Quote:
no there is absolutely NO releaf mechanism whatsoever... zero. and it builds up a tremendous amount of pressure. that puts alot of stress on the wields [which are good wields but nothing I would gamble my engine on] and the hoses... something is going to break.
I'll post photos sometime this weekend but my WR tank is very bowed on top. previous owner had 1500 miles on it [and blew his engine], I had about 700 on it before I pulled it.
there is also no way to use the coolant level sensor [its a float valve with the float mechanism built into the stock shell], so that sensor hole in the tank is pointless, and you have to deal with the coolant light permanently being on.
also the tank doesnt have baffling on it... I dunno I could go on about this but when you break it down its a poor substitute for the stock one, and I didnt feel I needed to rehash this because its been covered lately in 2 other threads.
combine all this with adding a significant amount of power to the system and your asking for trouble.
[blackcoog, I love your work and your effort _and openness with sharing your buildup_ really is impressive. this has been my one and only complaint/concern... please dont take it as me trying to bust your balls]
|
After flushing my cooling system to get the gunk out the modified WR tank has worked perfectly. I have been driving it stock this whole time with the modified WR tank. I do agree a cap with pressure relief is needed I just need to find a source for the end the cap screws onto. The pressure relief is not something that should be used often though. It normally only comes into play when you are overheating. If I did put together a tank it would be from scratch not a WR tank. They should have used thicker aluminum with their tanks.
The piping is another issue. Who is willing to hack into their car for that? It was two 3.5" holes and widening of the windshield washer tank hole.