3L Port-Matching...

[aircougar1]

Hello. I figured that a few weeks ago I did a 3L port-Matched install for COOGAH, and decided to document some of the work i did, and try and answer some of the questions that some of you Cougar nuts have been asking about...

This 3L build is basically what I always do, despite a few differences in parts that a customer prefers (i.e. escape oil pan, SVT cams, Headers, etc...)

This is a 04 Sable 3L with about 22K miles on it. It has been Port-Matched to fit 2.5L LIM/UIMs, using Bugzuki Plates (made by Bugzuki of CEG, name is Paul Wyndham)...

Also I am showing some of the tools I use, the grinding of the motor mount to fit between the heads, and the cutting of the 2 ears for the 99-00 Alternator brackets...

ALSO, please excuse the dirty engine parts. We were on a time constraint, and didn't care much to worry about the appearance details of the build...

Here are the pics (and I will try and do this step by step as best as i can):

[aircougar1]

More pics:

[aircougar1]

and a few more:

[Beans]

Nice! I'll be needing this real soon

[AndrewM6097]

Thats awesome Greg. You do great work, and im sure this will help alot of people! And i see you finally got a real shop vac

[SHAKE_01Coog]

Your the man yet again. Can i pay you in ? awesome work

[aircougar1]

I do all of this in a few hours. The porting bit I use HELPS A LOT!!! It costs about $25 from EBAY, is about 6" in length which helps reach into the ports easily without hitting the drill on the heads... one bit lasted 10 motors

I start out by making sure the motor is sealed up so metal shavings won't end up inside the motor. the ports I use 2 blue Shop towels (one for each side of the port) in each port, and stuff them in there as far as I can, then use wheel bearing grease over the towels to catch the metal shavings... works really well. I turn the motor over on the engine stand after when removing the towels, and wipe down the ports of excess grease...

I bolt down the BugZuki plates next, then cut all of the injector valleys first using the carbide bit... Then I move on to port-matching each side of the ports... This can get very tiring and is hard on the hands. The drill is a high rpm Dewalt drill (about $50 from Home Depot) but is variable speed with how far you push in the trigger... being higher above the motor will help when porting, as leverage is a big factor. I am 6'3" tall and I try and stand on the legs of the engine stand to help make this process more comfortable. Each side of the port can take 10-20 minutes depending on how fluid your motions are... I run the bit in an up-and-down motion moving clockwise around the port as I remove enough material from each spot. Patience and a steady firm hand will make porting smoother.

After all of the ports are done, I go over them with rolled sand paper porting bits to smooth over any rough spots... you don't have to do this part at all, but i have been used to doing it, and its a quick 5 minute touch up...

ALSO, a big thing to have is the SHOP VAC handy at all times during porting!!!
I use it after every side of a port, to help keep it clean of metal shavings, as well as help keep a clear view on the entire port as I am working... vacuum out the ports, valley between the heads, and anywhere else you see extra shavings each time you finish a port. This helps keep your workspace clean, and keeping shavings away from your arms, clothes, shoes, etc...

I now clean the BugZuki plates of grease as well as the intake runners. Then use a even layer of Ultra Black to seal the plates to the heads, and bolt them back down to seal them tight.... I use an old set of LIM gaskets wrapped in shop towels after to cover up the ports from any added debris from working on the rest of the motor. Make sure to wipe off any extra sealant from the inside of the ports that will get squeezed out when bolting down the plates for the final time...

Now, remove the metal cover plate from the "breather" area between the heads. Install your 2.5L breather box onto the motor by sliding it through where the upper motor mount will go in... you MAY have to cut the bottom metal piece from the underneath of the breather box, as you might have one that is too deep to get in between the heads... just snip the four metal tabs holding that bottom metal piece to it, and you should be good to bolt it in...

Next is the upper Motor Mount. basically grind down the edges shown in the pics until the mount slides in without too much effort. DON"T try and FORCE it in there!!! The heads can crack if using force like a hammer to fit in in there... Just take it back out, grind more, and test fit again. its a GREAT idea to paint the engine mount after this BEFORE you bolt it down for good...
Chances are also that you may need to find your own bolts for the engine mount to bolt to the 3L... I have tons of bolts hanging around, so I don't have too much trouble, however, you might have to order them, or hit a hardware store...

ALTERNATOR ears... there are 2 pics of what needs to be trimmed off of the motor to fit a 99-00 ALT bracket. I use a recipricating saw and they come off easily... I recommend a nice long blade to reach those spots easier.

Now its time for Pulse Wheel swap, or cams if you are doing SVT cams... Remove the valve covers and timing cover to access the Pulse Wheel. You will see in the pics there is the wheel with the 3.0L mark on it. slide wheel off, rotate it to the 2.5L mark, and slide back on. Since we all use 2.5L timing covers, this HAS to be done regardless of the type of 3L swap you are attempting...

Now swap over cams, or reseal the timing/valve covers... When doing this make sure you use Ultra Black sealant at the 8 spots where the heads, oil pan, and 2 separate pieces of the block meet each other. this helps create a good seal that the timing cover seals may not be able to seal well enough. Don't skip this step, as you will get a leak...
Also, when putting the valve covers back on, you need sealant at the 4 spots where the timing cover meets the heads, and the 2 spots where the water pump/ bank 2 intake camshaft seal meets the head...

The 3L is now sealed up and completed.

There is a pic of the OIL Pressure Sender (sensor?) with the one white/red wire on it... Splice this into the stock Green wire with push-on connector for your earlier 99-00 Cougars... 01-02 Cougars will already have the correct connector on the stock harness...

Also, you will need to cut the Pilot bearing at the end of the crankshaft where the flywheel bolts up. cut it flush with the end of the crank, or try and remove it with the appropriate puller. I just cut it flush and call it a day.

I really hope this helps anyone wishing to attempt the PORT-MATCHING on their own. It seems like a very difficult task, but with a little patience, you can accomplish this in a weekend or so... I have done at least 12 motors like this since October, and I get a little faster each time. You will too!

GOOD LUCK, and please PM me with questions. Feel free to leave comments here.

Thanks!

Aircougar1

[aircougar1]

Damn, you guys posted before I could post my reply to the pics! HAHA!

Thanks guys, I really do hope this helps a lot of people. I have been wanting to contribute something valuable to the Forum itself, not just the physical work I do...

Maybe someday we can get video of my Porting... I do have 2 swaps lined up for July already

[fordrule]

doh i should have used ultra black. i used the hi-temp red rtv...awesome post greg. this should be added to the sticky or a sticky on its own

[aircougar1]

I've used that too, as well as the blue stuff, but they tend to leak over time... I learned that lesson a few years ago, thankfully on my own motors, ...