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Originally Posted by FastCougar
I'm hesitant to fit my DMD to the engine now due to problems dropping the engine in. IIRC, Dan, you had a problem with SVTPete's hybrid install because the DMD was too big. Question is ... how do your properly install a DMD AFTER fitting into the chassis ... you can't get the additional 90 degree turn on the bolt with the car inches off the ground ... so, what do I do?
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Use an air impact. It's never been an issue to buzz one on for me. I gave up on all that special crap with either damper. 250 ft-lb impact and its on there good but can still be removed.
I like how you build looks. Also funny how proud of your silver idler pulley. Hahah the funny thing is I've been doing an almost identical build of an engine right now for a guy in GA over the past 10 days....waiting on parts right now. BUt I used the same paint, cleaning process, and even pulled the idler pulley and tensioner for painting like you did. I too am very proud of the new paint on the tensioner and pulley. Only I used VHT on the black tensioner pulley.
Of course I cut all the ears while the parts were apart before cleaning though.
It takes very little time with a Sawzall and the metal cutting blade. I spent maybe 5 min on the crank, 8-10 min on the "offending ear" where the coolant lines go and 5 minutes each on the upper/lower ears where the alternator bracket goes. All very clean cuts too if I may say so. I even took a file and cleaned up the cuts on the engine so they look like stock.
So I'll have this guys engine back together in about 4hours after I get all the parts.
He's only the second person to get the whole Original Warmonger's race-ported heads. If you guys recall my old webpage I put up back in 2001 where I did all the head porting and such on my hybrid and then set down 217 wHP with stock pcm and no tuning...well like that.
Well there you go, your thread and I'm hijacking it. lol
Sorry