Different question about SVT UIM/TB

[CatMan]

Don't worry, I'm not wandering what parts I need or where to get them. My question is this: I'm looking at getting the SVT UIM/TB within a month or so. The thing is, I still have the stock intake. Is this going to have any effect on the UIM/TB? One of my friends said that I probably wouldn't see as much gains from the SVT stuff as I would if I had an aftermarket intake, but I'm not positive he knows what he's talking about. So do you guys think I should go ahead and get the SVT stuff, or should I get an intake first? I'd kind of like to get the SVT equipment as soon as possible just because I'm not sure when I'm going to have this much money again(it's hard to save up money as a full time college student working 25 hours a week). Thanks for the input!

[Furious1]

Get the SVT stuff. Then start savin for the intake. Considering the SVT stuff is worth twice as much, it shouldnt take you as long to save for the intake. But if you get the intake now and blow the rest of the money away...you get the point.

Besides, you'll get a few more horses and better throttle response out of the SVT stuff.

[MaStaMooN]

IVe had my stock intake on my SVT Upper/TB a couple of times. You wont feel a big drag untill you hit like 4500-5000 rpm.. then the car just chokes. And thats with a K&N drop in filter. I couldnt imagine it with the stock paper filter. And you dont get that deep, mean sound without an aftermarket intake!

[Grav1ty]

i got the svt uim and still stock tb and kinda modified airbox, with paper filter. i would suggest getting it now from bat due to the price and the possibilty that you wont get that price again. i did notice some gains, nothing drastic, though i believe it will be more once i get an intake and tb.

[sonza68]

I currently have my SVT upper and TB on with a stock intake (I am waiting for my intake to arrive) and I have noticed gains, especially in throttle response. I'd say og for it now while the price is good.

[mello88]

I thought about the same thing when I made my list of mods . This is another mod that sort of snowballs into an expensive mess:

1.) [original intent] SVT upper install
2.) Hmm.. Stock 57mm TB with a bigger uim? Install SVT TB.
3.) SVT TB is really a 60mm 3.0L unit, why not upgrade to a 65mm SOHC 4.6L unit
4.) Stock rubber boot connects to a 65mm (lets say) outside TB diameter. I'm upgrading to a 75mm outside diamter (2.6in to 3in = .4" diff!). This means the stock boot will not connect properly (just fitting the stock unit is a PITA, I couldn't imagine stretching it to fit a .4" bigger dia. TB! Gotta get an aftermarket intake now (KKM/SCA/etc)
5.) Aftermarket intake + SVT uim + 65mm TB == lots of flow, but the MAF is still stock and will most likely be the only restriction in the intake. While I'm going, get the 75mm Pro Flow unit
6.) Pro Flow is calibrated for 19lb/hr injectors, I'll either need the optimizer, or ....
7.) Some posts claim SVT UIM + 65mm TB loses power, runs lean, to correct I'll tune with an S-AFC

So starting from a $250 upper intake swap, it turned into a $250 uim, a $30 tb, $77 worth of brackets/cables, a $200 (or so) intake/filter, a $150 MAF, and a $300 tuning device! Basically this has turned into a $1000+ install, for (5hp uim, 1hp tb, 1hp maf, 10hp afc = 17hp = $59/hp) 17 hp. Yeah, that is a low estimate, but I'd much rather underestimate -- and only expect 17hp, but really get >=20hp -- than overestimate, and expect 30hp but end up with 17hp. Did I mention that this will require a couple visits to the dyno (at $65 per visit, that brings the cost of this project to > $1100 -- one visit for a baseline run, one for a tuning session with Mr. SAFC).

To answer your question -- I'd upgrade the stock rubber boot. Even if it does fit in your case, the pleats will be a restriction in the flow. Will it work fine with the stock rubber boot? Yeah, but don't expect as big of a gain compared to replacing everything. Just my opinion on it, I'd be interested to see how others approached this project.

[Draxas]

i am in your group Mello....

Now i need to get a larger MAF, new rubber tube (mine ripped trying to fit it over a 65mm TB), and of course the S-AFC.....

I think the S-AFC should be on everyones list that plans on doing I/H/E and SVT mods.... you ABSOLUTELY need to be able to tune the engine.......




Nikolas

[Ripple]

<< i am in your group Mello....

Now i need to get a larger MAF, new rubber tube (mine ripped trying to fit it over a 65mm TB), and of course the S-AFC.....

I think the S-AFC should be on everyones list that plans on doing I/H/E and SVT mods.... you ABSOLUTELY need to be able to tune the engine....... >>



Me three. I need to start saving money for the next set of mods or sell my g/f kidney to get the $$$

[AirWolf]

I'd go with selling the kidney...I've hear that one of those is worth a cool $20K or so on the black market! Good luck with convincing your G/F!

[mello88]

<< i am in your group Mello....

Now i need to get a larger MAF, new rubber tube (mine ripped trying to fit it over a 65mm TB), and of course the S-AFC.....

I think the S-AFC should be on everyones list that plans on doing I/H/E and SVT mods.... you ABSOLUTELY need to be able to tune the engine.......
>>



Glad I'm not the only one. Does it seem that most mods are this way though? Almost everything I've bought for the car has gone through an expensive session of "why would I remove/upgrade that part, and leave the other stock?".... Case in point? Suspension, exhaust, intake, body, audio...

Agreed about the S-afc, it's been shown on CEG to dyno a 10-15hp addition. That's not bad IMO, and if you figure it out, 300/15 is $20/hp, which beats to hell just about every other mod short of nitrous which comes in around $5-10/hp. Not to mention the added safety/protection from detonation due to a lean mix (or huge power loss due to 19pph injectors or something).