brain surgery to do it.